I Can't Take It Anymore Somebody Help Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Guys I swear I am retarded or something. I cannot seem to get my car started. I have fuel and spark, and the firing order is correct. The problem is that I cannot seem to stab the distributor properly. Are there any tips to doing this that will help me get it ready to go. I had it set at perfect TDC when I put in the new oil pump, but unfortunately it was 180 degrees off(I assume this because my mighty demon was misting gas and smoke out of the top of the idle air bleeds which is the blow out protection). So now I have been trying my ass of to get this thing right. I have gotten close to the point where I have it touching the water neck and it is ready to start, but can't breathe on its on without the starter. I have tried moving it a tooth or two clockwise but every damn time I do that it just flatlines and I don't even get little chugs. Someone explain this to me like you would a child, I have searched the threads over and over again but cannot seem to get it right. Are the high points where the spark makes contact withthe points and goes to the plugs? If I get it set at perfect 0 should it be on the #1 cylinder high point? I usually get the teeth to mesh and then crank the engine by hand to get it to go down on the oil pump shaft. It has been really chapping my balls for the last two days. HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!!!!!

 

[old_blue]

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but if you are cranking the engine by hand to get the dizzy to fall in then you are going to be off. You should be able to turn the oil pump with a long screw driver if the squared rod that sits in the oil pump isnt in there. If it is y ou can get a magnet to pull it out. Of course I haven't done this in a long time so I might be totally wrong. On a chevy it is a lot easier as the shaft on the dizzy sits directly on top of the oil pump. there is no separate rod connecting the two so turning the oil pump is easier. hope this helps. if not then just forget I said anything

 

[troyGT03]

okay...static timing 101- pull the coil wire, pull the #1 spark plug, put finger to cover spark plug hole on #1 cyl and have somebody bump the starter with the key(if you dont have a remote starter tool) , when the #1 cyl pushes air(compresion stroke) on your finger-stop. insert distributor pointed at #1 on dist cap. most caps are marked. 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 is firing order fora ho motor. this will get it running. then use timing light to tune. hope this helps.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Well I got her started apparently the idle circuit was closed heh heh..... Anyway now I have a new problem I can't time it. I have the timing marker set and I have verified TDC but for some reason the timing light shows like 50 degrees timing which we all know is not possible. What could cause these miscalculations? And it dies if it goes any lower.

 

[HISSIN50]

make sure your balancer did not spin. That would have made finding TDC a real chore.

good luck.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Oh its a brand new balancer from summit. I have also verified TDC its this new problem that is chapping my balls nowl

 

[HISSIN50]

ok, next thing (it has happened to me, so dont take this the wrong way). Are you sure your timing light's advance mechanism (if it has one) is not turned up?

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Doesn't have one.... I also have the vacuum advance unhooked to help eliminate some possibilities.

 

[MatthewP]

If you are using a Pro Products balancer with several sets of timing marks you could be reading the wrong marks. Also, are you positive you have the light hooked up to plug #1?

-Matthew

 

[iapexl8r]

ford had two different style timing pointers. your best bet is to get #1 cyl at 0 deg tdc. you can do this by putting #1 cyl on the compression stroke. then insert(when you do this remove coil wire) a pencil, eraser side into #1 cyl and touch the piston. turn the engine over with a breakerbar and socket on the dampner bolt. this will cause the piston to move either up or down this movement will be felt at the pencil. play with it untill you find the top (tdc top dead center). when you find the top look at your timing mark and that will be 0 deg tdc( no matter what it reads). now to time it, it would be easier to use a timing light that will advance. then you can set the advance on the timing light to 10deg or what ever you want the timing set at and shoot for what you now know as 0 deg tdc. Chris

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

I have done all that, and the piston lined up with 0 degrees on the correct timing mark set. I also verified that it was the correct timing pointer and set visually from underneath with the oil pan off when I was putting in the oil pump. I also made sure that it wasn't 180 degrees out by sticking my finger in there and cranking till it got blown off. So we should be set, I am going to be getting a piston stop today just to confirm TDC one more time accurately so we can cross that off the list.

 

[mustang-a-holic]

Is the spout in? Yank the spout if electronic ignition.

36-50 deg. sounds like spout is in.

Neve rmind noticed a 69 mach 1....me stupid.

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Anyother ideas?