I want a 200mph+ race car from my 95

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Years ago Steeda took a 1995 GT to 199.6 mph with the bone stock exterior. The car was making well over 600 rwhp and had a decently modified suspension.

Interesting....I'd like to read up on that... seems very strange, drag coefficient on our cars is pretty limiting...I'll do the formula's and math and such tomorrow

Same guy said:
On a down note, one of the body moldings did blow off.:nice:

That makes it so much more incredible to think about :banana:
 
Well I found the article but I thought we had a flatbed scanner at work and we don't. So for what's it worth, I'm going to type up the important information on here, not the whole article:

(interior shot)THe cockpit is all business. after all, traveling 200 mph for almost 30 minutes demands the utmost in monitoring and safety equipment. freguent engine and driveline checks are conducted through an array of auto meter and VDO guages, while navigator matt chambers also employs multiple stopwatches, and intercom and a gps. both occupants are secured in their sparco seats by schrotth six-point harnesses and surrounded by a gorgeous rally-style rollcage by cascade autosport in north bend, wa. a halon fire system is present in case of diasaster.

(basic write up of combo) Front and center is the Vortech T-Trim boosted 4.6 cobra mill, which has posted 622 rwhp on the mustanch chasis dyno at auburn, washington's blood enterprises. that number came witha safe-read slightly rich-a/f ratio, deemed a necessity when running so long and hard. internals consist of a stock forged crank, manley rods, custom ross forged pistons, and modmax plasma-moly rings, wile a set of AFM stage 3 proted heads ride along on top. the t-trim builds upward of 20 psi at redline, and it is augmented by vortechs pwoer cooler and AFM power pipe. the intake tract also consists of a pro-m 87mm air meter, a frpp throttle body, and a proted factory intake.
Fuel is sourced froma pair of fuel safe cells, the smaller of which was added after the team moved up in the power/consumption department, only to realize the primary cell couldn't carry a sufficient load for the entire 90-mile run. an aeromotive pump supplies the 104-octane juice through 1/2 inch braided steel supply lines, an aermotive regulator, sean hyland rails, and 50# holley injectors. frpp epec computer system provides the basis for a spot-on tune, while remaining ingnition responsibilities are shared by MSD, ACCEL, taylor and denso components.
a tremec t-56 six-speed plumbed for auxiliary cooling sits behind the boosted 4.6. it's actuated by a pro 5.0 shifter and spec stave 4 cluch assembly. powr is delivered through a mark williams aluminum driveshaft before reaching a grigges racing-preparted 8.8 rear. the assembly features 3.27 gears, strange 31-spline axles, a black gold diff, a decambered 9" axle ends. as does the trans oil, the rear gear lube is ciculated through its own external cooler, which is force-fed air from the ducts in the rear quarter-windows.
up front griggs c/c plates, a tubular k-member, sever-duty control arms, and a double adjustable koni coilover assembly. delrin bushings eliminate any and all slop, while brembo 4-pot calipers with performance frictino pads slow things down in a hurry. out back there are suprises, just more griggs. we're talking the company's beefiest torque are, panhard bar, control arms, and coilover affair.
tune in over at john's website www.overbudgetracing.com for post-silver state updates.

block - 0.020 over aluminum cobra
connecting rods - manley h-beam
pistons - ross w/modmax plasma-moly rings
heads - stage 3 proted by AFM
camshafts - stock
intake - ported cobra
TB - FRPP single-blade
exhaust - bbk long tubes, dr. gas 3" x-pipe, spintech mufflers
power adder - vortech t-trim w/2.95 pulley, vortech power cooler, AFM power pipe
fuel system - aeromotive pump and regulator, 1/2" supply, SHM rails, holley 50# injectors
MAF - Pro-M 87mm
tranny - Tremec T-56, spec stage IV clutch, fidanza aluminum flywheel, pro5.0 shifter
rearend - griggs 8.8, black gold diff, 3.27 gears, strange 31-spline axles, 9" ends

engine management - EPEC
ingition - MSD
guages - auto meter and VDO
front suspension:
K-member - griggs tubular
struts - koni double adjustable struts
springs - coilover
brakes - brembo w/ performance friction pads
wheels - fikse 18x10
tires - yokohama professional endurance racing slicks
rear:
traction device - griggs torque arm, panhard bar, and conrol arms
shocks - koni shocks
springs - coilover
brakes - stock w/performance friction pads
wheels - fikse 18x11
tires - yokohama professional endurance racing slicks
chassis stiffeners - 8point cage by cascade autosports, griggs subframe connectors

as far as the exterior, it has the stock cobra bumper, saleen heat extractor hood, headlight covers(which i don't know how those hold up to 200mph, mine flew off once a 65), stock side skirts, 1/4 panel scoops, mirros and rear cobra bumper, the rear windows have ducts cut into them for the cooler. the wing looks like an aluminum version of the cobra R, but higher and thinner with adjusting arm thingys
 
Good luck with that, If your mustang is built anything like mine you have to realize they are not designed for top speed :/

Its like trying to make a minivan hit 200mph, whats the point


All the money it would take to get there, your better off buying a car with a little aero engineering in mind
 
I'd say lower the car as low as possible, clean up the bottom of the car, get a front airdam and a good rear spoiler, you'd probably have to adjust your front alignment. I forget what all the alightment terms are, but I think you want the bottoms of the wheels to point inward and the fronts to be straight or even pointed slightly outward for high speed stability. Oh yeah, definitely get a really good roll cage, lol.

That said, please don't do it!

Caster - Forward or Rearward Tilt of the steering knuckle.

Camber - The inward or outward tilt of the tire/wheel assembly when viewed from the front of the vehicle

Toe - Toe relates to the difference in the distance between the front of the tires and the rear of the tires on the same axle, or to the vehicle centerline.

I just finished an entire course on Front end and alignment... Hope this helps.
 
as far as the exterior, it has the stock cobra bumper, saleen heat extractor hood, headlight covers(which i don't know how those hold up to 200mph, mine flew off once a 65), stock side skirts, 1/4 panel scoops, mirros and rear cobra bumper, the rear windows have ducts cut into them for the cooler. the wing looks like an aluminum version of the cobra R, but higher and thinner with adjusting arm thingys

you forgot to mention the rolls of 200mph duct tape :rlaugh:

seriously though, you will see tons of tape out there. headlight seams, foglight holes, grills, basically anything that has a gap on the leading edge will be taped.

Originally Posted by parchisi
I'd say lower the car as low as possible, clean up the bottom of the car, get a front airdam and a good rear spoiler, you'd probably have to adjust your front alignment. I forget what all the alightment terms are, but I think you want the bottoms of the wheels to point inward and the fronts to be straight or even pointed slightly outward for high speed stability. Oh yeah, definitely get a really good roll cage, lol.

That said, please don't do it!

lowering a stang as far as possible is a very poor idea. the front roll center is very low and makes for the poor roll axis to become even worse.

caster is the spec you are talking about. mustangs can not get enough caster. by moving the front wheels forward it stretches out the roll axis which helps in reducing brake dive, camber gain upon turn-in, and high speed stability.

as for the toe you will need a slight bit of toe-in due to the loads at those speeds will push the wheels outward a bit.
 
a halon fire system is present in case of diasaster.

btw--if you use Halon for your fire system(which is required in unlimited class) you will be forever flamed by me.

i have ingested halon in an outside environment a number of times and it plain sucks. i can only imagine being stuck in a car with a bunch of it---might as well let the fire kill you.