Look, this isn't rocket science... it's as simple as this:
A relay has a "big" hot IN and a "big" hot OUT..... and a "little" hot IN that activates the relay and switches the "big" hot OUT on and off. Some relays have 5 prongs... the 5th is if you want something "hot" all the time , but then off when the relay is activated.
A relay has a "big" hot IN and a "big" hot OUT..... and a "little" hot IN that activates the relay and switches the "big" hot OUT on and off. Some relays have 5 prongs... the 5th is if you want something "hot" all the time , but then off when the relay is activated.
CD, I think that was understood. It came down to the purpose of having a relay activate triggers for other relays (since his box isn't going to be on a relay at all). There really isn't one. It's easier to run the "radio" wire in your diagram directly to the three relay coils he already has in the car.
In some cases I have used these to keep the factory look "weatherpack connector", expensive but worth it to keep moisture out..although I already had the $80 crimping tool. www.whiteproducts.com they have the pigtailed weatherpack connections available, or you can build your own...
Summit sells a few other brands as well...
Caspers Electronics 103005 - Caspers Electronics Weatherpack Wiring Connector Assortment Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
My one thought for you is, plan ahead so if you need to remove the motor, intake or other components your wiring is easily moved or out of the way...make life easier on yourself. I like to keep components on there own circuit if at all possible so if a problem arises you can quickly troubleshoot. I run the MSD to the starter solnoid, and never splice or crimp anything to it when ever possible. I prefer to soilder all connections or use the weatherpack and pin, if I use a buttsplice or crimp connection shrink tube all ends and use a quality crimper. I also check connections with a my meter as well when I am done, just as a double check....
Summit sells a few other brands as well...
Caspers Electronics 103005 - Caspers Electronics Weatherpack Wiring Connector Assortment Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
My one thought for you is, plan ahead so if you need to remove the motor, intake or other components your wiring is easily moved or out of the way...make life easier on yourself. I like to keep components on there own circuit if at all possible so if a problem arises you can quickly troubleshoot. I run the MSD to the starter solnoid, and never splice or crimp anything to it when ever possible. I prefer to soilder all connections or use the weatherpack and pin, if I use a buttsplice or crimp connection shrink tube all ends and use a quality crimper. I also check connections with a my meter as well when I am done, just as a double check....
Thanks for the input. That's an excellent price for that fuse block. The same fuse block is going for $23.40 at a major electronics supply house, Digikey.com.
If I were to do such a project, I would make a trip to Skycraft and find a sturdy plastic box with a close fitting lid. The lid would keep the moisture out of the wiring and fuses. Ideally the box would have about 1 1/2" clearance on each side of the fuse block and about 2" on each end. Drill holes in the ends of the box to accommodate the wires. Make the power come in one end of the box and the feed from the fuses to the loads out the other end. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the wires and grommets to seal up tight around the heat shrink where it goes in the box. Skycraft will have both the heat shrink and the wire loom in sizes you will need.
If I were to do such a project, I would make a trip to Skycraft and find a sturdy plastic box with a close fitting lid. The lid would keep the moisture out of the wiring and fuses. Ideally the box would have about 1 1/2" clearance on each side of the fuse block and about 2" on each end. Drill holes in the ends of the box to accommodate the wires. Make the power come in one end of the box and the feed from the fuses to the loads out the other end. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the wires and grommets to seal up tight around the heat shrink where it goes in the box. Skycraft will have both the heat shrink and the wire loom in sizes you will need.