I had thought about that. I thought about placing the bottle in a bag or just standing it upright in order to keep any water away from the nozzle or gauge area. I wasn't sure if that was a good idea, but you pretty much confirmed it's good, lol. Thank you.
I don't lay mine over on its side though. Just put it in there upright and it will warm up just fine. I usually do this before I head to the track. That way my bottle warmer doesn't have to work as hard to heat up a cold bottle. It just has to maintain the temperature, which is much easier for a bottle heater to do. I usually heat it up to about 12-1300 psi before I take it out of the water.
Hmm... maybe my underpowered heater will keep the bottle warm if I heat it up first, lol.
1,100-1,200 isn't too much pressure in the bottle? I know that's in the red on the gauges... didn't know if that's because it was too much for the bottle, or too much for the nitrous solenoid, or if it's just a general guideline.
Basically, the higher the psi the more nitrous that will be injected. So if your psi is 1200, you run the risk of running very lean because you will actually be injecting more nitrous than your jet is calibrated for. I believe HSW's jets are setup for ~950 psi. Also, once you open the bottle your psi will drop a bit also. Once you have a purge kit, you can bleed off the excess psi if you wish.
My solenoids will not open if my psi is much over 1100. Most brand solenoids are designed that way.
Yeah running lean and detonation are two big things I am trying to avoid! lol.
I spoke with Diablosport about the "Factory Performance" tune. It is the "original backup" tune, just in a tuneable version. This is great because I can adjust the fuel curves, retard the timing, and adjust for my gears WITHOUT running the Performance tune, which has advanced timing built in to the tune... big no no. It could be datalogged and then remove timing accordingly, but I feel a lot better about using the stock tune and pulling timing.
So now I am waiting to hear back from our local speed shop about dyno rates so I can get this heap on the rollers and see where my A/F ratios are at. I am eager to get the 100 jets in, but I refuse to go over the 75 shot before putting it on the dyno.
I'm worried that there's going to be a lean spike, as is fairly common with a wet kit. however, I am thinking of switching my nitrous line that runs from the solenoid to the plate, with the fuel line that runs from the rail adapter to the solenoid. The short nitrous line will reach from the fuel adapter to the solenoid, and it will cut out quite a few inches of fuel line from the rail to the solenoid, and add quite a few inches from the nitrous solenoid to the plate. Hopefully that would help some.
Yeah, a shorter fuel line will help a bit with a lean spike issue. Here is a site where you can get shorter lines with the correct color coding for the fuel and nitrous. They can even custom build some lines if you want.