i keep bending clutch rods
- Thread starter cobra1
- Start date
dennis112
15 Year Member
Although this may sound extreme, you could toss your present "strong leg" pressure plate and replace it with a Centerforce Dual Friction. They require much, much less foot pressure to engage the clutch. It is even recommended by Centerforce that you remove that big helper spring found up under the dash.
I LOVE MINE!!!!!
Otherwise, prepare to beef things up as D.Hearne suggested--you probably need to visit the clutch/brake pedal support occasionally too.
I LOVE MINE!!!!!
Otherwise, prepare to beef things up as D.Hearne suggested--you probably need to visit the clutch/brake pedal support occasionally too.
2nd Mustang
Founding Member
Is this the rod from the pedal to the Z bar or the adjustable rod to the clutch fork? I have a 67 coupe with a 302 also. The PO had a 65 pedal rod which had a different curvature to it and the Z bar ended up twisting. I found the correct rod and replaced the Z bar and has been good for five years now with no twisting of the Z bar, but I must admit that I really don't bang the gears that much.
I also switched to a Centerforce II clutch without the return spring and it has less pressure than the original clutch that came with the car. Good luck.
I also switched to a Centerforce II clutch without the return spring and it has less pressure than the original clutch that came with the car. Good luck.
pabear89
Active Member
Check the travel distance of the fork when you press the petal.
you might be trying to push past its limits and bending the rod because
the petal is still off the floor.
PB
you might be trying to push past its limits and bending the rod because
the petal is still off the floor.
PB
65 fastback
Founding Member
All of the above are good suggestions.
- Reinforce your Z-bar, it will surely be the next thing to bend
- A diaphram clutch/pressure plate set-up like the Centerforce Dual Friction requires much less pressure to operate.
Also here is a link to a great thread on upgrading your clutch linkage - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1443597/post/1540512/hl//#1540512
Tim
- Reinforce your Z-bar, it will surely be the next thing to bend
- A diaphram clutch/pressure plate set-up like the Centerforce Dual Friction requires much less pressure to operate.
Also here is a link to a great thread on upgrading your clutch linkage - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1443597/post/1540512/hl//#1540512
Tim
This is one part I should have mentioned, good idea.
The pot metal bushings in the support do not last forever. I had to change the support in my big block 67 back in the 80's when I had it. And then the car was only 15 years old, give or take a couple years. I had all kinds of hell with the linkage till I discovered the pedals had worn thru the bushings and were on the way thru the steel support (which is paper thin to start with
)
65 fastback
Founding Member
This is one part I should have mentioned, good idea.
Good point. You can convert this to a roller bearing conversion also. Scott Drake makes a roller bearing clutch pedal support kit - http://www.scottdrake.net/prod_deta...Manual+transmission+related+::+Clutch+related or check out the Mustang Steve mod - http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html
Tim
My brother basically has the same car and setup you do and was having the same problems. What he did was get a piece of all thread and cut it to the same size as the clutch rod. Next he thread nuts all the way up the piece of all thread with lock washers inbetween each nut, and that was it. That was his clutch rod. He has yet to break or bend it.
fasttback
New Member
My quick fix back in the 80's:
I went with a bigger rod (a hardened fine thread bolt) and cut and grind to fit. Solved my problem.
I went with a bigger rod (a hardened fine thread bolt) and cut and grind to fit. Solved my problem.
The Heim-jointed clutch rods are the way to go. Opentracker made me a set for my 67. In addition I have a reinforced Z-bar and a roller bearing pedal support (done by Mustang Steve for $85).
To be honest I don't see how a cable or hydraulic setup could be any better. Absolutely NO slop in the linkage any more.
The Heim joints come with 3/8" bolts (factory size). I drilled out the holes in the Z-bar to 1/2" and used Hurst metal shifter bushings to reduce them back down to 3/8". That way I didn't have to use the crappy little factory plastic bushings.
I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch with the large spring (under the dash) removed.
To be honest I don't see how a cable or hydraulic setup could be any better. Absolutely NO slop in the linkage any more.
The Heim joints come with 3/8" bolts (factory size). I drilled out the holes in the Z-bar to 1/2" and used Hurst metal shifter bushings to reduce them back down to 3/8". That way I didn't have to use the crappy little factory plastic bushings.
I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch with the large spring (under the dash) removed.
65 fastback
Founding Member
I uploaded a picture of my roller bearing clutch conversion to Photobucket, so I thought I would revive this thread and post the picture.
I installed the Scott Drake roller bearing clutch pedal support kit - http://www.scottdrake.net/prod_deta...Manual+transmission+related+::+Clutch+related -
Got the hemispherical rodends and clutch linkage from OpenTracker and took my Z-bar to a local welder to get it reinforced.
My clutch linkage is excellent! Smooth, slop free and provides good feed back.
Tim
I installed the Scott Drake roller bearing clutch pedal support kit - http://www.scottdrake.net/prod_deta...Manual+transmission+related+::+Clutch+related -
Got the hemispherical rodends and clutch linkage from OpenTracker and took my Z-bar to a local welder to get it reinforced.
My clutch linkage is excellent! Smooth, slop free and provides good feed back.
