The links in my first post would have helped you with some of this stuff.
The OEM fan is a two-speed unit.
The WOT relay is in the CCRM. The power to the AC clutch passes through the N.C. and common terminals at rest. The only time the relay is active is if you're at WOT.
So... you agree with the CCRM diagnosis?
Sorry, my assumption. Do you agree with my assumption? I'll be really testing it this weekend.What diagnostics did you do in order to test it?
Sorry, my assumption. Do you agree with my assumption? I'll be really testing it this weekend.
I try not to guess or make assumptions, especially when it comes to expensive parts (CCRM's are not cheap). Five minutes of testing will really narrow things down for ya. Then you can feel pretty good about things and not kick yourself if the new part is *not* the solution.
The fan circuit is kind of complex (the EDF monitor throws a variable into the mix) and there are several things which can cause an issue like yours.
Once you know what's going on exactly, we can also help you rig up fan switches or circumvent the issue probably.
Good luck Sal.
Thanks for the explanation. I was curious if you know what and where I should start testing. I really think the CCRM may be biting the dust. Is there a wiring diagram that I can go off of that would show me what to test on the CCRM?
Thanks for all the wonderful information so far! Thanks again
HOLY CRAP!!This sounds exactly like the problem I'm having now! Car just started doing this same thing today! It usually never went past O on the NORMAL and all day today it was between M and A and sometimes on A. Coolant is good, thermostat opens and fan still kicks on. But I didn't even know that it was a two speed fan. The fan never kicked on till it hit the A. Could that mean that the low speed is not workin?
Sorry SableSal....seems like I keep jumping in your threads! lol
No worries man! I'll be replacing my stock thermostat to a 180 and checking out the damn CCRM and making sure that's good too.Sorry SableSal....seems like I keep jumping in your threads! lol
Good tip. I'll check it tomorrow. Thanks again!Check the clutch's electrical connector to make sure the ground to the clutch isn't bad.
Not the pressure switch. I've bypassed it and still nothing. Thanks for the advise though!And check the cycling/pressure switch on the accumulator.
You and I are in the same boat...Damn man...looks like your running out of options!
I'm gettin confused with mine now...everything is workin like it's supposed to. Fan kicks on both speeds and I'm not gettin any temp. codes. I get home from school (at around mid-night) and can smell antifreeze outside the car. Pop the hood and there is no antifreeze anywhere!! Why the hell would I smell burnin anitfreeze and not find any puddles, wet spots or even a steamy, smokey effect anywhere??
Damn man...looks like your running out of options!
I'm gettin confused with mine now...everything is workin like it's supposed to. Fan kicks on both speeds and I'm not gettin any temp. codes. I get home from school (at around mid-night) and can smell antifreeze outside the car. Pop the hood and there is no antifreeze anywhere!! Why the hell would I smell burnin anitfreeze and not find any puddles, wet spots or even a steamy, smokey effect anywhere??
You are either burning coolant, your radiator is cracked or your hose clamps aren't tight enough. The latter two would not let the coolant get up to 16psi, thus making the coolant get hotter faster. Are you loosing coolant? Pop the radiator cap and make sure your radiator isn't half empty.
I'd also recommend a coolant pressure test. I would lend you mine id you were in Los Angeles, but that commute is a killer.
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