Idle DAMMIT!

Dbeck002

Dbeck002

New Member
Apr 30, 2005
710
0
0
South florida
#1
I cant get her to idle right.


New mods are the AFR165s and TFS1 cam.
has 24 lb injectors and a 255 pump with the Kirban AFPR.


timing at 14 degrees 93 octane...
Other bolt ons too.

I checked everything 40 times, vacuum leaks. couldnt find any, timing hasnt changed, fuel pressure is 32 at idle which is supposed to be normal.
It also bucks at low RPM. Not horrible bucking but its hesitation nonetheless.

My shop says it could be the C&L MAF causing all these problems. I dont want to have to buy a new maf and it wont solve the problem, has anyone encountered this issue? BTW i did buy the 24 lbs calibration tube and it ran fine on my car before the heads and cam.

My shop said because of the cam the C&L is taking a sh1t.

What do you guys think? Im going nuts here.
 
#2
Have you tried turning the MAF? This can often help with a crazy idle. Unfortunately, I have heard people having a tough time getting their car to run smoothly after doing mods when using a C&L. I went with a Pro-M and it made my car run sooo much smoother.
 
#3
I had a C&L on there for a few weeks. I thought it was the problem causing an unstable idle and running rich etc. So I sent my Pro-M in to get recalibrated (and yes Pro-M is open for anybody who wants to know) and it barely helped anything. My main issue was a vacuum leak in the harness that runs to the smog and egr. All of those lines had melted through underneath the loom from falling on the header one day. I fixed that and BAM! it ran 1000x better. So you might wanna check again. Just out of curiosity, you're not trying to have it idle at stock 650rpms are you? The stage 1 cam will NOT idle there. It needs at least 850 or so from what I've found. Try raising your idle with the stop screw (I think fox TB's are setup the same way). Good luck
 
#5
Thanks for replies.

Here is my info.


its possible that it could just be a vacuum leak. That was the suggestion from the beginning but i just didnt find it.

My shop says they have the equipment to calibrate the MAF voltage and stuff, i dont know what theyre talking about but they are the sh1t so i trust em.

Next: I know about the idle of the TFS1 ~ 900. Right now she idles at 950-1000 because of the vacuum leak. I did use the stop screw on the TB to keep her idling high. Bit she will surge hard after a few minutes of idle. It still sounds like vacuum to me.

Its actually so obvious its a vacuum leak,

surging idle, bucking at low RPMs, runs ok at high RPMs, i hear a whistle coming from near the firewall where the hoses are. I just cant find this f--king rat. Someone shoot me plz...

P.S i tried the carb cleanear technique. Sprayed it all over the hoses and everything. Idle still surged, i didnt hear it spike. Thats the only thing i dont understand, carb cleaner should tell me where its coming from. I am so :owned:
 
#6
I found my problems with idle to be the following..vac leak located JUST inside the passenger side fender at the vacuum port behind the shock tower by the firewall..broken small line. Second problem was hego (orange) ground wire was missed during the install. After those two corrected and a couple of idle setting attempts I had an idle of 900..the ONLY place the car will idle without surge stall, and stalling while coming to stops. Keep lookin...vac leaks are very very sneeky.
 
#7
1 .I know which wire youre talking about. Its an orange ground wire that has plastic conduit around it and it leads back into the main harness right? Does that ground to the chassis or block?

2. And one more thing, go here and look at the bottom pic

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html


Notice the tree of vacuum lines near the guys arm? I removed all of them and plugged up the holes. Just wondering if thats ok, its been like that for a while with no problems before the heads/cam. This tree leads into some salt shaker looking connector, dunno what its for. Anyone know?

EDIT: Forgot to mention i removed every trace of EGR related equipment. Smog pump too and my heads or non emissions legal.

Egr has been gone for months with no problems.
 
#8
The orange ground is for heating the O2 sensors. As for the lines...follow them to make sure the lines don't end up unpluged or cracked..Pull codes too, I have a feeling EGR codes may be present..could be a contributing factor.
 
#10
Dbeck002 said:
1 .I know which wire youre talking about. Its an orange ground wire that has plastic conduit around it and it leads back into the main harness right? Does that ground to the chassis or block?

2. And one more thing, go here and look at the bottom pic

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html



Notice the tree of vacuum lines near the guys arm? I removed all of them and plugged up the holes. Just wondering if thats ok, its been like that for a while with no problems before the heads/cam. This tree leads into some salt shaker looking connector, dunno what its for. Anyone know?

EDIT: Forgot to mention i removed every trace of EGR related equipment. Smog pump too and my heads or non emissions legal.

Egr has been gone for months with no problems.
Click to expand...

Those are the very hoses that were the cause of my vacuum leaks. I even sprayed carb cleaner on them, I guess it just didn't penetrate the loom wrapped around them, because the idle didn't raise for me either. Might wanna check and make sure they are still plugged good. Is your car running real rich? Mine was, I mean RICH!! Fixed the vacuum leak and it felt like it gained 50hp, and fuel economy was back for the most part. No other tuning done, and I got 16mpg.
 
#11
My car is running rich as sin. I can smell raw fuel in the exhaust. Its a vac leak for sure, im going to find this little b1tch ass sh1t f--k crap b1tch ass die evil vacuum leak...
























B1tch...



















Thanks for the help all. :bang:
 
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