I have a weird and potentially VERY bad problem....

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 6, 2006

#1

• Nov 6, 2006

• #1

I was changing my sparkplugs today, and I had some trouble with my #5 cylinder. Its done this before but I always seemed to get it snug enough that I felt it would work. Today I thought I would ask you guys on your thoughts. Then I put my sparkplug in, I cant tighten it very much by hand. Then once I get on it with a socket, it never tightens. It feels like its almost stripped. However, once I tighten it for a little, and try to move it by hand, it doesnt move and I cant unscrew it. Also, there are no metal shavings on the sparkplug. It doesnt make sense to me and I HOPE its not stripped, because that sounds like a horribly un-fun and expensive fix. Has this ever happened to anyone?

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

12

79

DFW Texas

Nov 6, 2006

#2

• Nov 6, 2006

• #2

Hey Keven

That stuff sure don't sound too good

You would think if the threads were damaged, you would see loose threads as you talked about above

I don't know man ... I am always so careful about being able to turn em in by hand a few rounds, using anti-seize, etc before doing the tighten thing.

Maybe a thread chaser would help

Grady

 

diablostang

New Member

Sep 21, 2004

425

0

0

Raleigh, NC

Nov 6, 2006

#3

• Nov 6, 2006

• #3

I'd do what I can to check the threads/hole... Get a little mirror and flashlight if you can't see by just looking.

 

Zero Signal

Active Member

Feb 24, 2003

2,633

2

46

Tucson, AZ

Nov 6, 2006

#4

• Nov 6, 2006

• #4

Maybe it's just snagging on some rough spot in the threads, make sure you have some anti-seize on the threads.

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 6, 2006

#5

• Nov 6, 2006

• #5

I was thinking about it, and taking the head wouldnt be that much more work. How much would a shop charge to heli coil it?

 

T

Twistedoffpurp

New Member

Sep 20, 2006

13

0

2

Nov 6, 2006

#6

• Nov 6, 2006

• #6

Sounds like helicoil is gonna be the fix. Find a good reputable shop to do it though.

 

reddy351

10 Year Member

Jun 13, 2006

559

12

38

Columbus, Ohio

Nov 6, 2006

#7

• Nov 6, 2006

• #7

Are talking about pulling the head and taking it somewhere to have it repaired? If you are taking it down that far, may as well take em both and have all of the SP holes helicoiled. I'm not sure I would even run an aluminum head w/o Helicoils. Prolly be a good idea to do the exhaust and intakes holes, too. Lot o money, but.....

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 6, 2006

#8

• Nov 6, 2006

• #8

How much money we talking?

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 6, 2006

#9

• Nov 6, 2006

• #9

I was just down there with my head shoved pretty much in that spark plug hole and ir really doesnt look stripped. I know it cant be anything else but its really weird. All the threads look in tack and everything. Anyone know if I could put like a small bead of RTV or something to just put a little something in between the threads and hte head and take up a little room?

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

9

98

Bethesda, MD

Nov 6, 2006

#10

• Nov 6, 2006

• #10

how about a thread chaser?

 

Y

yellow1995Cobra

New Member

Dec 23, 2002

2,959

2

0

Massachusetts

Nov 6, 2006

#11

• Nov 6, 2006

• #11

Id start with a thread chaser and see where that gets you.

Also, Alot of guys with 03/04 cobras had issues with stripped spark plug holes due to the super weak threads on those cars. Most people would get a heli coil kit and carefully tap it and insert the helicoil with the head on the car. With some patience im sure u may be able to do this.

Also, dont worry yourself with helicoiling all the holes. Thats way over board. Plenty of us have had aluminum heads for many years without ever stripping any threads.. You just gotta be carefull to not crossthread and your good to go.

 

94GTMOOSE

Member

Jun 27, 2005

303

0

16

jersey shore

Nov 6, 2006

#12

• Nov 6, 2006

• #12

i agree with yellow1995Cobra, HCing both heads sounds a tad bit extream. not that its the same, but i work at a harley dealer that does alot of SE big bore kits and heads and such. they guys in the shop told me HEing a head should be the last option. Although it might always be the easiest fix, its not always the best

 

G

Green 94 5.0

Founding Member

Mar 25, 2002

2,601

12

79

Ft. Lauderdale, FL

Nov 7, 2006

#13

• Nov 7, 2006

• #13

truthfully, if the plug is snug now and you cant move it around or loosen it by hand, i wouldnt worry yourself about it. chances are it wont give you any problems at this point.

