I Need Input On Long Tube Headers For My '89 5.0

[HBGabe50320]

So, I'm getting ready to re-do the exhaust on my 1989 5.0. I'm looking for a good quality, 1-5/8", equal length, ceramic coated long tube headers. As far as I can tell, the only two companies that make headers to meet my criteria are Pace Setter and Mac. My first thought was to go with BBK, but it appears that the BBK headers are unequal length. I'd much rather have equal length for sound and scavenging purposes. The Mac headers look okay, but I really don't like that the primaries aren't flanged because I'm sure they're going to warp from the heat. I'm thinking about going with Pace Setter, but I'm concerned about the quality because I haven't found any feedback about their long tube fox body headers. Has anyone out there used them? I'd love to hear from you if you've used any Pace Setter products.

My Mustang is currently running Ford Racing unequal length shorties, so I know there's plenty of room for improvement there. I'm running AFR 185 heads with an X303 cam on a stock bottom end. About 8 years ago she put down 320 hp to the wheels, naturally aspirated. I'd like to see if I can squeeze some more horsepower out of her. I just know this motor would scream with joy if she had some full length headers bolted up.

Let me know what you think....

Gabe

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Of those choices, I'd choose the BBK's hands down over the Mac's and the Pace Setters......and that's exactly what I did.

I've never measure the primary's, but they seem equal length to me. Good quality header, for a reasonable price....which is more than I can say for the other two. I'm not sure how you think you'll notice a sound difference with any of them?

I have no experience with the Pace Setters, but their shorty's have never been considered a quality header. You are correct about the Macs though....they're garbage. Have had them in the past and never again.

 

[jrichker]

There are clearance problems associated with long tube headers, so look and ponder what you have and how much $$$ you want to spend. Due to the age, variety of mods and condition and quality of the parts you buy, you may experience some additional problems you didn't count on.

Be aware that most long tube header don't fit well with auto trans cars or a 5 speed with a Lakewood or other brand scatter shield bellhousing. Hammer and welding torch are required in cases like this if there are only small interference problems.

Ground clearance is another problem for cars with lowering kits or worn suspension. If you live in a area where the roads are poorly maintained or have lots of big potholes, you will also have problems. Park in a driveway or parking garage with the wrong slope on it and you will drag the exhaust. I used to work in downtown Orlando Fl. and if anything was loose under the car, I would hear it scrape when I went up the street entrance to the parking garage.

The other known problems are having difficulty installing them, I have heard that for some installations, the motor mounts have to be unbolted and jack up the engine to get them in place.

The steering shaft also poses clearance problems with some long tube headers. Be prepared to shell out about $240 for a Maximum Motor Sports steering shaft. MM is one of the very few that welds the u joints onto the shaft. All the rest use set screws which can loosen.

Also be prepared to spend some money on a mini starter or a heat shield because long tube headers tend to heat soak the starter. This makes the engine hard to crank when the car has been driven for some time and distance.

 

[84Ttop]

^^ This!

 

[5point0stang88]

I'm going against the grain. My Mac 1-5/8 header was easy to install from underneath, came with copper gaskets. Fitment is great (but did have to modify Mac Prochamber to fit because driver's header collector was angled different) no heat soaked starter. Fantastic ground clearance as well.

 

[revhead347]

BBK headers are the better quality choice. The Mac headers tend to be poor quality and warp. None of them truly have equal length primaries. Once you have done a few of them, they are actually really easy to install. There generally aren't any clearance problems with a manual transmission. The steering shaft clearance problems are only on Sn Mustangs and Mac headers.

Kurt

 

[89stang1]

Love my BBK longtubes! great sound great power one of the parts on my car i have not had any problems with over the years, im using stage 8 header locks too... also running afr 185 heads

 

[tamadrummer88]

I have Hooker long tubes with the removable sections. It was a pain. Gonna convert back soon to shorties.

 

[Killa]

I found BBK shorty fit perfectly, BTW while doing header, check the engine mount same time, some time it damage, made the header not fix correctly. Good to change it while u at it.

 

[tonydalrymple]

Another vote for BBK headers. My combo details: AFR185 heads, TKO600 trans, Lakewood bellhousing, & they are the 1&3\4" BBK long tubes. Fit like a glove; no fitment issues, period. One drawback; go slow over speed bumps since they will hit if you don't go over them at a crawl....

