I have a weird and potentially VERY bad problem....

I was changing my sparkplugs today, and I had some trouble with my #5 cylinder. Its done this before but I always seemed to get it snug enough that I felt it would work. Today I thought I would ask you guys on your thoughts. Then I put my sparkplug in, I cant tighten it very much by hand. Then once I get on it with a socket, it never tightens. It feels like its almost stripped. However, once I tighten it for a little, and try to move it by hand, it doesnt move and I cant unscrew it. Also, there are no metal shavings on the sparkplug. It doesnt make sense to me and I HOPE its not stripped, because that sounds like a horribly un-fun and expensive fix. Has this ever happened to anyone?
 
Hey Keven

That stuff sure don't sound too good :(

You would think if the threads were damaged, you would see loose threads as you talked about above :shrug:

I don't know man ... I am always so careful about being able to turn em in by hand a few rounds, using anti-seize, etc before doing the tighten thing.

:shrug: Maybe a thread chaser would help :shrug:

Grady
 
Are talking about pulling the head and taking it somewhere to have it repaired? If you are taking it down that far, may as well take em both and have all of the SP holes helicoiled. I'm not sure I would even run an aluminum head w/o Helicoils. Prolly be a good idea to do the exhaust and intakes holes, too. Lot o money, but.....
 
I was just down there with my head shoved pretty much in that spark plug hole and ir really doesnt look stripped. I know it cant be anything else but its really weird. All the threads look in tack and everything. Anyone know if I could put like a small bead of RTV or something to just put a little something in between the threads and hte head and take up a little room?
 
Id start with a thread chaser and see where that gets you.

Also, Alot of guys with 03/04 cobras had issues with stripped spark plug holes due to the super weak threads on those cars. Most people would get a heli coil kit and carefully tap it and insert the helicoil with the head on the car. With some patience im sure u may be able to do this.

Also, dont worry yourself with helicoiling all the holes. Thats way over board. Plenty of us have had aluminum heads for many years without ever stripping any threads.. You just gotta be carefull to not crossthread and your good to go.
 
i agree with yellow1995Cobra, HCing both heads sounds a tad bit extream. not that its the same, but i work at a harley dealer that does alot of SE big bore kits and heads and such. they guys in the shop told me HEing a head should be the last option. Although it might always be the easiest fix, its not always the best
 
Im going to buy some anti-sieze today, and hopefully that will be good enough. I dont have the tools here in college to be pulling a head off the car. Then when im home for spring break, maybe ill take both heads off and replace a few things while getting it helicoiled.
 
Keep in mind anti sieze is like a grease. If you are worried about the plug backing out its much more likely to do it with the anti sieze on there.. I never antisiezed any spark plugs on any of my cars. I dont think its necessary unless you NEVER change the plugs.
 
The antisieze is all about keeping the dis-similar metals from forming that white, chalky, powder stuff around the threads.

You want to use the antisieze when putting Steel bolts in Aluminum threads to keep that chemical reaction from happening. This kind of reaction thing can cause the bolt to become so fixed in the threads you can damage the part tryng to remove the bolt.

The same goes for Spark Plugs.

The slick or grease like properties of antisieze also can help to perserve the soft Aluminum threads as well.

Like the guy above, I used to be a Motorcycle Mechanic and we had many hosed up heads come in the shop due to peeps cross threading and over tightening the plugs.

When it comes to Aluminum threads, you really gotta be mindful of those two bad things that can happen and the white powder reaction thing as well.

Grady
 
final5-0 said:
The antisieze is all about keeping the dis-similar metals from forming that white, chalky, powder stuff around the threads.

You want to use the antisieze when putting Steel bolts in Aluminum threads to keep that chemical reaction from happening. This kind of reaction thing can cause the bolt to become so fixed in the threads you can damage the part tryng to remove the bolt.

The same goes for Spark Plugs.

The slick or grease like properties of antisieze also can help to perserve the soft Aluminum threads as well.

Like the guy above, I used to be a Motorcycle Mechanic and we had many hosed up heads come in the shop due to peeps cross threading and over tightening the plugs.

When it comes to Aluminum threads, you really gotta be mindful of those two bad things that can happen and the white powder reaction thing as well.

Grady

The white chalky stuff is oxidation. Its a surface layer the metal produces to "protect" itself. Copper is also well known for oxidizing in the color of green (look at some old copper pipe in your basement). Its basically the opposite of rust.

If you dont change the plugs for 50k miles then yea id antisieze without a doubt. If you checking them every 3k miles then no i dont feel its necessary, of course your free to do it either way.

Like you said Grady, with aluminum threads you need to take care. ALWAYS be sure you are threaded in correctly before trying to torque anything down.

A little tid bit of info: With the 03/04 cobras, they have issues with blowing sparkplugs out.. Now this is because there are only a few threads in the stock head (which has been redesigned with more). Owners were finding that not using antisieze was best. Because the plug had less chance of coming loose and backing out just enough to blow the plug through the remaining threads.

Also, i do electrical work and we work with aluminum wire sometimes doing services and what have you. It was always believed that you must use an anti-sieze like (nolox) compound on the aluminum wire when bolting it under a disimiliar lug in a panel. This has changed completely, and now the "electrical experts" did testing with UL listing and found its best to NOT use any compound of any type. Sure this isnt a car thing, but its disimiliar metals + aluminum which is what we are talking about, plus im sure you all have great interest in electrical BS :p