i need a nice functional hood

[2000xp8]

stangbear, you are right i was harse, i apologize.
But your car would look much better with another hood.

Still doesn't change the fact that air coming through the hood is not much colder if any than air coming in though the fender.

Besides ram airs do not work at lower speeds, because the car draws the air in faster than the momemtum of the car anyway.

As i said you get more flow from a nice big AFM power pipe, and the bends are alot less restrictive.

 

[Curse]

mustanglvr88, see what you started j/k
Anyway I say go with a hood you like, not because of how "functional" someone said it is.

 

[stangbear427]

stangbear, you are right i was harse, i apologize.
But your car would look much better with another hood.

Still doesn't change the fact that air coming through the hood is not much colder if any than air coming in though the fender.

Besides ram airs do not work at lower speeds, because the car draws the air in faster than the momemtum of the car anyway.

As i said you get more flow from a nice big AFM power pipe, and the bends are alot less restrictive.

Accepted. It's all a matter of opinion... I love my hood and get compliments on it everywhere I go, so it stays, just like my GT wing that I know you don't like either. I love your hood too... that's why my wife's LX has a plain cowl. I think we may all be able to get along anyway, with effort.

The way ram air actually works is a common misconception. The speed of the car makes no difference; there is a negative pressure that makes most peoples idea of how it works impossible (just like the misconception that closed tailgates on pickup trucks cause bad gas mileage when the opposite has been proven to be true). It doesn't matter how fast you go, the engine will still suck it faster than you cutting through the air will "ram" it in because the car's aerodynamics discourage the air from going in the holes at speed. If anything, there would be more of that kind of ramming effect the slower you go, as suggested by wind tunnel testing. So the "ram air" name is misleading, as it refers only to the density effect in this application. Similarly, there is also a negative pressure in the fender well, significantly inhibiting the cycling of fresh air, which is why racers pull out the headlight. Otherwise, the air in the fender is still stagnant, and pre-heated by the tires, brakes, and engine. Stick your hand up in there after a cruise in the summer: septic. I got the bright idea to pull my wife's air silencer after she got home from work one day (in January)... it's still in there. Someday I'll try again- before she goes to work.

Agreed, the AFM pipe is a good piece (if IMO a bit overpriced for what it intrinsically is) but I've only ever seen measured improvements with them in forced air applications- which makes sense, since that's what I think they were developed for. They seem much more worth the price when they give you another 2lbs of boost- otherwise I'd rather get a C&L Trueflow inlet for $50 on ebay. (or, do what I did to the stock junk). Rest assured that as soon as forced induction goes under my hood, EVERYTHING related to how my engine inhales will be changed around significantly, and it may even involve retiring this hood. In the meantime...

 

[2000xp8]

Just for the record, i don't dislike the GT wing, i don't like it on an Lx though.

 

[stangbear427]

That's what I get for trusting my memory!

 

[_jb_]

Accepted. It's all a matter of opinion... I love my hood and get compliments on it everywhere I go, so it stays, just like my GT wing that I know you don't like either. I love your hood too... that's why my wife's LX has a plain cowl. I think we may all be able to get along anyway, with effort.

The way ram air actually works is a common misconception. The speed of the car makes no difference; there is a negative pressure that makes most peoples idea of how it works impossible (just like the misconception that closed tailgates on pickup trucks cause bad gas mileage when the opposite has been proven to be true). It doesn't matter how fast you go, the engine will still suck it faster than you cutting through the air will "ram" it in because the car's aerodynamics discourage the air from going in the holes at speed. If anything, there would be more of that kind of ramming effect the slower you go, as suggested by wind tunnel testing. So the "ram air" name is misleading, as it refers only to the density effect in this application. Similarly, there is also a negative pressure in the fender well, significantly inhibiting the cycling of fresh air, which is why racers pull out the headlight. Otherwise, the air in the fender is still stagnant, and pre-heated by the tires, brakes, and engine. Stick your hand up in there after a cruise in the summer: septic. I got the bright idea to pull my wife's air silencer after she got home from work one day (in January)... it's still in there. Someday I'll try again- before she goes to work.

