I want to make a switched distribution block

[mob]

Cool thanks for the info HISSIN, always very helpful to me. I do still plan on using a small fused dsitrbution box for the constant 12V from the starter solenoid, mainly because I have so many wires on the starter solenoid I cant even put the nut on, so I am going to put some of the small gauge wires to the fused box.

This is the box I got from my work I am going to use. I really like making everything look as STOCK as possible, like it was supposed to be there, so I am hoping I can make all this as clean as possible.

 

[mob]

Oh yea, (Joe I am sure you got something for this) does anyone know where I can by plastic connectors with pigtails coming off each side? I think these should be easily accessible but I cant find them, I feel like I could make millions off this idea, of just having two factory style connectors that plug into each other, and keep water out, and just have pigtail wires coming off each end that you can solder into any harness, that way it looks factory, keeps moisture out, can easily be removed (water ever it is you are installing) and you dont have to use those stupid male/female connectors or bullet terminals. I feel like I could become a millionaire off this idea.

I am thinking about just going to a junkyard and just cutting off tons of pigtails off any kind of wiring harness to accomplish this.

Joe this is something I would imagine skycraft would have, maybe I havent looked hard enough?

 

[capri debris]

Look, this isn't rocket science... it's as simple as this:



A relay has a "big" hot IN and a "big" hot OUT..... and a "little" hot IN that activates the relay and switches the "big" hot OUT on and off. Some relays have 5 prongs... the 5th is if you want something "hot" all the time , but then off when the relay is activated.

 

[HISSIN50]

CD, I think that was understood. It came down to the purpose of having a relay activate triggers for other relays (since his box isn't going to be on a relay at all). There really isn't one. It's easier to run the "radio" wire in your diagram directly to the three relay coils he already has in the car.

 

[Rick 91GT]

In some cases I have used these to keep the factory look "weatherpack connector", expensive but worth it to keep moisture out..although I already had the $80 crimping tool. www.whiteproducts.com they have the pigtailed weatherpack connections available, or you can build your own...

Summit sells a few other brands as well...

Caspers Electronics 103005 - Caspers Electronics Weatherpack Wiring Connector Assortment Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

My one thought for you is, plan ahead so if you need to remove the motor, intake or other components your wiring is easily moved or out of the way...make life easier on yourself. I like to keep components on there own circuit if at all possible so if a problem arises you can quickly troubleshoot. I run the MSD to the starter solnoid, and never splice or crimp anything to it when ever possible. I prefer to soilder all connections or use the weatherpack and pin, if I use a buttsplice or crimp connection shrink tube all ends and use a quality crimper. I also check connections with a my meter as well when I am done, just as a double check....

 

[mob]

Thanks Rick, thats what I was looking for, but I think they should be available at part or hardware stores for like 2 bucks. Looks like to the junkyard it is.

 

[jrichker]

Cool thanks for the info HISSIN, always very helpful to me. I do still plan on using a small fused dsitrbution box for the constant 12V from the starter solenoid, mainly because I have so many wires on the starter solenoid I cant even put the nut on, so I am going to put some of the small gauge wires to the fused box.

This is the box I got from my work I am going to use. I really like making everything look as STOCK as possible, like it was supposed to be there, so I am hoping I can make all this as clean as possible.

Neat gizmo - I like it, does it come in an 8 or 10 fuse model? What are the Advance part numbers?

 

[mob]

Joe I am not sure on the part number I will have to get it. I have only seen it in the 6 fuse model.

EDIT: Here you go Joe,
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...uses-Bussmann_5171571-P_N4017D_A|GRP2020A____

 

[jrichker]

Thanks for the input. That's an excellent price for that fuse block. The same fuse block is going for $23.40 at a major electronics supply house, Digikey.com.

If I were to do such a project, I would make a trip to Skycraft and find a sturdy plastic box with a close fitting lid. The lid would keep the moisture out of the wiring and fuses. Ideally the box would have about 1 1/2" clearance on each side of the fuse block and about 2" on each end. Drill holes in the ends of the box to accommodate the wires. Make the power come in one end of the box and the feed from the fuses to the loads out the other end. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the wires and grommets to seal up tight around the heat shrink where it goes in the box. Skycraft will have both the heat shrink and the wire loom in sizes you will need.

 

[HISSIN50]

I have the same fusebox in my toolbox. I think it came from AZ (for those of us without a local Advance).