i wouldnt completely trust parts stores, buy yourself a factory service manual for peace of mind, thats what i did! they go for about 60-70 on ebay, definately worth the price.
places like autozone has the same part number for a cobra and gt flywheel
The last one I did was on the fox and I didnt even touch the crossmember. I just carefully used a jack to support (and slightly raise) the trans while I was R/Ring the mount. Took but a few minutes.
Good luck.
i wouldnt completely trust parts stores, buy yourself a factory service manual for peace of mind, thats what i did! they go for about 60-70 on ebay, definately worth the price.
I wanna toss out something I see here
N O T say this is the problem
or
N O T even saying this is a problem
I do see the same clutch being used in both applications
where vibes are an issue
btw ... I was looking in my Ford Service Manual last night and could
not find any reference to a difference between the flywheel on a
GT or Cobra
Grady
Bringing this one back and to the top
fiveoho ... I wanted to make sure you saw this info by Barney
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=655733
He is a good guy and we have helped each other in the past
several times with self tuning issues
I've found his input to be not only interesting but helpful as well :Word:
Grady
let me read this thread and see what all is said. i appreciate you remembering my problem and tryin to help out.
quick question just for my peace of mind: i do still have some vibration but not as bad ( i think the poly trans mount is coming off next ). with the new flywheel installed and a new balancer installed, i should not have to worry about my crank or main bearings now?
No Prob at all my friend
I really don't think the poly trans mount causes a prob that could damage anything myself. But like all other mounts where you could go from rubber to a material that is more dense ... more nvh has to be tramsmitted over to the surrounding metal that contains the mount.
I would want to find what ever is causing the vibes because as you have said,
the vibes, even though smaller now, could cause some kind of damage over a period of time.
Bottom Line Here Is ... It just ain't supposed to shake, rattle, or roll
Good Luck
Grady
final5-0 said:Bringing this one back and to the top
fiveoho ... I wanted to make sure you saw this info by Barney
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=655733
He is a good guy and we have helped each other in the past
several times with self tuning issues
I've found his input to be not only interesting but helpful as well
Grady
One of the observations that I had when I was looking for my vibration was that the tranny mount did make a difference. When I did the AODE to T5 conversion I didn't have the manual tranny exhaust bracket so I had to turn and slot my tranny crossmember to get the tranny mount to fit. Even with that, I had to install all of the tranny mount bolts loosly then torque everything down and that put enough stress on the tranny mount to separate the rubber from the metal. After reading some posts from people that have fixed their vibration issues by going from their poly mount back to the rubber mount, I decided to loosen the tranny mount and take off some of the stress. Surprisingly, the vibration came in at lower RPMs and went away at about 4000 RPM.
I ended up modifying my AODE bracket to look like the T5 bracket to keep the same geometry as stock and replaced the tranny mount with a new stock one. Now everything sits as it was supposed to and the tranny mount isn't under extra stress changing its damping characteristics.
The source of my vibration problem was an seriously imbalanced flywheel but I agree with Grady and The_Mustang that it would be worth a half hour under the car to try out a stock mount.
Grady, thanks for the ego boost. It's nice to be interested in my car again and checking out the forums.
Barney
Chiming in here.
I also went thru this exact problem.
My first major problem was the flywheel.
Then the balancer cleaned it up a little more.
I was being cheap and didnt wanna replace my 10k miles dual centerforce clutch setup since it was still working great.
But sure as ****....and common sense should have directed me here.
Think about it.....you have a wobbly flywheel vibrating to hell,the clutch disk is taking that abuse as well as the pressure plate.
So..............now one or the other are m ost likely comprimised.
in your cases prlly the resurface was poor.Mine sure was.
You prly have a warped pressure plate......or the disc.
Mine stoped as soon as I changed the clutch.
The trans dont have enough rotating mass to cause a vibration in the motor at nuetral.
Although the input shaft will always spin because its in the flywheel and the flywheel is bolted to the motor.....
IN nuetral basicly only the front parts of the tranny are spinning which is the input shaft and a few small gears.
I also have poly motor mounts and poly trans and poly everything.
You could see the vibration in my steering wheel intensly when the motor vibrated at those certian rpms.
just to ease your worries...
if your crank was bent.........the vibration would get worse as rpms climb...you prly drive thru the vibrations after 3k 4k rpms right?
So..........that reallly leaves nothing more to guess.
You may have had the dowel pins put in a hair cocked or one of the bolts cross threaded ,could be a loose bell bolt even...check the upper bolts on the tranny for tightness and all the bolts for that matter.
If you feel the vibration in your shifter in neutral.Its something I just mentioned according to what you been thru.
Ill give odds that your pressplate/clutch disc are the cause
this is interesting
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html...gine/first_order_engine.htm#Crankshaft Pulley
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