i DON'T want to buy a 2.3 turbo

[Superhereaux]

thought that might get some attention
(skip to the end for question)

i've read alot of posts of people asking about turbo'ing an n/a block. the same answer always comes up. buy a turbo engine for "around $200" at any local junkyard (seeing as how abundant they seem to be) and drop it in. easy right?

i want to get an 87-93 2.3 coupe and put a turbo on it. one difference with me is i won't be on as much of a "budget" as most of these guys seem to be. i know speed costs money. i'm planning on buying forged pistons/internals, upgraded fuel/elec. systems, moderate headwork, etc. all on the n/a block. i'll also be able to get my hands on some volvo turbos, intercoolers and other parts pretty soon (i'll be a volvo tech in 5 months)

i'd rather build the engine myself, knowing it'll be in good shape with 0 miles. if i drop in a used tc engine i don't know it's history, whether or not it's been abused or neglected. if i do somehow manage to get my hands on a turbo block i'll be ripping it apart anyway. the suspension, brakes and drivetrain will all be upgraded probably way before the engine so that aspect has been taken care of. in other words this won't be a weekend buildup.

all that typing to ask one question. even though i'm getting most everything on the engine aftermarket, do i still need to get a turbo block? is it all that different from the n/a?

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

thought that might get some attention
(skip to the end for question)

i've read alot of posts of people asking about turbo'ing an n/a block. the same answer always comes up. buy a turbo engine for "around $200" at any local junkyard (seeing as how abundant they seem to be) and drop it in. easy right?

i want to get an 87-93 2.3 coupe and put a turbo on it. one difference with me is i won't be on as much of a "budget" as most of these guys seem to be. i know speed costs money. i'm planning on buying forged pistons/internals, upgraded fuel/elec. systems, moderate headwork, etc. all on the n/a block. i'll also be able to get my hands on some volvo turbos, intercoolers and other parts pretty soon (i'll be a volvo tech in 5 months)

i'd rather build the engine myself, knowing it'll be in good shape with 0 miles. if i drop in a used tc engine i don't know it's history, whether or not it's been abused or neglected. if i do somehow manage to get my hands on a turbo block i'll be ripping it apart anyway. the suspension, brakes and drivetrain will all be upgraded probably way before the engine so that aspect has been taken care of. in other words this won't be a weekend buildup.

all that typing to ask one question. even though i'm getting most everything on the engine aftermarket, do i still need to get a turbo block? is it all that different from the n/a?

I would, turbo blocks have forged internals, saves you money by not having to buy forged pistons. Also the turbo head is a different compression ratio. It is far cheaper do rebuild a junkyard turbo block, then to turboize a NA block.

Dr.

 

[evintho]

AFAIK, the only difference in the bare blocks is the turbo block has a hole for the turbo oil drain and the n/a block doesn't. You can easily fab up a drain line to the pan. Sounds like your buying aftermarket forged pistons anyway, so that's covered. The crank and rods are cast in both motors, not forged steel. Even if they were, you wouldn't need them unless you were revving 8500+!

The head's a different story. Turbo heads have the better combustion chambers. However, finding an uncracked turbo head is like finding the holy grail, pretty much ain't gonna happen! An early 70's head is oval port but will have the same combustion chamber (still hard to find), or spend some $$ and have the n/a head worked.

Another way is to check the 'for sale' forum over at www.turboford.org. Every now and then someone sells a motor that's been worked and never run. That's how I got my loaded shortblock built by a prominent race shop.

 

[RustBucket]

Late model Lima blocks have smaller main journals as well. I don't remember the model year it started, but I think it may have been 89 when the DIS dual plug motors started showing up in Rangers. Bigger mains is something to consider when building one of these motors for high perf applications.

 

[mr_woodster]

AFAIK, the only difference in the bare blocks is the turbo block has a hole for the turbo oil drain and the n/a block doesn't. You can easily fab up a drain line to the pan. Sounds like your buying aftermarket forged pistons anyway, so that's covered. The crank and rods are cast in both motors, not forged steel. Even if they were, you wouldn't need them unless you were revving 8500+!

The head's a different story. Turbo heads have the better combustion chambers. However, finding an uncracked turbo head is like finding the holy grail, pretty much ain't gonna happen! An early 70's head is oval port but will have the same combustion chamber (still hard to find), or spend some $$ and have the n/a head worked.

