I think we need a drag racing link?
- Thread starter steel1212
- Start date
thehueypilot
Active Member
I ask drag racing questions on this site and there are a few classic Mustang drag racers here that are very knowledgeable. Even at the track there are very few classic Mustangs that are racing.
I think it a good idea, but yeah, just not many of us. Most are satisfied with throwing on lakewoods and slicks, if slicks. But some us here want to get stupid, too. Biggest thing is the guys whole generally go fast in these cars have serious drag cars. 4-link or ladder bar setup and couldn't tell you the first thing on geting a stock suspension to hook. There is alot more support in the 5.0 world because of all the classes it has, to include people getting stupid with stock suspension, ie Big Daddy.
302 coupe
Founding Member
brianj5600
Active Member
12sec67
Active Member
302 coupe
Founding Member
you could call it the "tired of seeing the same old questions and ready for some actual new tech" forum.
Oh yeah, whats the biggest tire/wheel I can fit on a 66 coupe? LOL.......
Oh yeah, whats the biggest tire/wheel I can fit on a 66 coupe? LOL.......
CochinoFilipino
Founding Member
Considering all the 'Talk' threads posted in Tech and that the 'Tech FAQ' sticky is in Talk ,,,,,, I think there should be just one Classic Section.
I think Brian is right. Make a sticky. No questions about " What should I use." Only questions about the information that is there already. " With that cam, how did you leave the line ?" We need sticky's here. A sticky some of can use. No offense, it's cool and all, but I will never put a classic shell on a newer vehicle.
RaSMG
Founding Member
i love stangnet as much as the next guy .. for certain stuff like if i need opinions on x-pipe vs h-pipe general stang tech/chat. but when it comes to real tech info and experience related to vintage ford straight line racing .. sorry for advertising another forum, but ..
www.mustangsandmore.com
the forums are FILLED with info, mostly the 'ford racing' and 'classic' forums. real experienced technical information, mostly related to high performance tuning and/or racing, and mostly focuses on straight line draggin. at least more than any other 'mustang' forum with a 'classic' or 'high performance' section.
www.mustangsandmore.com
the forums are FILLED with info, mostly the 'ford racing' and 'classic' forums. real experienced technical information, mostly related to high performance tuning and/or racing, and mostly focuses on straight line draggin. at least more than any other 'mustang' forum with a 'classic' or 'high performance' section.
1320stang
Founding Member
I check out that site from time to time, but I like Stangnet better. Kind of wished you wouldn't have posted the site though, the guy your talking about that is probably the most experienced used to be the moderator here, until the powers that be pulled his mod status. They did the right thing in doing so as he was being a real jerk (to put it mildly). The guy that owns and operates the sight used to be a member here as well. (I guess they're both still members, just not active.)
http://forums.stangnet.com/member.php?u=4706
http://forums.stangnet.com/member.php?u=4872
I met MM at WFC2 in Joliet. He was a little arrogant, it's a little more wild west over there at M&M. Most of what I've seen regarding Stangnet over there is bashing .
That said, I have no problem with people asking questions or even being members of multiple forums. Not everyone is a member at all forums and many do not have time to answer questions in multiple forum, but I don't see where bashing someone does any good. MM is a very knowledgeable person, especially when it comes to more stock styled suspensions, but you kind of have to get to know him to be able to put up with him in my opinion.
I kind of have it easy when it comes to chassis questions as my ex-roommate (before I got married) is a top notch chassis builder and he can rattle off what I need to do for whatever my questions are. For example, old school, they used to take chrome traction bars an extend them to where the front hit on the torque box (added a welded plate to the bottom of this) instead of the spring or the spring eye. You also put clamps on the rear of the springs to keep the leaves from seperating. The best place for the battery in the trunk is right over the center of the rear end, not the right rear frame rail. Also, most batteries have lead plates in them, if you are running the battery on the frame rail, and you make any power, make sure the battery runs across the rail instead of inline with the rail, this lengthens battery life as the plates aren't banging into each other when you take off. We ran 11.9s with these mods on a 3225# '68 Mustang coupe with a home built C4 w/ 3500 stall and 4.33 gears with a 255/70/15 Dunlop Qualifier GT radial and a True radial class. The motor was about a 400 horse N/A 289 and we could launch right up against the converter and never once spun the tires off the line.
http://forums.stangnet.com/member.php?u=4706
http://forums.stangnet.com/member.php?u=4872
I met MM at WFC2 in Joliet. He was a little arrogant, it's a little more wild west over there at M&M. Most of what I've seen regarding Stangnet over there is bashing .
73trials said:I'm sure those Stangnet boys will set him straight.
RaSMG said:
That said, I have no problem with people asking questions or even being members of multiple forums. Not everyone is a member at all forums and many do not have time to answer questions in multiple forum, but I don't see where bashing someone does any good. MM is a very knowledgeable person, especially when it comes to more stock styled suspensions, but you kind of have to get to know him to be able to put up with him in my opinion.
I kind of have it easy when it comes to chassis questions as my ex-roommate (before I got married) is a top notch chassis builder and he can rattle off what I need to do for whatever my questions are. For example, old school, they used to take chrome traction bars an extend them to where the front hit on the torque box (added a welded plate to the bottom of this) instead of the spring or the spring eye. You also put clamps on the rear of the springs to keep the leaves from seperating. The best place for the battery in the trunk is right over the center of the rear end, not the right rear frame rail. Also, most batteries have lead plates in them, if you are running the battery on the frame rail, and you make any power, make sure the battery runs across the rail instead of inline with the rail, this lengthens battery life as the plates aren't banging into each other when you take off. We ran 11.9s with these mods on a 3225# '68 Mustang coupe with a home built C4 w/ 3500 stall and 4.33 gears with a 255/70/15 Dunlop Qualifier GT radial and a True radial class. The motor was about a 400 horse N/A 289 and we could launch right up against the converter and never once spun the tires off the line.
