hydraulic clucth
- Thread starter 67 Stang man
- Start date
zookeeper
Founding Member
For $624.99 I hope that MDL kit works wonderfully. I have about $70 in my homemade system and it works perfectly. I used an '06 Fushion master cylinder ($24.99), a Toyota pickup slave cylinder ($30) and had a line made for $25 at the local Motion and Flow hydraulic shop. I made the brackets myself (free) and it's lived nicely for that past 12 years without leaking or failing. Your money, but there's easier ways than throwing loads of money at a problem, hoping it works better than the last parts you bought from the exact same vendor.
I have the cable kit in a 65 stang and it is light feeling and been rock solid reliable for 12 yrs
Makes me wonder if something else is going on like the aluminum throw out bearing retainer galling in which case the hydraulic set up won't help.
Makes me wonder if something else is going on like the aluminum throw out bearing retainer galling in which case the hydraulic set up won't help.
zookeeper
Founding Member
No, but I'll take some pics and post them up. I did find a internet article that some guy did his almost how I did, but I didn't have the money he did, lol His setup cost about $200 and used sand rail stuff. Here's some basics about mine:
- Both the slave cylinder and the master cylinder need to be matched in size, that way you get a 1 to 1 ratio. I chose the 2006 Fusion master cylinder (3/4" bore) due to it's outlet location (straight down) to make routing a hose easier. Lots of them come out the passenger side and interfere with the brake master cylinder.
- I searched parts descriptions online and found a Toyota slave cylinder with the same size bore and as close to a 1" stroke as possible.
- The master cylinder is mounted right where the original clutch rod exits the firewall. I purchased a hiem joint and and fabbed a rod to connect the master to the pedal. I fabbed a simple bracket to mount the slave to the bell housing, making sure to use a steel backing plate inside the aluminum bellhousing.
- Rather than drill the clutch release arm, I bolted a block to the arm and used another hiem joint for smoother action.
- That's really it. I used drill rod for both rods and it hasn't bent or failed, since it threads nicely and is harder than mild steel.
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
I can't speak to the MDL kit, but I use the Mcleod kit:
www.speedwaymotors.com
It works great...but its a kit intended for a hydraulic TOB. You could use it with a conventional external slave if you wanted I guess, but internal hydraulic TOBs are far superior to external slaves(they always have a perfectly straight throw, whereas external slaves always arc the pushrod because of the clutch fork travel, causing premature failure)
McLeod 1431001 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kit, 1964-1966 Mustang
It works great...but its a kit intended for a hydraulic TOB. You could use it with a conventional external slave if you wanted I guess, but internal hydraulic TOBs are far superior to external slaves(they always have a perfectly straight throw, whereas external slaves always arc the pushrod because of the clutch fork travel, causing premature failure)
zookeeper
Founding Member
Sorry, I never did. The car is currently in storage since I work out of town these days. I'll do my best to get some pics this weekend and post them. It's a really simple setup that works great.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
I noticed the same old thread. Did you ever get it fixed? What kind of pounds are you running on the pressure plate? Is it in other words a racing clutch? Does it have an over center spring on the pedal assembly. Not sure about your setup but the cable must be messed up frayed or otherwise the geometry is wrong