Agreed, the AFM pipe is a good piece (if IMO a bit overpriced for what it intrinsically is) but I've only ever seen measured improvements with them in forced air applications- which makes sense, since that's what I think they were developed for. They seem much more worth the price when they give you another 2lbs of boost- otherwise I'd rather get a C&L Trueflow inlet for $50 on ebay. (or, do what I did to the stock junk). Rest assured that as soon as forced induction goes under my hood, EVERYTHING related to how my engine inhales will be changed around significantly, and it may even involve retiring this hood. In the meantime...

This subject came up before. Are you supposed to close off the fender and only have the air come through the hood? Or have both the hood and the fender open?

 

[stangbear427]

Yeah, I've been out of Stangnet for a few months... I'm sure this is one of those subjects like 3.73's vs 4.10's- or which shifter is the best- that has been beat to death numerous times. I suppose it's still a hijack... since mustanglvr88 didn't ask how or if it worked, only if there was a cheaper one than Cervinis worth looking at. Did that Q ever really get answered?
The Just the hood. The Cervinis kit includes a new upper airbox and a filler plate that closes off the hole going through to the fenderwell, so the airbox is totally sealed except the hood.

 

[1SLO306]

I got a fiberglass 2.5" cobra R hood, Looks good i think. Big enough u know it there but not so big that it blocks ur view. Its cut out where it will draw heat from my engine

 

[_jb_]

Yeah, I've been out of Stangnet for a few months... I'm sure this is one of those subjects like 3.73's vs 4.10's- or which shifter is the best- that has been beat to death numerous times. I suppose it's still a hijack... since mustanglvr88 didn't ask how or if it worked, only if there was a cheaper one than Cervinis worth looking at. Did that Q ever really get answered?
The Just the hood. The Cervinis kit includes a new upper airbox and a filler plate that closes off the hole going through to the fenderwell, so the airbox is totally sealed except the hood.

I thought so. I didn't get a blocker plate for my hood, I had to make one.

 

[stangbear427]

Are you sure? It doesn't look like anything important, like a big scrap. I almost threw mine away before I found out what it was.

 

[ramjetlx]

Ever seen a functional shaker hood on a fox?

We can debate if ram air works or not all day long. I will say mine works but as a cold air kit and shaker hood. Ram air? Its hard to prove.The reason I have mine is there is very, very few foxes with a shaker hood, which makes it unique. Second it pulls cold air from the top of the hood where it is cooler and much cleaner then the street or fenderwell. Third, it looks good. If the man wants to buy a $600 hood because it looks good and makes him happy, let him do it!!!! I think too many mustangs run around with big cowl hoods, its a little more unique to have a ram air hood. Everybody is entitled to their own look.....

 

[NakedRaygun]

Even though overdone a big cowl bounces right off the windshield and onto the intake manifold...You get reduced weight, decent looks, more clearance and colder air flooded in the engine bay which wouldn't hurt anything.

 

[Legendary]

I have a ram air hood but not the kit. I mainly got it for the looks and to have more air flowing under the hood to keep everything cooler when I do my turbo project.

 

[_jb_]

Are you sure? It doesn't look like anything important, like a big scrap. I almost threw mine away before I found out what it was.

The only thing I remember seeing is like a template, and it was just paper. This happened a year or so ago though. I can't exactly remember lol.