Not exactly true. The Turbo block is known to have a higher nickle content and therefore stronger than an N/a block. Like mentioned , it has an oil return boss in it (unlike a n/a).
The rods and crank are not forged, but the rods do seem to be the weak link...ask Bhuff (he isnt turning 8.5k either)

Heads:
The turbo motor's head is differnt in a few ways.
A: exhuast valves and seats are hardend (so they dont melt !)
B: combustion chamber doesnt have a center divider between the valves(helps lower the compression)

Like mentioned, 2.3 pintos and some early model 2.3 mustangs (non-efi) came with oval port heads, which share the same combustion chamber design. That is what i ended up using, had hardend seats and SS valves put in it, works great.

Either way you can make a n/a work, with enough money anything would work. Like stated, the only one i can think of that has a n/a block with a forged/turbo setup is Bhuff , may want to pm about it.

 

[One Wicked SVT]

We blew up a N/A engine with a T3 strapped onto it.


We made a junkyard kit in a few hours.

Ran GREAT actually up to 6psi for a few months.

We blew it at 15psi revving @ 6k.

He made a bunch of checkvalves and what not, he also locked the timing(distributor model).

 

[slow2.3]

thought that might get some attention
(skip to the end for question)

i've read alot of posts of people asking about turbo'ing an n/a block. the same answer always comes up. buy a turbo engine for "around $200" at any local junkyard (seeing as how abundant they seem to be) and drop it in. easy right?

i want to get an 87-93 2.3 coupe and put a turbo on it. one difference with me is i won't be on as much of a "budget" as most of these guys seem to be. i know speed costs money. i'm planning on buying forged pistons/internals, upgraded fuel/elec. systems, moderate headwork, etc. all on the n/a block. i'll also be able to get my hands on some volvo turbos, intercoolers and other parts pretty soon (i'll be a volvo tech in 5 months)

i'd rather build the engine myself, knowing it'll be in good shape with 0 miles. if i drop in a used tc engine i don't know it's history, whether or not it's been abused or neglected. if i do somehow manage to get my hands on a turbo block i'll be ripping it apart anyway. the suspension, brakes and drivetrain will all be upgraded probably way before the engine so that aspect has been taken care of. in other words this won't be a weekend buildup.

all that typing to ask one question. even though i'm getting most everything on the engine aftermarket, do i still need to get a turbo block? is it all that different from the n/a?

I have the crank pistons and rods from a 88 turbo coupe engine. Also have the head and cam.

Derek

 

[egnorant]

Togh blocks

I have been around these engines since the early Pinto days.
I have never run across a block or crank problem.
I did see a block that was nearly torn in half due to a piston/wrist pin/upper
con rod blowup.
Crank torn up due to spun bearing after oil pump failure.
Carb bolt fell off into the intake and shattered a piston.
A lot of problems with thing with initials....TPS or DIS etc!
I don't have a lot of experience with after 1991 blocks so I can't say how they are better or not.
I am currently gathering knowledge for a turbo motor and have yet to come up with a reason the block and crank, in good condition, should not be used.
Bruce (TX)
84 GT Turbo vert
86 Turbo-bird
Lots of other pre-91 Mustangs.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Bruce (TX)
84 GT Turbo vert
86 Turbo-bird
Lots of other pre-91 Mustangs.

These 2.3L(T) motors seem pretty bullet proof to me, including the newer ones. That is just my own opinion.

Anyways, what part of Texas are you located Bruce?

 

[stang2.3t]

When I pulled the motor from my 90 NA I was suprised to find a turbo block in the car. The oil return was not drilled. Other then that It was all the same. I was happy cause that gives me a block to build.

 

[BelueLX]

A few questions for you you guys or anyone who has turbo'd a non-turbo 2.3L engine.

What do you do for fuel management (on a '89 2.3 non turbo with turbo added) ? Would a standard Vortech FMU (with 12:1 disk installed) provide enough fuel with the stock injectors and a Walbro pump?

And also will a stock 2.3T manifold bolt up to a stock non-turbo '89 2.3 head with no modifications?

Also what are 2.3 N/A injectors rated at like 19lbs or ? Thanks.

