Got a new cap & rotor, but no one has a replacement reluctor in stock - have to wait until Tuesday. I hope the PIP is still good.
The distributor cap is weird, there are what seem to be oil droplets all over the inside. I thought it was water at first, but it's a bit oily. Doesn't feel like motor oil though, and it's completely clear. It's only on the cap, too; the rest of the inside of the dizzy is bone dry (but covered in rust flakes). The distributor shaft doesn't wiggle at all, but if it was motor oil leaking in I would expect there to be oil everywhere. Any ideas? This is new to me.
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
groovygroveone
New Member
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
groovygroveone
New Member
Ever who had the car before might have had his(her) mechanic spray it with w-d 40,which keeps moisture from build'g up in the cap. When metal gets hot and cools down it sweats,thats why it's so rusty!
Ever who had the car before might have had his(her) mechanic spray it with w-d 40,which keeps moisture from build'g up in the cap. When metal gets hot and cools down it sweats,thats why it's so rusty!
An interesting idea, but unlikely. I put in that distributor and cap myself, and no one but myself has touched the car since then. Thanks for the idea tho.
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
I guess I could paint it, but a replacement one is $10 - not worth my time to bother with paint. The distributor cap was kinda loose; I couldn't lift it up, but I could wiggle it back and forth. So it's possible something got in there.
That's a lot of rust meaning it's got moisture from somewhere. Usually the cap is a tight seal unless you went through a huge puddle and the car shut off. You can spray electra clean in there to clean off the electronics, blow some air to dry.
99FiveOh
15 Year Member
Well even with all that rust on the wheel it'll still trigger the pickup coil regardless. It would have to be rusted to almost dust before it would pose a problem. Then it would probably be a miss and not a "no start" situation.
Finally got off my @$$ and replaced the reluctor wheel. The battery was a bit worn down, but after a few cranks the engine started right up and settled down quickly. I'm glad it was just the reluctor wheel, I need a car to drive until I get the new LCA's for my GT. In case you missed it:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looks-line-i-need-new-rear-lower-control-arms.858890/
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looks-line-i-need-new-rear-lower-control-arms.858890/
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