I have about HAD IT!!!!

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is up with my car!!! I changed the heads, intake and put new fuel injectors in (stock 19lbs), put a 70MM throttle body in and the car runs like POO It won't start right of the bat. it struggles to get up to idle and when it does you can't push the throttle pedal down any because it bogs down to almost stalls and backfires! after it warms up a bit to where you can actually drive it there is studdering and hestitation in the acceleration. The check engine light is on so I get the codes pulled and find out its a TPS...Well I spend $42 and wait 3 days for one to get here and R2 it start it up and it is like I didn't do a thing to the car!!!! I am at a loss!!! Any body have this problem before? BTW I have a Trick Flow Track Heat upper and lower intake and Twisted Wedge Heads!

gcomfx.com · Apr 18, 2007

Did you get any other codes after the TPS code? Also, did you reset your computer after changing the TPS?

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

gcomfx.com said:
Did you get any other codes after the TPS code? Also, did you reset your computer after changing the TPS?

No no other codes and yes I diconnected the battery for a bit to clear it out.

WhiteDevil · Apr 18, 2007

I see you got a new throttle body. You probably need to adjust your throttle set screw to put your TPS in the correct range. Also play with the idle bypass screw and see if it helps.

gcomfx.com · Apr 18, 2007

I had poor starting issues, and bad detonation for a year. It gradually got worse and worse until I finally figured out the timing was jumping around. It turned out to be the distributor. I put a nice MSD billet in it and the car ran much better and I could spray the car again.

Have you checked your car at night with the hood opened. If you have any bad plug wires or anything you can see the arcing.

Also another cheap test.... what do the plugs look like?

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

WhiteDevil said:
I see you got a new throttle body. You probably need to adjust your throttle set screw to put your TPS in the correct range. Also play with the idle bypass screw and see if it helps.

Idle bypass screw? You mean the 2 allen stock screws under the TPS? and how do I adjust the range? when I get the car started it'll idle at around 7-800rpms. with no problems

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

gcomfx.com said:
I had poor starting issues, and bad detonation for a year. It gradually got worse and worse until I finally figured out the timing was jumping around. It turned out to be the distributor. I put a nice MSD billet in it and the car ran much better and I could spray the car again.

Have you checked your car at night with the hood opened. If you have any bad plug wires or anything you can see the arcing.

Also another cheap test.... what do the plugs look like?

The plug wires are good (only 2 years old) The plugs themselves are black because it ran very rich because after I installed the intake manifold I had a servere vaccum leak which caused it to run rich as hell.

gcomfx.com · Apr 18, 2007

Two years old doesn't mean anything. I've had brand new ones be bad. Food for thought.

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

gcomfx.com said:
Two years old doesn't mean anything. I've had brand new ones be bad. Food for thought.

OK I'll check them anyways.

5spd GT · Apr 18, 2007

Are your valve adjusted correctly? They need to be 'torqued' (pedestal) or 'turned after preload 1/2 a turn' (stud-mounted).

How is the timing? Did you do it correctly? Rotor pointing at #1 in the distributor?

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

5spd GT said:
Are your valve adjusted correctly? They need to be 'torqued' (pedestal) or 'turned after preload 1/2 a turn' (stud-mounted).

How is the timing? Did you do it correctly? Rotor pointing at #1 in the distributor?

preload good (did it twice), timing is correct (did it twice too), Rotor is at #1

BlackVert · Apr 18, 2007

sounds like the dizzy might be 180* off to me

WHITE94COBRA · Apr 18, 2007

Whats your fuel pressure at? With heads and cam it should be right around 38 - 40 psi, those are little injectors for a H/C/I car by the way. Also check to see if your spout connector is in; Did you pull the spout when timing it? Are there any noticeable vaccuume leaks? What happens when you pull the vaccuume off of your regulator? Check all of that and give me results.

95gtdude · Apr 18, 2007

WHITE94COBRA said:
Whats your fuel pressure at? With heads and cam it should be right around 38 - 40 psi, those are little injectors for a H/C/I car by the way. Also check to see if your spout connector is in; Did you pull the spout when timing it? Are there any noticeable vaccuume leaks? What happens when you pull the vaccuume off of your regulator? Check all of that and give me results.

Well I can't check the fuel pressure becasue I don't have the gauge. And I'm using the OEM cam as far as I know. and yes we pulled the SPOUT when we timed it and it is back in. and no NOTICABLE vaccum leaks. and what reg are you refering too?

juiced_94gt · Apr 18, 2007

Same EXACT thing happed to my friends car, even put in a new motor and all sensors, it was the distributor pick up that was bad, try that it was forty bucks and solved ALL his problems.

BlackVert · Apr 18, 2007

i'm pretty sure he's referring to the fuel pressure regulator

Pokageek · Apr 18, 2007

I did the SAME THING. It turned out to be the MAF must be PROGRAMMED by a PROFESSIONAL or TWEECER REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE ONE YTOU BOUGHT STATES IT IS FOR THE INJECTORS ON THE CAR. My experience is that even thpough I bought 2 different brands designed for exact match with my new 24# injectors, it did NOT WORK. I STILL had to have the MAF tuned!

I hope this helps you cause it cost me $1200 for some jerk shop to tell me that.

OH AND I BOUGHT A BRAND NEW DISTRIBUTOS AND THE DAM STATOR AND PIP WERE BAD ON TOP OF ALL THAT!

AND MY 3RD PROBLEM TO TOP IT ALL OFF WAS ONE OF MY INJECTORS WAS BAD AND GOT CRIMPED MY I TIGHTENED MY INTAKE DOWN.

I hope that helps. Check all 3 items.

gcomfx.com · Apr 18, 2007

juiced_94gt said:
Same EXACT thing happed to my friends car, even put in a new motor and all sensors, it was the distributor pick up that was bad, try that it was forty bucks and solved ALL his problems.

That was most like what was wrong with mine... I just tossed more money at it, to replace the insides of the distributor.

m0l0 · Apr 18, 2007

gcomfx.com said:
That was most like what was wrong with mine... I just tossed more money at it, to replace the insides of the distributor.

That PIP is causing more and more headaches, almost every 3 days someone will post a stalling problem , we should do some sticky Stalling topic with information on the Sensor and how to change it ( cheap route ) , or just installing another dist, this reminds me that also the radiators have a lifetime of exactly 10~ years, no matter what stang ive seen but all with 10 years + oem radiator will start leaking, seems to apply to the PIP.

Ohh well i think our cars are showing the age they have

gcomfx.com · Apr 18, 2007

I agree... I think the problems are age related as well. Most that don't have these issues.... have a signature a mile long where they have already replaced this stuff.

I have about HAD IT!!!!

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