How To Install Bolt On Sub-Frame Connectors

the purpose of sub-frame connectors are to stiffen up the chassis,reducing unwanted flex,and give you more predictable handling.

before we start,i'm using BBK bolt in sub-frame connectors.these are much better than none at all.Weld in full length sub frame connectors are the #1 choice for sub frames.i chose the BBK's because i don't know how to weld yet,and i pefer to do as much work myself as i can.the BBK's can aslo be welded in,and at first i was going to have them welded after i bolted them up.i'll see how they feel first before i make my decision.

------------------------------TOOL'S NEEDED------------------------------------------------
1-set BBK bolt in sub-frame connectors W/seat supports(#BBK2543-brothersperformance.com.$129.99,about $155 shipped in california)
1-jack
4-jack stand's
1-drill
3-3/8 drill bit's
1-hacksaw
1-3/8 ratchet
1-1/2 ratchet
1-1/4 ratchet
1-22mm combo wrench
1-9/16 combo wrench
1-long 1/2 extension
1-small 3/8 extension
1-18mm,1/2 deep socket
1-1/2,3/8 deep socket
1-11/16,3/8 socket
1-9/16,3/8 deep socket
1-9/16,3/8 standard socket
1-10mm,1/4 socket
1-small plier
1-small block of wood


STEP #1.
raise car,support on jack stands as level as possible with the suspension loaded.up front,place stand under control arm,at the spring pocket.


at rear,under axle tube as far at the end as you can get it.


should be level with the ground at these point's(arrow's.i measured at these point's,and from the ground to the top of the wheel opening at both front and rear,before and after install.i got all the same measurement's after i was done,so i ASSUME this is how your supposed to level everything.).


STEP #2.
we'll need to unbolt the cat back exhaust to make room for the drill.were just going to unbolt everything and let it hang there,not totally remove the cat back.using the 3/8 ratchet,and 9/16 deep socket,remove the four nut's connecting the cat back to the h-pipe.


next disconnect it from it's rubber hanger,remove the little washer thingy with small plier,and slide out of hanger.


STEP #3.
remove the h-pipe.first,with 1/4 ratchet and 10mm socket,loosen clamp at the air tube.


disconnect O2 sensors at both sides.(there are only two)


now with 22mm wrench,remove passanger side O2 sensor.


remove the four 18 mm nuts that connect the h-pipe to the headers.use your 1/2 ratchet,long extension,and 18 mm deep socket.disconnect rubber hangers at tranny crossmember.(passanger side shown,same for other side)
***one of my nut's was frozen up,so i could not remove the h-pipe.i got it loose enough to move the h-pipe around.


STEP #4.
DRIVERS SIDE FRONT sub-frame install.
using two 11/16 nylon lock nut's and your 3/8 ratchet w/11/16 socket,place sub frame connector on car,attaching at the seat support.snug nut's up.


with slanted side to front of car.Drill holes,front first
A.with your jack and a small block of wood,apply pressure from below to bring sub frame connector as close to the frame as possible.
B.with the 3/8 drill bit.drill first hole,then place bolt in first hole.drill second hole.


C.now from under car.drill out the holes on the other side.(sorry,no pic)
D.after all hole's are drilled,using supplied hardware.place large washer on bolt,slide bolt in from outside the frame rail,place split lock washer first,followed by the nut.tighten everything up using your 3/8 ratchet,9/16 standard socket,and 9/16 wrench.thats it for the front,lets move to the rear.


STEP #5.
DRIVERS SIDE REAR.
same procedure as front.
A.place jack w/wood under sub frame connector,apply pressure.
B.using drill w/3/8 bit,drill out the two outer holes.go slow and apply even,medium pressure.there's a lot of metal to go through here.take your time.change drill bit as necessary.
***you will be drilling at an angle,it's O.K.when we drill the other holes from under the car,use the drill to line up all the holes.


C.from under car,drill inner holes.with drill,go all the way through to outer holes to clean them up and line up the holes.


D.install bolt's.from outside frame rail,slide large washer onto bolt,insert in hole,place split lock washer on bolt,finally the nut.with 3/8 ratchet,9/6 standard socket and 9/16 wrench,tighten everything up.


