How to mount an Edelbrock Cable Plate Kit?

[captainamazeo]

In attempting to correct an annoying (to say the least) issue where my Mustang slams into lower gears, I've narrowed it down to the previous owner having cheaped-out by not purchasing a Throttle Lever Adapter Kit when he installed an Edelbrock carb onto the car which has an automatic transmission.

I've also found that the return spring's mounted in the wrong location which also needs to be fixed.

I've since purchased said Adapter kit (#1483) and the Throttle Cable Plate Kit (#1390) to go on the 302 engine I have. The Plate Kit doesn't come with any instructions and I haven't been able to figure out where it's supposed to mount beyond what it says on Edelbrock's page which says that it "repositions stock throttle cable bracket to align with Edelbrock carb throttle arm."

Here's an older picture of that side of the carb. Also one from a slightly different angle.


Does anyone have any advice for me?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

 

[68RCodeConv]

OK, I see you have a 69-73 Mustang with an accelerator cable and auto kickdown rod.

I know you don't want to hear this but the Edelbrock adapter sucks. It is basically an add-on part that changes all your accelerator linkage geometry and causes the kickdown rod to interfere with the bottom of the air cleaner. When I installed in on my 73 I had to (1) put a spacer under the carb for more air cleaner clearance, and (2) build a custom bracket to relocate the throttle cable bracket so that the cable lined up properly with the new (wider) mounting point.

I eventually junked it (sold it on ebay, actually) and got a Lokar cable kickdown kit. Very easy to install and very easy to adjust.

 

[180 Out]

It looks to me like the PO has the right idea. I wonder if that home made lever extender doesn't rotate, though. For my '70 351C/FMX I made my own extender out of aluminum L-bar and I found it rotated. So I drilled a small second hole -- like 1/8" -- through the kickdown lever and the extender, to put a sheet metal screw through them to hold it stiff.

I'll take some pix and add them to this thread.

I think if the kickdown lever is getting pulled forward at less than WOT, that would cause the unwanted downshifts you mentioned.

 

[180 Out]

Here are some pix of the Edelbrock setup on my '70 Cougar's 351 Cleveland with FMX:

This one shows the "Ford AT" adapter that Edelbrock sells. It also shows the kickdown lever extender that I made out of "L" shaped aluminum bar stock from the hardware store. I trimmed one leg of th L almost all the way off:

This one shows the Spectre brand throttle cable bracket I got at the local Kragens. I used chrome bolts to bolt it to another piece of that same L bar stock. This extension is needed to get the cable mounting point out to where it needs to be to hook up to the Edelbrock "Ford AT" adaptor.

This shows the L stock at the carb's mounting flange. I used an extra stud -- the carb and my Ebok intake have extra holes for a Quadrajet pattern -- to keep the extension from rotating.

This side view shows (at least I hope it does) the set screw that I added to the kidkdown lever/bar stock juncture, to keep the extension from rotating. The set screw is right at the line where the sunlight is hitting. You're looking at the pointed end of the screw. The screw head is facing the carb: