I ordered my Vortech SQ S Trim!

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Nov 10, 2004

#21

• Nov 10, 2004

• #21

The kit should come with everythiing you need to bolt it on...

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#22

• Nov 12, 2004

• #22

Any more tips?

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#23

• Nov 14, 2004

• #23

Little update, the kit should be here tomorrow and i've been doing some work to get some steps out of the way. I got the oil pan tapped, new 3923 plugs in, I changed out all of my injector pintle caps and O rings because most of my caps were cracked (some cracked so bad that when i pulled the injector out the caps and spacer stayed in the hole )I got the balancer pulled since I bought a romac ultra light balancer, removed the pulleys, removed the alternator and bracket, removed the charcol cannister.

Tomorrow im hopefully gonna install and wire up the T rex and maybe put all the new oil fittings in and mount the FMU if I have time. I just ordered an asp smog pump eliminator and an autometer phantom boost gauge.

What do you guys think, install the BTM with timing set to 10* and BTM on 1.5* or just pull the spout and lock the timing @ 17* total?

 

OutLawSE

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#24

• Nov 14, 2004

• #24

First,

The Vortech kits come with a Boost BTM. Thats means you can lock the timing high and then pull it back under boost. The BTM is a ignition box that retards timing under boost.

I would set it to +30 locked (Spout Out) and set the BTM to 1.5 to start. You'll have plenty of bottom end power thanks to the high timing and mid/upper will have the boost to help it. Figure, you are probably only gonna see around 6psi with your heads, so with 30 degrees base, you will be at 21 degrees under boost. 20 Degrees is safe for a 302 with 10psi.

I suggest a SFI balancer and a ignition box. Spark blow-out is a PITA and added tension from the blower belt on the #1 main bearing will be greatly reduced with a SFI balancer.

One more thing, after you get the Vortech installed, be patience. You have to take the time to tune. Don't just take it out and beat on it without tuning cause bad things will happen.

Good Luck!!!!

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#25

• Nov 14, 2004

• #25

Yeah I bought a romac ultra light race balancer. I think i'll be seeing at least 8psi as is. I know my friend had a similar set up (h/c/i 304 (.020" over)) and he saw about 10psi before the power pipe.

Yeah, im not gonna go out right away and abuse it. I'll def get on it a little, but no 6000rpm through every gear right away I'll probably just set it back to 10* with the spout and run the BTM @ 1.5*. safety is more of a concern than fancy dyno numbers. I know I could tune it aggressive and hit 500rwhp, but im not looking to do that, i'd prefer a safe tuned 450hp.

Mike

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

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Nov 14, 2004

#26

• Nov 14, 2004

• #26

grn, couple questions for you, where did you get the orings and pintle caps for the injectors? And how much did you pay for the charger from this place?
thanks

 

Grn92LX

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#27

• Nov 15, 2004

• #27

The caps and O rings I got from pep boys. I think its part # 274081. Its a borg warner #. Its $2.49 a kit.

For the Vortech, the price for the kit was $2249 + the 30lb FMU recal disk and shipping.

 

2000xp8

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Nov 15, 2004

#28

• Nov 15, 2004

• #28

Grn92LX said:

The caps and O rings I got from pep boys. I think its part # 274081. Its a borg warner #. Its $2.49 a kit.

For the Vortech, the price for the kit was $2249 + the 30lb FMU recal disk and shipping.

Click to expand...

Is that a special price or is that the norm now, i had heard sales finally became slow on the 87-93 5.0 kits and they where lowering the price to 2300, but this is the first i'v actually seen of it. What section of pepboys where the caps and orings in? At the local one, they guys won't even know what that stuff is.
Thanks

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#29

• Nov 15, 2004

• #29

Theres also a $100 rebate once you mail in the receipt, so technically, its $2149. For the caps and O rings, just give the counter person the part # and have them look for it. Don't even attempt to ask them if they have injector pintle caps and O rings, just hand them the part # so your not their all damn day.

 

93 teal terror

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Jul 13, 2001

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#30

• Nov 15, 2004

• #30

So whens it supposed to get here....I want pics

 

colemanitis

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Nov 15, 2004

#31

• Nov 15, 2004

• #31

So, did you get it???

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#32

• Nov 15, 2004

• #32

e

 

colemanitis

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Nov 15, 2004

#33

• Nov 15, 2004

• #33

Grn92LX said:

Yeah I got it. I just picked it up from UPS an hour ago. Heres a few pics: http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=217763474

Click to expand...

I can't see your pics... I get this message:

You do not appear to be the owner of this album.
Make sure you are logged in.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#34

• Nov 15, 2004

• #34

e

 

S

stangbro01

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#35

• Nov 15, 2004

• #35

a few answers

1. yes the 50's will work on a stock ecu, just make sure they are high impedence, but for the power you are shootin for id go with 42's

2. for the pcv you can go to the local autozone & pick up a 1 way check valve in the help! section, hook this into the pcv line, make sure you cant blow into the crank but you can into the upper intake.

good luck

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#36

• Nov 15, 2004

• #36

I went with a turbocoupe/mustang svo pcv valve. If I want to totally ditch the fmu, 50's are my true best bet. W/O a tuning device I highly doubt that they'll idle good with the eec. I am set on 30's and the FMU for now. Im just debating if i'm going to use the T rex pump or not. Tomorrow i'll see what I can get done with the time I have after work.

Mike

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Nov 16, 2004

#37

• Nov 16, 2004

• #37

ttt for the day crew

 

tunedin302

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Nov 16, 2004

#38

• Nov 16, 2004

• #38

Yup, can't see pics either.

 

TT91

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May 23, 2003

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Nov 16, 2004

#39

• Nov 16, 2004

• #39

post pics dammit, they are no where to be found on that website.

 

D

Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004

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#40

• Nov 16, 2004

• #40

Grn92LX said:

No, i'd like to shoot for around 11.5:1 for safety. Remember, a dynojet doesnt load the chassis like it would be loaded on the street so its really leaner than the dyno reads. IMO, 12.5:1 with my combo is too lean for my taste. I know what a blown head gasket is like from when I blew one on nitrous and its not fun. I'll take the "rich" a/f for safety.

Click to expand...

Sorry for not getting back. I'd forgotten that I'd begun a conversation in this thread. 11.5:1 should be a fine start (for safety) but I think you'll find that you'll be tuning it a bit leaner as you go. All the gray/blue smoke coming out of the tail pipes at WOT might change your mind. It sounds as if you plan on doing the tuning yourself. Are you purchasing an AFR meter?