 

[revhead347]

There is a fix for that too. Run high port heads and they don't hit speed bumps anymore. And the money snowball just keeps rolling.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

I'm going against the grain. My Mac 1-5/8 header was easy to install from underneath, came with copper gaskets. Fitment is great (but did have to modify Mac Prochamber to fit because driver's header collector was angled different) no heat soaked starter. Fantastic ground clearance as well.

what year car and was/is it lowered?

I'm going to do a 351 in my 95 and pretty much decided on the BBk 1 3/4 LT's. Car is lowered. My friend has accufab 1 7/8's on a lowered car and has maybe 2 inches of clearance from the ground to bottom of header.

 

[from6to8]

There is a fix for that too. Run high port heads and they don't hit speed bumps anymore. And the money snowball just keeps rolling.

Kurt

what's up Kurt?

What would be the difference in high ports in relation to the headers not hitting anymore?

 

[jrichker]

@from6to8

High ports are just that - higher, further up from the head surface where it mates against the block. That makes the headers mount higher up and gives more ground clearance.

If you are doing a 351 swap, there are special swap headers needed due to the extra width of the 351 engine. Take that into consideration when selecting headers. The stock hood isn't going to clear either unless you do something with the hood, K member or motor mounts.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/i-need-a-very-specific-website.589036/ for details on a 302 to 351 swap. I highly recommend that you read this over several times before spending money on a 351 swap.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

what's up Kurt?

What would be the difference in high ports in relation to the headers not hitting anymore?

Dude! You are talking to ghosts. Look at the time line. The last activity on the thread is now over two years old.

 

[from6to8]

@from6to8

High ports are just that - higher, further up from the head surface where it mates against the block. That makes the headers mount higher up and gives more ground clearance.

If you are doing a 351 swap, there are special swap headers needed due to the extra width of the 351 engine. Take that into consideration when selecting headers. The stock hood isn't going to clear either unless you do something with the hood, K member or motor mounts.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/i-need-a-very-specific-website.589036/ for details on a 302 to 351 swap. I highly recommend that you read this over several times before spending money on a 351 swap.

Thanks and yes I have read up on and considered all of the mods, the headaches, and everything involved with doing the swap and it's what I want to do so I will just bite the bullet

I'm prepared to do what's neccessary and want to do it right once. If it costs more to do something the correct way the first time I'm all for it. And i will read over the link you provided just to see if there's anything I haven't read before. Are any one of you guys near charleston sc?

 

[jrichker]

Thanks and yes I have read up on and considered all of the mods, the headaches, and everything involved with doing the swap and it's what I want to do so I will just bite the bullet
I'm prepared to do what's neccessary and want to do it right once. If it costs more to do something the correct way the first time I'm all for it. And i will read over the link you provided just to see if there's anything I haven't read before. Are any one of you guys near charleston sc?

I'm glad that you are being diligent and are busy gathering information on the 351 swap. Do all of us a favor and start a build thread so that all of us can watch (lots of pictures) as you make progress towards a nicely completed swap

 

[from6to8]

I'm glad that you are being diligent and are busy gathering information on the 351 swap. Do all of us a favor and start a build thread so that all of us can watch (lots of pictures) as you make progress towards a nicely completed swap

I certainly wouldn't mind doing that if time permits..........Going to be hard trying to juggle work and everything else. My next thing that I'm thinking about is rather I want to stick with the stock k member or aftermarket. I have previously leaned toward the stock though I've read about the headaches of changing a starter or what have you but also have weighed how many damn times might I change the starter lol. And also it will be into next year before I even get my garage started. I need that complete before I get started on the build and other things. My current garage i don't want to clutter it up. So yes I have a while to gather more notes, ect. Also don't want to start ordering parts and clutter my current garage as it needs organizing right now

 

[General karthief]

My 89 has long tubes and recently changed to the newer style 5.0 starter. Not a big deal changing it, on my back, car on jack stands.

 

[from6to8]

My 89 has long tubes and recently changed to the newer style 5.0 starter. Not a big deal changing it, on my back, car on jack stands.

stock K member?

car lowered and how much? What kind of LT's and do you have a problem scraping?