E.with hacksaw,cut off excess threaded portion of bolt,as you can see it's a tight fit(in hindsight,i guess i could have installed the bolt in the other direction and skipped this step)


STEP #6.
PASSANGER SIDE sub frame install.
***********repeat drivers side procedures for passanger side************

STEP #7.
after passanger side sub frame connector is all buttoned up,reinstall h-pipe.snug up four,18 mm nuts,reconnect h-pipe to rubber hangers at tranny crossmember.tighten up the four,18 mm nut's


connect air tube,tighten 10 mm nut at clamp.


reinstall passanger side O2 sensor.tighten with 22 mm wrench.


reconnect both O2 sensors.


reconnect your cat back,snug up the four 9/16 nut's,but dont tighten yet.


place cat back in rubber hanger,reinstall the washer thingy.


adjust your tailpipes.make sure they are even at the bumper.also ensure they are not touching the body anywhere under the car.

tighten up cat back to h-pipe nut's

go over everything,make sure every thing is properly connected

tighten up all sub-frame connectors bolts.

STEP #8.
lower car.that's it.when i drove the car home,it felt much more solid.also did not creak when making turns.

here are some pic's of everything all buttoned up.

on the ground.


pic's of some up coming projects.i'll try to take pic's if i'm not too lazy.

Exlporer intake.soaking in engine degreaser,getting ready for a scrub down.


oooo,shiny.
Mishimoto radiator,manual(#80201,94-95 GT/V6/COBRA).$225,shipped.Americanmuscle.com


Goodyear.upper(#62149,$10.99),lower(#62150,$10.99),and by-pass hose(#63726,$15.99)Autozone.not normally stocked.two days from time ordered,delivered to store.

GTA_V6_Mustang,my plan is to install the intake when the radiator goes in,need to get an intake elbow first.as for the sub frame's,it's a very noticable improvment.no more sqweak's and creak's when i turn to pull into the parking lot of my apt complex.if i have any problem's with them,i'll be sure to report back ASAP.

Mr. Hawver,as stated in my post,i'm well aware that weld in full length sub frame connector's are top's.i've looked into the pro's and con's of bolt in connector's.bottom line is i pefer to do the work myself.i think this was a good little project to undertake.i like to gain knowledge and experiance with a particular part.that way i can help somebody out with my first hand info on how a part performed or did not perform and not just speculate.when i learn how to weld,out come's the bolt in's and in go the weld in's

here's an update.i've been driving mostly around the city.rough roads and lots of bumps and pot holes.i went for a couple of drives in the foothills,near the lake i always go to.has some pretty twisty roads.the car held the road alot better,stayed very flat and level through the turns.i could carry more speed through the turns without the car feeling like it would roll over.overall the car feels more planted.(the roads i drive i'm very familiar with.though i was driving at a bit higher rate of speed,i was very cautious at turns and around other traffic,i'm always aware of others in public and will not take unnecessary risks-be careful when driving or testing your Mustang on public streets)

car still feels much better than before the sub frames.the ride is solid,still no creaking into turns like before.no poping,rattling or squeaking from the sub frames.i'll try to get under the car this weekend to check all bolts for any abnormal wear and tear.

hissin50-thank's

black95gts-not sure,have not tried.i just used a regular 3/8 bit.

bullitt95-sorry i can't.it's already in the car.

prokiller-i took only the passanger side o2 sensor out.it was in the way of one of the h-pipe-to-header nuts

carnut-i just like to do the work myself.when i learn how to weld,i'll take these out and put in the MM full lengths.

here's a little update.since i installed these connectors,the passanger side muffler would rattle against the rear connector bolts.

i put the bolts in the wrong wayand was too lazy to get back under there and turn them around.

the nut is too thick,that's why the muffler would rattle against it,as you can see.

here's where it rubbed against the muffler.

i took the bolt's out and turned them around.first i checked them for any abnormal wear.they looked good as you can see.

i checked the hole's to see if they were elongated,they were not.the bolt still fit snug.


reinstalled them with the head of the bolts on the inside of the frame rail.

drove home after and no rattle