I need performance help with my 87 2.3

We turbo'd a 4cyl. I would reccommend going through it really good. The bolts and factory gaskets are not even gonna hold anything like that. I used arp studs and serious gaskets after we basically blew up the factory ones for fun. Is it all factory parts? are they any mods at all..to the motor..

If you plan on throwing boost to the engine, you really need to replace the pistons, rods, and the crank. The stock cast parts will not hold up to much boost at all. As far as running n/a, there is not too much you can do without spending big bucks, but for some cheap ideas read through this site: Ford 2.3L Performance - HotRodHigh.ca. I know its mostly based around a ranger, but our engines are the same. For further information there are already alot of threads on this forum that discuss the issue of no power out of the 2.3. Hope this helps!

Wayyy back in '98, MM&FF flogged on a 2.3L Mustang for S&G. They put nitrous on it to see what they could make it do. They ended up going clear up to a 150 shot, were melting the plugs, but couldn't manage to blow up the engine.

Not that I'm implying that's recommended or anything.

The basics are the easiest. Bo Port and Esslinger both sell hydraulic cam kits for a decent price. Shaving the crap out of the head works well. You can take off .110" safely. Larger valves, a modified efi lower with the Esslinger adapter, 500cfm Holley, a decent header and exhaust, maybe some port work to the head and intake. Theres always finding a 98 ranger short block for a 2.5 stroker.


As for stock parts holding up, Ive been spinning these things to over 10,000 rpm for the past 12 years without seeing a stock crank so much as bend. That was on a 11:1 compression engine with a "STOCK" replacement head gasket and "STOCK" head bolts. I myself run a 2.5 turboed with 18#s of boost. I havent had any issues other than keeping the stupid Cometic head gasket sealed. Unless you have an original turbo short block I wouldnt try any more than a 50 hp shot of nitrous.

The only difference is that they run a crank trigger so there is no provision for the distributor. Depending on what year your car is that matters along with the fuel pump. You could easily (depending on your mechanical ability) swap the ranger internals to an older small main block. I wish I could get my hands on 98 ranger motors cheap.

Which one? Mine or the others?

Mine is pretty simple. Its a 2.5 with Crower sportsman rods, Weisco flat top pistons, turbo head mildly ported with a Crower .422 lift cam, stock roller rockers, still hydraulic, mildly ported lower, gutted upper, ported stock exhaust manifold with a stock turbo. I have a pretty big Volvo intercooler and a polished stock throttle body with the blade shaved.

The others have been modded to death. One of them is a RACE 2.7 stroker with Honda Journal H beam rods, CP flat top pistons, D port turbo head shaved .125" set up for a .621 solid roller and 1.89 in. and 1.6 exhaust valves, completely modified stock intake as thats all they can run in the class, a full length header and 3" exhaust with a cone muffler. They run a C&S 500 cfm carb.

Another one is pretty mild, its a 2.5, 5.7 rods CP flat top pistons, oval port head, ported, solid flat set up with a .510 lift crane cam. The head was shaved .125" and it too has the larger valves and the modified intake along with a 500cfm Holley carb..

A good nitrous motor would be a stock 2.3 turbo bottom end, ported oval port head, efi lower, stock cam and a 75 shot. Its only gonna turn 6500 rpm but itll be a fun 6500 rpm.