I recently ran across a nice '89 LX 2.3 coupe that runs great and want to throw on some spare turbo parts we have laying around on it. Also have a few spare engines from people doing 5.0 swaps. Thanks for all the input

 

[egnorant]

Turbo engines

The turbo motors I have are totally stock.
I got the GT turbo vert by accident, I was looking for a 5.0 vert and found it for less than $500.
Turbo bird was bought for an engine swap into a 91 vert, but it runs so well I cannot bring myself to take the bird apart. It has rust issues and will be a donor soon.
Can't comment on aftermarket fuel management systems.

Anyways, what part of Texas are you located Bruce?

I am in deep East Texas, 36 miles from Louisiana.
Bruce (East Texas)

 

[Pro-Hawk]

What do you do for fuel management

I think you would have to use a ECM from a 2.3T car (like a LA3 from a TC) and then swap in a VAM instead of the MAP/MAF sensor your using. Now you can use a tuner or burn a J3 chip. The J3 set up is probaly the cheapest way for about 300.00 bux and a 2.3T ECM will run about 50-200.00 bux. That is about what some people pay for the 2.3T donor cars.

And also will a stock 2.3T manifold bolt up to a stock non-turbo '89 2.3 head with no modifications?

Yes but a turbo head usualy has hardened exhaust seats which is better than a N/A 2.3L head.

Also what are 2.3 N/A injectors rated at like 19lbs or ? Thanks.

The stock N/A 2.3Ls came with 14lbs injectors which are rated up to 150 hp. You can usualy get a set of 19lb injectors for some GT guy for about 40 bux. ( high impedence injectors are matched to their sensor) These are rated up to 250-300hp I believe. Also keep in mind a these injectors will not work with a turbo ECM. A 2.3T uses low impendence injectors while a 2.3L/5.0 uses high impendence injectors. The 2.3Ts either use a 30lb injector or a 35lb injector also.

I recently ran across a nice '89 LX 2.3 coupe that runs great and want to throw on some spare turbo parts we have laying around on it. Also have a few spare engines from people doing 5.0 swaps. Thanks for all the input

All in All I think it would last longer and be cheaper to simply buy a donor 2.3T car and swap the motor into this one. The people I've seen turbo an N/A motor, only used the N/A block/head. The rest was off a 2.3T. I believe they started turboing N/A cars as a means to a new supply of heads since a lot of 2.3T heads end up cracked.

Good Luck.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

I am in deep East Texas, 36 miles from Louisiana.
Bruce (East Texas)

Yup I would say you're in East Texas I get through those parts a few times a year and it's freaken nice out that way

 

[BelueLX]

All I need is a manifold to be ready to go. Have turbo, oil lines, intercooler and piping, Vortech FMU, a few diff injectors, BOV, and some other crap laying around from previous projects. Guess I will find out if the FMU works when i find a manifold

 

[slow2.3]

All I need is a manifold to be ready to go. Have turbo, oil lines, intercooler and piping, Vortech FMU, a few diff injectors, BOV, and some other crap laying around from previous projects. Guess I will find out if the FMU works when i find a manifold

Make sure you pull a ton of timing. Must people who have tried have resulted in destroying there engine. You will only be able to run probably 4psi of boost. The pistons are the week link.

Has anyone been able to pull the oil pan off a 89-93 n/a engine with out removing it (the engine) from the car?

Do a search and learn from the others mistakes.

Good luck

Derek

 

[ccphil55]

if you have access to volvo stuff, and money, the dual overhead cam four cylinder head off of one of those with much work could go on one of these blocks. the bolt holes line up, but other that that some serious machine work needs to be done. A couple of people have attempted or are in process right now.

 

[BELL]

just curious, regarless of the airflow through the head how many RPMS you all think a 2.3T block with stock internals would rev to before having an oil pan failure...



you know the oil pan failing to retain the peices from the motor...

 

[Superhereaux]

which 4cyl engine is it?

the only volvo engines i have experience with so far is the modular "white engines" and they're fairly new.

also seems like too much work. it'd just be easier to warm over the stock head


also had a question on the engine management. could i use the stock computer with a chip and a tune?
i'm want close to 300rwhp (is it attainable?) and the only thing i'm unsure about is the computer

 

[Turbo_Raccoon]

I have a 79 pinto head ill sell looks to be in good condition cant see any cracks in it either.