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idle RPM question..

  • Thread starter Thread starter etid
  • Start date Start date Jul 15, 2007
E

etid

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Jan 8, 2007
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Jul 15, 2007
#1
  • Jul 15, 2007
  • #1
i just bought a h/c/i 5.0

306 (9.5:1 CR)
AFR 165s 61cc
Comp Cam XE270HR
AFR 1.6s

what should it be idling at? it idles at about 1100rpm.

normal for the specs? any info would be great.
 
E

etid

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#2
  • Jul 15, 2007
  • #2


also, that hose is missing and plugged up. what is it exactly/where does it go and could that be causing a check engine light?
 

jrichker

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#3
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #3
See "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
 

91 HATCH

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May 17, 2007
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Jul 16, 2007
#4
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #4
[/QUOTE]
also, that hose is missing and plugged up. what is it exactly/where does it go and could that be causing a check engine light?[/QUOTE]

THE HOSE GOES TO THE EVAP CAN IT IS NOT RELATED TO THE LIGHT
 
E

etid

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#5
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #5
would a broken vacuum line on the egr set the light off?
 

ninety15.0

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#6
  • Jul 16, 2007
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yes, if you have a broken line going to the EGR valve you would most likely get a code. It may not trip the check engine light, but if you check the KAM im sure you will find code 33 in there someplace! I would check replace all broken/cracked vac lines. Good combo...that thing should rip!
 

90_Red_LX

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Sep 29, 2003
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Jul 16, 2007
#7
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #7
I idled mine at about 8-900 rpm, a shade below the 1k mark. Runs good. Any lower, if it takes to surging a little it'll stall. My cam may be a little nastier than that one though, not sure.
 

jrichker

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#8
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See the checklist I posted: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148 . It has the instructions on how to dump the codes. If you post the codes, I will post the fixes for them.
 
E

etid

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#9
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #9
found out today, the smog pump is disconnected. doh.

what lines come out of it and where do they go?
 

jrichker

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Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.
 
R

robertdale

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Jul 16, 2007
#11
  • Jul 16, 2007
  • #11
by the photo it looks like the car has iron heads? sounds like a vac leak
 
E

etid

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Jul 18, 2007
#12
  • Jul 18, 2007
  • #12
yeah, ive got a mess of vac leaks.

the car is going in the shop thursday to fix the vac lines, egr valve and get the smog pump re done.
 
E

etid

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Jul 18, 2007
#13
  • Jul 18, 2007
  • #13
robertdale said:
by the photo it looks like the car has iron heads? sounds like a vac leak
Click to expand...

that was a photo taken off google

here is the actual car, you can see the same line, but plugged up:

 
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