I need to vent!!!

HoofnIt · Jun 14, 2004

I started removing my stock H pipe today and what I thought would be a pretty easy task turned out to be quite difficult. I put a cat-back on last year so I knew those nuts would be OK. First issue, one of the studs came out of the header collector! Second issue is the aluminum tubing that goes into the back of the H pipe would not come out!!! I ended up using a dremel tool to cut it off.

Once the H pipe was out I tried to get the nut off the stud but to no avail! I sprayed the crap out of it with WD40 and I'll try again tomorrow. Any other suggestions? I got under the car again to get the rest of the tubing out and have had no luck. The clamp is loose but it will not budge! You think a propane torch would help? Any ideas?

95snoozer · Jun 14, 2004

are you getting an ORH?
cut that aluminum pipe to pieces and cap it with a rubber cap

propane torches and gas lines dont mix

cant help you on the nut

Nik_95Cobra · Jun 14, 2004

What exactly are you having trouble with on the nut? If it's just the stud that came out, put it in a vice and get the nut off, then thread two of the nuts back on the stud and thread it into the collector, then tightning the top nut until it's tight. Then back the two nuts off and the stud will be in nice and tight. Just spray all the connections and nuts and it should be easy. We go through this type of stuff all the time @ our shop.

HoofnIt · Jun 14, 2004

I have to stay emissions legal so I am replacing the stocker with a Magnafllow catted X pipe. I do not have a vice but the stock h pipe is out and sitting on my garage floor. The stud is currently sitting in the collector hole with the nut on the end of it. I thought I could heat it with a torch and try to break it loose. The factory stud has a 5/8" nut cast into it so I won't have to double any nuts up to get it back in.

The tubing is a different story. I wouldn't dream of heating anything with a torch is any gas or brake lines were present. The tube in question just carries air from the air pump and dumps it into the rear cats. I need to salvage the end of this tube as it will mate up with the end that is on the Magnaflow piece. THX

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

Use PB Blaster instead of WD-40. We use it on aircraft and it penetrates far better. as for using a torch to pursuade it, use a wet towel to cover your fuel lines, or simply point the flame away from the fuel lines. If I recall correctly, the fuel lines are up against the frame rail and should not be a factor. Just be aware they are there. good luck

Rerun · Jun 14, 2004

Estimated time to complete task + 3 hours = Actual time to complete task.

Pretty much the formula I use prior to doing something to my car. Even the simplest tasks seem to take forever.

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

Use PB Blaster instead of WD-40. We use it on aircraft and it penetrates far better. as for using a torch to pursuade it, use a wet towel to cover your fuel lines, or simply point the flame away from the fuel lines. If I recall correctly, the fuel lines are up against the frame rail and should not be a factor. Just be aware they are there.

HoofnIt · Jun 14, 2004

Where do you get PB Blaster at? I have never heard of it. I don't think there are any lines that will be in my way because the tubing runs along the middle of the car. Thanks for the precautions as I will keep them in mind.

It's times like these that make me wonder why I even attempt such tasks. I can only imagine what kind of problems I will encounter when I start the HCI swap...ARRRGGHH!

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

Rerun said:
Estimated time to complete task + 3 hours = Actual time to complete task.

Pretty much the formula I use prior to doing something to my car. Even the simplest tasks seem to take forever.

Isn't that the truth.
here's another formula: Estimated time to complete task + 3 kids under your feet = insanity

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

I Know NAPA carries it (at least around here) I think I saw it a Wal-mart. It is in a white spray can with red and yellow writing all over.

cmozez · Jun 14, 2004

I do industrial maintenance and I can verify that PB Blaster is a god send. Spray the stuff down and let it sit as long as possible, then just wrench it off

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

doesn't get any better, does it? PB Blaster is the best I've seen

HoofnIt · Jun 14, 2004

Do most autoparts ie. Checker, PepBoys, Autozone, etc. carry PB Blaster?

viperos · Jun 14, 2004

what do you mean, "emissions legal"? I live in a fairly strict emissions area, but use an O/R H on my stang... sounds great, get respect from the local cops (I know it's weird, but I've seen it work...) and, every 2 years, I just pop on my stock catted H again, for emissions passing...

grumpyemt · Jun 14, 2004

HoofnIt said:
Do most autoparts ie. Checker, PepBoys, Autozone, etc. carry PB Blaster?

If they don't, they should. They probally do (you may have to ask)

HazMat404 · Jun 14, 2004

Rerun said:
Estimated time to complete task + 3 hours = Actual time to complete task.

Pretty much the formula I use prior to doing something to my car. Even the simplest tasks seem to take forever.

aaaaaahahaha....ur avatar. if they only knew

i use liquid wrench and that stuff has never failed me. letting it sit more than 15 min is pointless cause all penatrating liquids are designed to work within the first 5 min and are basically done within 15. you can apply it every 15 min or so to get it in there the best but you need something other than wd40 cause that stuff is only a lubricant and not a penitrater (startin to get dirty ). i think a vise along with a penatrating liquid and maybe someone that is stronger than you (kidding ) and it shoudl come off easily.

btw, i get dirty looks by all the cops in my area (bunch of stupid rich people so they complain a lot) but i havent gotten pulled over in a long time for just my exhaust.....best first mod you can do to a stang cause sound makes the car right along with looks

67stang390 · Jun 14, 2004

My time estimates are usually whatever it should take to complete times two. Same goes with cost estimates. Good luck!

mo_dingo · Jun 14, 2004

So I assume that the stud is all of the way out of the header flange, right?

Just get a machine-thread screw, two fender washers, two lock washers, a nut & use that instead of the stud.

I had the same exact problem with one of the passenger side nut/stud.

Use the stud to approximate the length/width of the screw you will need and get it from ace hardware. Remember the stud screws into the flange but doesn't go past it, so you will need the screw to be a 1/2" longer. The width of the screw should be smaller than the inside of the stud's threads. Meaning you want the screw to be able to slide in and out of the hole of the header flange & the x-pipe flange.

I ended up getting a slightly too long screw, so I ran the screw through the x-pipe flange through to the header flange, with the nut on the top-side of the header flange.
Scott

HoofnIt · Jun 14, 2004

Thanks for all of the suggestions; you guys are great! Here is a pic of the stud in question.

Venom351R · Jun 14, 2004

viperos said:
what do you mean, "emissions legal"? I live in a fairly strict emissions area, but use an O/R H on my stang... sounds great, get respect from the local cops (I know it's weird, but I've seen it work...) and, every 2 years, I just pop on my stock catted H again, for emissions passing...

I take it that he lives in CA, the cops out there are not as cool about O/R H pipes.

I need to vent!!!

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