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 7, 2006

#14

• Nov 7, 2006

• #14

Im going to buy some anti-sieze today, and hopefully that will be good enough. I dont have the tools here in college to be pulling a head off the car. Then when im home for spring break, maybe ill take both heads off and replace a few things while getting it helicoiled.

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 7, 2006

#15

• Nov 7, 2006

• #15

Is there a difference in antisieze? There was one spark plug specific and then regular stuff and I bought the regular stuff. Think its ok?

 

Y

yellow1995Cobra

New Member

Dec 23, 2002

2,959

2

0

Massachusetts

Nov 7, 2006

#16

• Nov 7, 2006

• #16

Keep in mind anti sieze is like a grease. If you are worried about the plug backing out its much more likely to do it with the anti sieze on there.. I never antisiezed any spark plugs on any of my cars. I dont think its necessary unless you NEVER change the plugs.

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

12

79

DFW Texas

Nov 7, 2006

#17

• Nov 7, 2006

• #17

The antisieze is all about keeping the dis-similar metals from forming that white, chalky, powder stuff around the threads.

You want to use the antisieze when putting Steel bolts in Aluminum threads to keep that chemical reaction from happening. This kind of reaction thing can cause the bolt to become so fixed in the threads you can damage the part tryng to remove the bolt.

The same goes for Spark Plugs.

The slick or grease like properties of antisieze also can help to perserve the soft Aluminum threads as well.

Like the guy above, I used to be a Motorcycle Mechanic and we had many hosed up heads come in the shop due to peeps cross threading and over tightening the plugs.

When it comes to Aluminum threads, you really gotta be mindful of those two bad things that can happen and the white powder reaction thing as well.

Grady

 

Y

yellow1995Cobra

New Member

Dec 23, 2002

2,959

2

0

Massachusetts

Nov 8, 2006

#18

• Nov 8, 2006

• #18

final5-0 said:

The antisieze is all about keeping the dis-similar metals from forming that white, chalky, powder stuff around the threads.

You want to use the antisieze when putting Steel bolts in Aluminum threads to keep that chemical reaction from happening. This kind of reaction thing can cause the bolt to become so fixed in the threads you can damage the part tryng to remove the bolt.

The same goes for Spark Plugs.

The slick or grease like properties of antisieze also can help to perserve the soft Aluminum threads as well.

Like the guy above, I used to be a Motorcycle Mechanic and we had many hosed up heads come in the shop due to peeps cross threading and over tightening the plugs.

When it comes to Aluminum threads, you really gotta be mindful of those two bad things that can happen and the white powder reaction thing as well.

Grady

Click to expand...

The white chalky stuff is oxidation. Its a surface layer the metal produces to "protect" itself. Copper is also well known for oxidizing in the color of green (look at some old copper pipe in your basement). Its basically the opposite of rust.

If you dont change the plugs for 50k miles then yea id antisieze without a doubt. If you checking them every 3k miles then no i dont feel its necessary, of course your free to do it either way.

Like you said Grady, with aluminum threads you need to take care. ALWAYS be sure you are threaded in correctly before trying to torque anything down.

A little tid bit of info: With the 03/04 cobras, they have issues with blowing sparkplugs out.. Now this is because there are only a few threads in the stock head (which has been redesigned with more). Owners were finding that not using antisieze was best. Because the plug had less chance of coming loose and backing out just enough to blow the plug through the remaining threads.

Also, i do electrical work and we work with aluminum wire sometimes doing services and what have you. It was always believed that you must use an anti-sieze like (nolox) compound on the aluminum wire when bolting it under a disimiliar lug in a panel. This has changed completely, and now the "electrical experts" did testing with UL listing and found its best to NOT use any compound of any type. Sure this isnt a car thing, but its disimiliar metals + aluminum which is what we are talking about, plus im sure you all have great interest in electrical BS

 

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member

Oct 27, 2003

2,849

0

46

Tampa Florida....USF!!!

Nov 8, 2006

#19

• Nov 8, 2006

• #19

Im not really using the anti-sieze to make sure I dont get it stuck in there, more for to take up space in between the threads of the plug and the inside of the head. Hopefully that will be enough to keep it from stripping?