I figured I would document how I did this in case it helps someone. I am concentrating on the control arms which can cause the most aggravation to remove because of the control arm bushing bolts.
Spray all control arm retention bolts (and all other bolts) a couple of times over at least a one week period using Kroil. Spray not only the head and nut but also the crack between the bushing and the chassis/differential so the oil can penetrate between the metal tube in the bushing and the screw.
If working on the ground raise the car an additional 12 inches in front of the rear tire to provide adequate room to work. Make sure after supporting you can access both sides of the lower control arm front bolt. Make sure the car is on level, solid ground and supported safely before you go under it
Remove all parts attached to the differential and the control arms. Includes the brake line where the rubber hose attached to the chassis, emergency brake cables, antilock brake sensors, sway bar, quad shocks, drive shaft etc.
Remove the lower shock mounts and pull out the springs to remove the load from the control arm bolts.
Turn the head of the control arm bushing bolts, not the nut. You have a better chance of breaking the bolt loose from the bushings metal tube when rusted if you do it this way. You will need 1 each of 6 point, 18 and 19mm sockets and 12 point closed end wrenches.
It will be a easier to remove the differential before loosening the control arm to chassis bolts. Once the differential is out you have easy access to them especially if you do not have a lift.
Loosen all 4 control arm to differential bolts but do not completely remove. Support rear end under casting. When you remove upper control arm bolts, it will want to rotate forward. Then remove lower bolts to remove differential from car. If one of the lower arm to differential bolts is frozen in the metal tube, remove the sheet metal brake dust shield, put the nut temporarily back on, hit the nut to drive the bolt through with a 2.5 pound hammer.
To remove front lower control arm bolts you will need to remove the mufflers by unbolting the front flange then you can pull the exhaust from the car. Use an air gun or long breaker bar on lower control arm bolts. To spin the heads of the upper control arm chassis bolts you will need a long breaker bar because the air gun will not fit.
They show a number of ways to remove the bolts if they are rusted into the metal tubes on YouTube. Most promising one is use a Sawzall to cut the bolt between the chassis/differential and bushing. You will be cutting through hardened steel bolts so buy a few bi-metal cutting blades for the saw.
Inspect the chassis where the control arms mount looking for cracks etc.
Took about 6 hours to remove the differential and control arms. I did not run into major issues.
Spray all control arm retention bolts (and all other bolts) a couple of times over at least a one week period using Kroil. Spray not only the head and nut but also the crack between the bushing and the chassis/differential so the oil can penetrate between the metal tube in the bushing and the screw.
If working on the ground raise the car an additional 12 inches in front of the rear tire to provide adequate room to work. Make sure after supporting you can access both sides of the lower control arm front bolt. Make sure the car is on level, solid ground and supported safely before you go under it
Remove all parts attached to the differential and the control arms. Includes the brake line where the rubber hose attached to the chassis, emergency brake cables, antilock brake sensors, sway bar, quad shocks, drive shaft etc.
Remove the lower shock mounts and pull out the springs to remove the load from the control arm bolts.
Turn the head of the control arm bushing bolts, not the nut. You have a better chance of breaking the bolt loose from the bushings metal tube when rusted if you do it this way. You will need 1 each of 6 point, 18 and 19mm sockets and 12 point closed end wrenches.
It will be a easier to remove the differential before loosening the control arm to chassis bolts. Once the differential is out you have easy access to them especially if you do not have a lift.
Loosen all 4 control arm to differential bolts but do not completely remove. Support rear end under casting. When you remove upper control arm bolts, it will want to rotate forward. Then remove lower bolts to remove differential from car. If one of the lower arm to differential bolts is frozen in the metal tube, remove the sheet metal brake dust shield, put the nut temporarily back on, hit the nut to drive the bolt through with a 2.5 pound hammer.
To remove front lower control arm bolts you will need to remove the mufflers by unbolting the front flange then you can pull the exhaust from the car. Use an air gun or long breaker bar on lower control arm bolts. To spin the heads of the upper control arm chassis bolts you will need a long breaker bar because the air gun will not fit.
They show a number of ways to remove the bolts if they are rusted into the metal tubes on YouTube. Most promising one is use a Sawzall to cut the bolt between the chassis/differential and bushing. You will be cutting through hardened steel bolts so buy a few bi-metal cutting blades for the saw.
Inspect the chassis where the control arms mount looking for cracks etc.
Took about 6 hours to remove the differential and control arms. I did not run into major issues.
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