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Engine How To Replace Heater Water Supply Tube Assembly - '88 Lx - 5.0

  • Thread starter Thread starter Spyky3
  • Start date Start date Sep 26, 2012

Spyky3

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Sep 26, 2012
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Sep 26, 2012
#1
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #1
The top tube of the back end of this heater assembly is corroded, need to replace. How do you remove the front portion (~1 inch) that is screw into intake manifold? Do you take out the intake manifold to unscrew this tube assembly? -Thxs!
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Sep 26, 2012
#2
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #2
The tube is hiding the fact that there's a nut/fitting at the bottom of the 6-sided fitting, which screws into the intake. You don't have to remove the lower intake to get thing off, but you do need a big-ass wrench. I think it's 1-inch or 1-1/8.
 
Reactions: 95Vert383AOD

95Vert383AOD

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Jun 10, 2008
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Sep 26, 2012
#3
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #3
You dont have to take the manifold out. Unscrew it by the lower 6 sided nut that sits right against the manifold..."Lefty Loosie" And there is 1 more nut towards the back of the intake.
 

Spyky3

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Sep 26, 2012
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#4
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #4
Thxs for the quick responses MFE92 & 95Vert383AOD... Sounds easy enough! Glad dont have to take the intake manifold off... less work!
 

gearheadboy

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Jan 15, 2003
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Sep 26, 2012
#5
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #5
While we are on the topic of this tube, how did you guys block the small coolant port where the coolant goes to the throttle body? Mine is unhooked and plugged with a rubber vacuum cap but they rot fast and I have replaced it like 3 times. I'm about to weld it shut.
 

jcgafford

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Jan 7, 2012
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Sep 26, 2012
#6
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #6
gearheadboy said:
While we are on the topic of this tube, how did you guys block the small coolant port where the coolant goes to the throttle body? Mine is unhooked and plugged with a rubber vacuum cap but they rot fast and I have replaced it like 3 times. I'm about to weld it shut.
Click to expand...
i've been told here that that is not a good idea and does nothing for performance. my car had it done on purchase and it was part of the actual hose that fits there cut to allow room for a bolt to go inside and a hose clamp to hold it.
 

gearheadboy

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#7
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #7
I have no place to connect it. The spacer is gone. I have a BBK SSI with EGR on the back and a BBK throttle body.
 

jcgafford

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#8
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #8
gearheadboy said:
I have no place to connect it. The spacer is gone. I have a BBK SSI with EGR on the back and a BBK throttle body.
Click to expand...
so it is just the two tubes that connect to the spacer kinda hanging out in space?
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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Sep 26, 2012
#9
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #9
theyre likely connected together
 

gearheadboy

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#10
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #10
Just the one port on the tube pictured above. No place to hook the hose.
 

jcgafford

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#11
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #11
gearheadboy said:
Just the one port on the tube pictured above. No place to hook the hose.
Click to expand...
oh! gotcha. well the tube with the bolt in it would work... not pretty but probably the cheapest with the option of reusing it at a later date if you ever decide to go back to a spacer with coolant lines.
 

aar0s

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Dec 20, 1998
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Sep 26, 2012
#12
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #12
Thats what i did for years with my cobra intake, ran a big ass bolt in the hose and clamped it with a hose clamp. A buddy of mine had a local guy weld his over and grind it smooth, coat of high temp and it looked stock.
And as far as the coolant flowing though the EGR being a good idea, at some point even Ford decided that it wasn't necessary, no fittings for it on the cobra intake. Just something you can do to clean things up a little.
 

gearheadboy

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#13
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #13
Ya, I wanted cleaner than the bolt in hose look, lol. I think I'll weld it. I am gonna change intakes one of these days though and will probably want it open.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
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#14
  • Sep 26, 2012
  • #14
could always fill it with weld and drill it out later, if the metal survives the heat.
 

ReefBlueHatch

Active Member
Jan 12, 2010
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Sep 27, 2012
#15
  • Sep 27, 2012
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I had mine welded shut and then painted it black. Looks and works fine.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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#16
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  • #16
jb weld that sucker
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#17
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #17
Why not run a hose from there to the other hose barb on manifold?
 

gearheadboy

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#18
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #18
7991LXnSHO said:
Why not run a hose from there to the other hose barb on manifold?
Click to expand...
Is no barb on manifold. One hole. Just the tube.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#19
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #19
Did you remove the brass barb and use a solid brass plug to replace it on your maniofold? It was where the back side of the spacer connected to and it is supposed to be in the back passenger corner of the manifold. A bypass hose for the gone egr/throttle plate would have been simple and slick. If you eliminated the other fitting, I am sorry. Just vac caps stink for this purpose and like to leak. An ugly bolt in a chunk of hose with a couple of clamps would work better than a vac cap.
 
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