Tim
More info on the idea of reinforcing your current setup.
http://whittz.com/v-web/gallery/z-bar?page=1
http://whittz.com/v-web/gallery/z-bar?page=1
I used a coupling nut and cut threads on the stock rod, replaced one end with a sphrical rod end and Pete Hill made a bushing for the rod end from some aero-space self lubricating material that he used on his Top-Fuel drag bike. It works. That Scott Drake roller bearing kit looks promising. Wonder if he has one for the bell-crank.
Thank you Tim. Your post, and your photograph is EXACTLY what I needed to read having just reached the point of maximum intolerance with my own z-bar system, and it's worn out bushings etc.
Some questions, if I may?
(1) Having done the task yourself recently, what is the best way to replace the pedal assembly bushings with the sealed bearings? Does the pedal assembly absolutely have to come out? If so, what is the best way to remove the pedal assembly? Remove the steering wheel and instrument cluster, yes?
(2) How best to remove the z-bar system? I have a set of long length headers which wrap either side of the z-bar. I'd hate to have to remove the headers as well.
(3) If we're removing the pedal assembly, I have to remove all the master brake cylinder assembly from the engine bay side of the firewall too, yes?
Any, and all advice on the best sequence of steps would be greatly appreciated.
65 fastback
Founding Member
(1) " Having done the task yourself recently, what is the best way to replace the pedal assembly bushings with the sealed bearings? Does the pedal assembly absolutely have to come out? If so, what is the best way to remove the pedal assembly? Remove the steering wheel and instrument cluster, yes?"
I used the Scott Drake kit and it is working fine for me, but it is not a sealed bearing - the Mustang Steve kit is a sealed bearing. I think either will be fine. The Scott Drake kit does not require welding.
The pedal support does need to be removed and is the hardest part of the project. I pulled my driver seat so that I could lay flat to work, I think that makes the job tolerable. Then I pulled the fresh air box and loosened the steering column (I did not have to take it or the instrument cluster out). Then you can remove the clutch pedal, brake pedal, then the support hanger.
(2) How best to remove the z-bar system? I have a set of long length headers which wrap either side of the z-bar. I'd hate to have to remove the headers as well.
I did not have to remove my headers or any other parts to get my Z-bar out, but I did have a lot of trouble getting it back in after having the bracing welded on. I suggest that you leave the Z-bar inplace and tape some cardboard templates to it, to check for clearances and to insure that it will go back into place if you weld any bracing on. To remove the Z-bar, first you need to unbolt the bracket (part A-10) that is mounted to the driverside fener apron - You access the bolts from above.
(3) If we're removing the pedal assembly, I have to remove all the master brake cylinder assembly from the engine bay side of the firewall too, yes?
You do not need to completely remove the master cylinder, you just need to unbolt it (as these bolts attach the pedal support under the dash) and support it in place.
Also, I did not reinstall the under dash clutch pedal assist spring (part A5), everything works fine without it.
Hope that is somewhat helpful.
Tim
I used the Scott Drake kit and it is working fine for me, but it is not a sealed bearing - the Mustang Steve kit is a sealed bearing. I think either will be fine. The Scott Drake kit does not require welding.
The pedal support does need to be removed and is the hardest part of the project. I pulled my driver seat so that I could lay flat to work, I think that makes the job tolerable. Then I pulled the fresh air box and loosened the steering column (I did not have to take it or the instrument cluster out). Then you can remove the clutch pedal, brake pedal, then the support hanger.
(2) How best to remove the z-bar system? I have a set of long length headers which wrap either side of the z-bar. I'd hate to have to remove the headers as well.
I did not have to remove my headers or any other parts to get my Z-bar out, but I did have a lot of trouble getting it back in after having the bracing welded on. I suggest that you leave the Z-bar inplace and tape some cardboard templates to it, to check for clearances and to insure that it will go back into place if you weld any bracing on. To remove the Z-bar, first you need to unbolt the bracket (part A-10) that is mounted to the driverside fener apron - You access the bolts from above.
(3) If we're removing the pedal assembly, I have to remove all the master brake cylinder assembly from the engine bay side of the firewall too, yes?
You do not need to completely remove the master cylinder, you just need to unbolt it (as these bolts attach the pedal support under the dash) and support it in place.
Also, I did not reinstall the under dash clutch pedal assist spring (part A5), everything works fine without it.
Hope that is somewhat helpful.
Tim
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65 fastback
Founding Member
Here's what I put on mine, they're a basic ricer pedal cover. But I drilled and tapped my pedals when I installed them. They come with a slip over type bracket that is sure to ruin your shoes and slip at an inopportune moment.
This guy over on VMF used late model pedal covers - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/sh...Pedal/#1591746 - with a little modification. He used the automatic brake pedal covers for the brake and clutch covers. I think it came out great.
And these have just been released specifically for '64-'72 Mustangs - www.musclerodz.com
Tim
This guy over on VMF used late model pedal covers - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/sh...Pedal/#1591746 - with a little modification. He used the automatic brake pedal covers for the brake and clutch covers. I think it came out great.
And these have just been released specifically for '64-'72 Mustangs - www.musclerodz.com
Tim
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