i need a nice functional hood

2000xp8 said:

stangbear, you are right i was harse, i apologize.
But your car would look much better with another hood.

Still doesn't change the fact that air coming through the hood is not much colder if any than air coming in though the fender.

Besides ram airs do not work at lower speeds, because the car draws the air in faster than the momemtum of the car anyway.

As i said you get more flow from a nice big AFM power pipe, and the bends are alot less restrictive.

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stangbear427 said:

Accepted. It's all a matter of opinion... I love my hood and get compliments on it everywhere I go, so it stays, just like my GT wing that I know you don't like either. I love your hood too... that's why my wife's LX has a plain cowl. I think we may all be able to get along anyway, with effort.

The way ram air actually works is a common misconception. The speed of the car makes no difference; there is a negative pressure that makes most peoples idea of how it works impossible (just like the misconception that closed tailgates on pickup trucks cause bad gas mileage when the opposite has been proven to be true). It doesn't matter how fast you go, the engine will still suck it faster than you cutting through the air will "ram" it in because the car's aerodynamics discourage the air from going in the holes at speed. If anything, there would be more of that kind of ramming effect the slower you go, as suggested by wind tunnel testing. So the "ram air" name is misleading, as it refers only to the density effect in this application. Similarly, there is also a negative pressure in the fender well, significantly inhibiting the cycling of fresh air, which is why racers pull out the headlight. Otherwise, the air in the fender is still stagnant, and pre-heated by the tires, brakes, and engine. Stick your hand up in there after a cruise in the summer: septic. I got the bright idea to pull my wife's air silencer after she got home from work one day (in January)... it's still in there. Someday I'll try again- before she goes to work.

Agreed, the AFM pipe is a good piece (if IMO a bit overpriced for what it intrinsically is) but I've only ever seen measured improvements with them in forced air applications- which makes sense, since that's what I think they were developed for. They seem much more worth the price when they give you another 2lbs of boost- otherwise I'd rather get a C&L Trueflow inlet for $50 on ebay. (or, do what I did to the stock junk). Rest assured that as soon as forced induction goes under my hood, EVERYTHING related to how my engine inhales will be changed around significantly, and it may even involve retiring this hood. In the meantime...

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stangbear427 said:

Yeah, I've been out of Stangnet for a few months... I'm sure this is one of those subjects like 3.73's vs 4.10's- or which shifter is the best- that has been beat to death numerous times. I suppose it's still a hijack... since mustanglvr88 didn't ask how or if it worked, only if there was a cheaper one than Cervinis worth looking at. Did that Q ever really get answered?
The Just the hood. The Cervinis kit includes a new upper airbox and a filler plate that closes off the hole going through to the fenderwell, so the airbox is totally sealed except the hood.

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stangbear427 said:

Are you sure? It doesn't look like anything important, like a big scrap. I almost threw mine away before I found out what it was.

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stangbear427 said:

The way ram air actually works is a common misconception. The speed of the car makes no difference; there is a negative pressure that makes most peoples idea of how it works impossible (just like the misconception that closed tailgates on pickup trucks cause bad gas mileage when the opposite has been proven to be true). It doesn't matter how fast you go, the engine will still suck it faster than you cutting through the air will "ram" it in because the car's aerodynamics discourage the air from going in the holes at speed. If anything, there would be more of that kind of ramming effect the slower you go, as suggested by wind tunnel testing. So the "ram air" name is misleading, as it refers only to the density effect in this application. Similarly, there is also a negative pressure in the fender well, significantly inhibiting the cycling of fresh air, which is why racers pull out the headlight. Otherwise, the air in the fender is still stagnant, and pre-heated by the tires, brakes, and engine. Stick your hand up in there after a cruise in the summer: septic. I got the bright idea to pull my wife's air silencer after she got home from work one day (in January)... it's still in there. Someday I'll try again- before she goes to work.

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18mustangs said:

Stangbear, I agree with what you say, however my brother has the banshee shaker on his TW, sgt1, explorer intake '89 GT. His car not only breathes better at lower speeds, but once at 80mph the ram air staretd to work and he got a mild boost,which consequently was the same speed that the 69-70 shaker got it's boost so speed may indeed have an effect on ram air.
Tim

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fordnatic said:

I hate to open a dead thread however I am curious, what happens when it rains? Do you pull the water into your inlet tract? I'm interested in a ram air hood but my vert is a daily driver and WILL see rain unfortunately. Thanks - Peace all.

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