I think my car has the impression I'm mad of money

DMAN302

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Nov 8, 2003
2,120
2
59
windsor, Canada
#1
I think my car has the impression I'm made of money

Well another update on my project...I have taken a week of vacation with the intent of working on the car and getting her ready for a weekend of local racing and having a general good time. Anyways the list was to include upper and lower control arms, ball joints, new spring insolators (seemed like a good time). Well the list seems easy enough, but soon turns into a MAJOR project...not surprised, but thought I'd as stated update those who enjoy reading of anothers pain.
Anyway as it stands...the upper and lower control arm install was a PAIN..took 7-8 hours when you include the removal of the axle bushings, and their instalation...(25$ and a huge pain). Next came the sad realization that the rear shocks were DONE..DONE...compress with no effort and not rebounding...very bad. New shocks needed (70$). Now I move to the front end...remove ball joint...no problem, intall...pain in the ass keeping them from installing at an angle, but soon after installed no problem. Now the bad news...outer and inner bearings DONE..($50...oh wait forgot gease and seals...back to store for another $25). Alright almost done now, oh but wait, should I be able to compress the strut with my hand...and if I do shouln't the strut rebound...hmm not good!!. Back to the store for YUP new struts (monroe...$85 each). Well seems I've reached a point where I can start to return all the parts to their correct spots and retorque...tomorrow, I'm done for the day. I have not totalled up the additional expenses of my project, but needless to say I have once again gone over budet!! :D . Goodnews is I have had the pleasure of learing once again more than I wanted too, but at the same time improved my little girl. Am I having fun??...actaully yeah I am.
 
#2
Should also add...just for the fun of it...damaged brake line from the body to the differential (65$!!!! nice eh)..will be installed later this week when wife has time to assit me in bleeding lines..that alone will cost me God knows how much!! ;) .
 
#3
Talk about a relaxing vacation. :p

I had a similar experience with the '88 when I got it. I went to do a rack and ended up with the front stripped to the frame. :(

Good luck with getting it all back together Derek. I am sure it will be worth it!
 
#5
The only part I am avoiding JT is the rack, even though shes weeping like a pig..I am putting the Outter tie rods in a drawer to be brought out this winter..to go on the new rack. I think to finish this yr out and in keeping costs down I will leave the rack, and in doing so avoid the alignment shop as well..saving me at least 200 some odd dollars that don't need to be spent RIGHT now for the rack and alignment.
 
#7
Sounds like a plan Derek. That is a good project for winter anyhow - and for when you are not getting sick of working on the car.

Gary, We got it. I thought you were going in a different direction when I read "down".
 
#8
Well Hissin' , I probably should thank you for clearing that up for DMAN. I just remember reading in a earlier post he needs to "learn" how to bleed the brakes. Not knowing how means he wouldn't get the DOWN UP commands and echo in the bleeding process.

I was going "braking" direction like you suspected and had no other "direction" in mind. I didn't consider the possible misconception...Thanks for the support. :)
 
#9
We did get it Gary, thanks for the humorous addition. Not that I'm tired of working on the car JT, actually that's one of the reasons I did buy it. Just get a little frustrated when a small project transforms it self into a major ordeal. However upon completion of each "ordeal" I do feel a nice sense of pride, and a little more faith in my little girlsl (car that is) condition. Good to hear from you again JT...really hope to be on the road by thursday..I'd update later, though you may be tired of hearing my rants :cheers:
 
#10
garystocker said:
Well Hissin' , I probably should thank you for clearing that up for DMAN. I just remember reading in a earlier post he needs to "learn" how to bleed the brakes. Not knowing how means he wouldn't get the DOWN UP commands and echo in the bleeding process.

I was going "braking" direction like you suspected and had no other "direction" in mind. I didn't consider the possible misconception...Thanks for the support. :)
Click to expand...
I am sure Derek got it as you intended. That really was what I thought at first - I have my mind in the gutter.

