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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Electrical I Think I Know Why My Cobra Clone Won't Start...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chythar
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2012

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 3, 2012
#1
  • Mar 3, 2012
  • #1


Got a new cap & rotor, but no one has a replacement reluctor in stock - have to wait until Tuesday. I hope the PIP is still good.

The distributor cap is weird, there are what seem to be oil droplets all over the inside. I thought it was water at first, but it's a bit oily. Doesn't feel like motor oil though, and it's completely clear. It's only on the cap, too; the rest of the inside of the dizzy is bone dry (but covered in rust flakes). The distributor shaft doesn't wiggle at all, but if it was motor oil leaking in I would expect there to be oil everywhere. Any ideas? This is new to me.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Mar 4, 2012
#2
  • Mar 4, 2012
  • #2
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
 

groovygroveone

New Member
Mar 4, 2012
8
0
1
Axton,Va.
Mar 4, 2012
#3
  • Mar 4, 2012
  • #3
NotA4.6 said:
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
Click to expand...
 

groovygroveone

New Member
Mar 4, 2012
8
0
1
Axton,Va.
Mar 4, 2012
#4
  • Mar 4, 2012
  • #4
Ever who had the car before might have had his(her) mechanic spray it with w-d 40,which keeps moisture from build'g up in the cap. When metal gets hot and cools down it sweats,thats why it's so rusty!
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 5, 2012
#5
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #5
groovygroveone said:
Ever who had the car before might have had his(her) mechanic spray it with w-d 40,which keeps moisture from build'g up in the cap. When metal gets hot and cools down it sweats,thats why it's so rusty!
Click to expand...

An interesting idea, but unlikely. I put in that distributor and cap myself, and no one but myself has touched the car since then. Thanks for the idea tho.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 5, 2012
#6
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #6
NotA4.6 said:
Why do you need to replace the reluctor wheel? Can't you just blast or wire wheel it off and hit it with a thin coat of paint to keep it from rusting? No ideas on your "oily substance" issue. Maybe something you sprayed on the engine got in there? Like silicone or maybe belt dressing? who knows..
Click to expand...

I guess I could paint it, but a replacement one is $10 - not worth my time to bother with paint. The distributor cap was kinda loose; I couldn't lift it up, but I could wiggle it back and forth. So it's possible something got in there.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,679
424
154
Boca Raton, Florida
Mar 5, 2012
#7
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #7
That's a lot of rust meaning it's got moisture from somewhere. Usually the cap is a tight seal unless you went through a huge puddle and the car shut off. You can spray electra clean in there to clean off the electronics, blow some air to dry.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Mar 5, 2012
#8
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #8
Well even with all that rust on the wheel it'll still trigger the pickup coil regardless. It would have to be rusted to almost dust before it would pose a problem. Then it would probably be a miss and not a "no start" situation.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 7, 2012
#9
  • Jul 7, 2012
  • #9
Finally got off my @$$ and replaced the reluctor wheel. The battery was a bit worn down, but after a few cranks the engine started right up and settled down quickly. I'm glad it was just the reluctor wheel, I need a car to drive until I get the new LCA's for my GT. In case you missed it:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looks-line-i-need-new-rear-lower-control-arms.858890/
 
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