 

[18mustangs]

The way ram air actually works is a common misconception. The speed of the car makes no difference; there is a negative pressure that makes most peoples idea of how it works impossible (just like the misconception that closed tailgates on pickup trucks cause bad gas mileage when the opposite has been proven to be true). It doesn't matter how fast you go, the engine will still suck it faster than you cutting through the air will "ram" it in because the car's aerodynamics discourage the air from going in the holes at speed. If anything, there would be more of that kind of ramming effect the slower you go, as suggested by wind tunnel testing. So the "ram air" name is misleading, as it refers only to the density effect in this application. Similarly, there is also a negative pressure in the fender well, significantly inhibiting the cycling of fresh air, which is why racers pull out the headlight. Otherwise, the air in the fender is still stagnant, and pre-heated by the tires, brakes, and engine. Stick your hand up in there after a cruise in the summer: septic. I got the bright idea to pull my wife's air silencer after she got home from work one day (in January)... it's still in there. Someday I'll try again- before she goes to work.

Stangbear, I agree with what you say, however my brother has the banshee shaker on his TW, sgt1, explorer intake '89 GT. His car not only breathes better at lower speeds, but once at 80mph the ram air staretd to work and he got a mild boost,which consequently was the same speed that the 69-70 shaker got it's boost so speed may indeed have an effect on ram air.
Tim

 

[mustanglvr88]

i thank i will probaly get the cervinis stormin normin hood with kit.

thanks everbody

 

[stangbear427]

Stangbear, I agree with what you say, however my brother has the banshee shaker on his TW, sgt1, explorer intake '89 GT. His car not only breathes better at lower speeds, but once at 80mph the ram air staretd to work and he got a mild boost,which consequently was the same speed that the 69-70 shaker got it's boost so speed may indeed have an effect on ram air.
Tim

What is a TW sgt1? I'm mental blocked on your abbreviations, but I think I get the picture. Glad you agree. This is not a flame! Bear with me here (no pun intended) Anyway, here's the deal. All an engine is, simply put, is an air pump. It sucks it in, compresses it, and spits it back out. The faster your engine is turning, the more air it needs. Just like the old muscle cars, the power band is starting to really crank at 80mph, and he has made it far easier for it to get the air it needs. The more efficient your "ram air" design is, the easier it is for the engine to suck it in- and the deeper in the power band you are, the more obvious it will feel.
Consider the internals of the operation: a crank is spinning at say 3000RPM so it makes 50 complete revolutions per second. And if we know that about the crank, we also know that the pistons are moving at that same speed, just in a different direction. If that is true, than the air in the chamber is being cycled at that same speed- every time the piston comes up to TDC and goes back down a set volume of air enters the chamber and is evacuated. If a hypothetical crank scribes an arc of, say, 4" radius, 50 times in a second, using a simple formula we can determine that if it were going strait instead of in a circle, it would cover over 657 feet per second, therefore over 39,438 feet per minute, therefore over 2,366,304 feet per hour, therefore over 448mph. Therefore, the engine is trying to suck air in at over 448MPH as well just to maintain the operation. How do you think that [air pushing air] into the engine at 80mph is going to affect that scenario? The only way to do it is with forced induction, and it isn't uncommon for a centrifugal blower to spin around 70,000 rpm. Compare that to the 3000RPM our hypothetical engine with the tiny 4" crank is pumping air, and see why they make so much boost. "Ram air" is a very cool sounding, yet inappropriate name for what is really just a more efficient cold air intake system.

 

[fordnatic]

I hate to open a dead thread however I am curious, what happens when it rains? Do you pull the water into your inlet tract? I'm interested in a ram air hood but my vert is a daily driver and WILL see rain unfortunately. Thanks - Peace all.

 

[_jb_]

I hate to open a dead thread however I am curious, what happens when it rains? Do you pull the water into your inlet tract? I'm interested in a ram air hood but my vert is a daily driver and WILL see rain unfortunately. Thanks - Peace all.

I've drove mine in the pooring rain, and have had no problems. The water trails will move to the side of the scoops.

 

[Scones]

This may sound shocking to many but we did a back to back test on the weight of my buddies Cervini cowl hood and a stock one.... they were EXACTLY the same 42lbs if I remember right

If you're gonna go with an aftermarket hood, and only want a nice cowl one, go with a Harwood....very light