Your commands are the way I do it too - followed by things like: 'So when you say up, can i immediately put the pedal up?' And the occasional instance of me not having the bleed-screw tightened and the pedal somehow getting released to the top. :D
 
#11
Good stuff Derek. I hear ya all the way.

It is an interesting dichotomy - the time I spend on here could be spent wrenching. :bang:
 
#15
Here's the answer to keep from developing frustrations with your G/F or wife - they get upset when you yell at them while bleeding the brakes.

Garden Sprayer Pressure Bake Bleeder

1 each pump type garden sprayer, 1 - 1 ½ gallon capacity (size doesn’t matter much, it just has to be cheap and small enough to be easy to work with)
6-10 feet 3/8” clear plastic tubing
1 each ¼” brass pipe tee
1 each ¼” pipe to 3/8: hose adapter
1 each pressure gauge 0-60 PSI or so – all you’ll ever need is 5- 10 PSI, so the gauge range doesn’t have to be high.
1 each large rubber stopper – this is the hard part to find. It may take some searching to find one that is a snug push fit to the inside of the filler port on the master cylinder. You can use silicone rubber to seal a brass fitting to an old master cylinder cap, but they tend to leak too much.
Home Depot or Lowes has some ¼” brass pipe stock that is continuously threaded in the electric lamp repair department, along with the brass nuts that go with it. This is better than a pipe nipple, since the nuts can be used to secure the pipe in the cap or stopper.
OR if you can’t find the threaded pipe stock,
1 each ¼” nipple, 1 ½”- 2” long

The rubber stopper needs a hole drilled in it for the ¼” pipe nipple or threaded pipe stock. After you drill the hole, use some silicone gasket sealer to seal the pipe nipple as you push it into the rubber stopper. If you used the threaded pipe stock, use the nuts to secure the stock into the stopper.

If you can’t find a suitable rubber stopper, an old master cylinder cap can be used. Drill a ½” hole in the center for the pipe fitting. Cut the brass pipe stock to about 1”- 1 ½” long, the exact length isn’t too important. Push it through the hole in the master cylinder cap and thread one nut on top of the pipe stock where it sticks though the cap. Put another nut on the other side of the cap to lock the pipe stock in place. Apply some silicone rubber gasket sealer to both sides and when it is dry, screw the ¼” pipe that sticks out of the top of the cap into the tee.

Remove the sprayer hose and wand from the garden sprayer. You may find it easier just to cut the sprayer hose off short and connect it to the 3/8” plastic tubing. The idea is that the 3/8” tubing connects to the pickup tube inside the sprayer in a reliable, leak proof fashion. Another alternative is to remove the spray nozzle from the end of the spray wand and connect the 3/8” tubing to the wand. This leaves the hand valve in place and may be useful to start/stop the flow of brake fluid.

The 3/8” plastic tubing connects to the pipe tee using a push on hose barb type adapter. The pipe tee has one port for the gauge, one for the 3/8” hose and the other to connect to the rubber stopper or master cylinder cap that you modified.

Fill the pump sprayer with a quart of brake fluid. Set the garden sprayer on the ground and screw the pump handle down tight, and pump until brake fluid fills the plastic tubing. Then put the modified stopper or master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and pump slowly to make sure that nothing leaks or pops loose. No leaks, continue pumping until you get 5-10 PSI. Put a 6”-12” length of clear plastic tubing on the bleeder ports. Then open the bleeder ports on the wheel cylinders one at a time and bleed until the bubbles are gone. I use a 2 liter soda bottle with a coat hanger to catch the fluid . DO NOT REUSE THE OLD BRAKE FLUID. Repeat the process until you have finished all 4 wheels. You will have to pump the sprayer several times to maintain the 5-10 PSI needed to do the job. When finished bleeding, loosen the pump handle to relieve the pressure, remove the stopper/modified master cylinder cap and test the pedal.
 
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