robbz28,
After fabbing my own clutch master setup, I must say that the Modern Driveline master cylinder setup is slicker than snot. A tiny bit over priced, but I guess when considering the R&D that must have gone into it, not too bad and I would likely have sprung the $$$ for it if it were available at the time. On the other hand, I do NOT like their slave setup! Where it fastens to the bell housing is a very thin/weak spot, IMHO, and WAY overpriced. I have a different design that uses the bolts that fasten the transmission to the bell housing, similar to DaysCars bracket for the Tremec 3550, TKO 500/600.
DazeCars, For Sale Page
I do not like his bracket listed for the T5, as it bolts to the 2 little, flimsy tabs on the side of the transmission, like many other brand T5 slave kits. I can hook you up with one of my brackets that utilizes a late 80s to early 90s chebbie pickup slave ($35-$55 depending on your source) and all you need to do is plumb it and make you own rod out of 3/8" stainless threaded rod. I don't want this to be construed as a for sale post, so PM me if you'd like me to hook you up. My slave setup is FAR superior to anything currently on the market, I simply haven't had the time or $$$ to put together complete kits for sale, but I will soon.
On a different note, I suggest that you:
A> Get a "NEW" clutch fork and pivot (pretty cheap on fleabay)
AND
B>When you are ready to install
1>Pre-assemble bell housing/clutch fork to the transmission and install it to the engine that way, as it is very easy to knock the clutch fork clip off the ball/pivot (and possibly damaging it) when stabbing the transmission the traditional way.
2>If working by yourself, installation can be aided/eased by threading in 4 lengths of all thread (the longest that your trans tunnel will allow) into the 2 lower bell housing bolt holes on each side and sliding the bell housing/transmission assembly home using them for alignment and help with holding the weight.
C>I think the jury is still out on whether or not to remove your under dash clutch pedal spring. On the one hand, leaving it on reduces the amount of foot pressure needed to push the pedal, after the pedal is depressed 1-2 ". On the other hand, when you push the pedal all the way to the floor, it almost feels as though it almost wants to stay there. It doesn't actually "stick down", per se, just feels a tiny bit un-natural. I rarely find the need to push the pedal to the floor so I appreciate the assistance.
Even with your current gears, you will love your T5, especially with a hydraulic setup.
Happy Motoring,
Gene