If only the horse could catch the cat

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

Since the Kitty was professionally done.......I have questions on one I am doing myself.
1965 Pony Coupe
289 A block - stock except for the Edlebrock 600
T-10
Was missing very badly but no smoke. Found out the coil was leaking so replaced it. Then discovered intermitent fire on No. 2. I guess the coil messed up the distributor since everything was burnt. Replaced the distributor. Fires on all 8 now but seems to be constipated. Vacuum shows 10-12 with rapid movement at idle. Book does not explain this one to me.

Blocked exhaust??? - sounds like it is muffled?? Dual exhaust, turbo mufflers.
Intake manifold leak??

What is my next step??

Thanks

rbohm · Mar 9, 2004

start by checking for vacuum leaks, likely the intake manifold gasket or the carb gasket are leaking. often times you can retorque the intake and carb and cure the leaks. ignition timing is next, i like to set it between 10 and 14 degrees initial. then check the exhaust.

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

Timing is at 8. Book says 6. Compression is 130 across all 8. Not pinging. Rpm at idle is 700.

How do I check the exhaust??

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

I said stock but.... I replaced the coil with a MSD Blaster. Just the coil. Stock distributor at 27 degrees dwell and AF45 plugs gapped at .035.

10secgoal · Mar 9, 2004

I would do the fine tuning at idle. I put on a proform main body and had the same problem.I have a healthy 302, but when I fires it up it sounded horrible. Like a stock motor with a muffler with a hole in it. The 10-12 and jumping can pioint to a vacuum leak. But it can also be a lack of timing, bad idle mixture,incorrect valve timing.....

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

10secgoal said:
I would do the fine tuning at idle. I put on a proform main body and had the same problem.I have a healthy 302, but when I fires it up it sounded horrible. Like a stock motor with a muffler with a hole in it. The 10-12 and jumping can pioint to a vacuum leak. But it can also be a lack of timing, bad idle mixture,incorrect valve timing.....

EXPLAIN, PLEASE!!!!

mustangdave · Mar 9, 2004

10-12 is low at idle for a basically stock engine. I can't remember for sure but I thought a fast jump in vaccuum was a burnt valve? anyone?

crushnut · Mar 9, 2004

mustangdave said:
10-12 is low at idle for a basically stock engine. I can't remember for sure but I thought a fast jump in vaccuum was a burnt valve? anyone?

A fast jumping needle on a vacuum guage could be many different things, sticking valve guides, burned valve seats or a leak in the head gasket.

crushnut · Mar 9, 2004

Hook up the guage and run the engine at 2000 rpm, if the reading is lower than it was at idle then that points to a restriction in the exhaust system. And if the guage still fluctuates at the higer rpm then weak valve springs are suspect. Hope this helps Good Luck

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

At 2000 RPM I get on the vacuum gauge just over 20 and steady???

crushnut · Mar 9, 2004

KillerKittyCat said:
At 2000 RPM I get on the vacuum gauge just over 20 and steady???

Well that rules out both of them then, thats good news

KillerKittyCat · Mar 9, 2004

So then what????

Maybe it's a Chevy engine just trying to give Ford a bad name?????

crushnut · Mar 9, 2004

KillerKittyCat said:
So then what????

I would check and do the things 10secgoal said next.

KillerKittyCat · Mar 11, 2004

I am going to re-gasket it this weekend.

Ideas on changing the point setting, spark plug gap, timing etc would be appreciated.

The exhaust.....any quick way to tell if it is blocked???

pabear89 · Mar 11, 2004

Try running the timing around 10-12 degrees.
and check for low rpm vac leak.

PB

crushnut · Mar 12, 2004

KillerKittyCat said:
The exhaust.....any quick way to tell if it is blocked???

I already told you a way to check it with the vacuum guage, and from the info you gave (if it is correct and accurate) then you don't have a blockage.

KillerKittyCat · Mar 12, 2004

Okay, I am going to do a compression test again before I tear anything down. A burnt valve would show low compression. A wore out cam would show what?????

Remember this engine has 310000 miles on it. The valve covers and top of the heads are clean. All the springs and keepers are in place and move.

I have two cams on hand that will fit that engine. This is the 4bbl factory block with the 4 speed behind it.

1.) 214 duration with 488 lift

2.) 230 duration with 512 lift

Which way do I go if the cam is flat???

I am just trying to get as much info as possible before I tear into this engine.

Crushnut, I am listening. I am just trying to learn.

crushnut · Mar 13, 2004

KillerKittyCat said:
Crushnut, I am listening. I am just trying to learn.

I didn't mean to be a ass hole if that is how i came across

D.Hearne · Mar 13, 2004

KillerKittyCat said:
I am going to re-gasket it this weekend.

Ideas on changing the point setting, spark plug gap, timing etc would be appreciated.

The exhaust.....any quick way to tell if it is blocked???

First things first------ DITCH THE POINTS !!!!! Put in a Pertronix unit. Put on a good set of plug wires, gap the plugs at around .042 . Set your timing at 10-12 degrees BTDC. If you go with the bigger of the two cams, you'll need to change the springs too. The smaller one will be fine with stock springs.

KillerKittyCat · Mar 14, 2004

Number two has zero compression. Not the bottom end but the head. Both valves are operating. Both #1 and #3 are solid.

I say the bottom is okay because I squirted oil in the cylinder with no change. When I cranked the engine (no plugs) after the oil test I had puffs of "smoke" coming out of #2 only. The plug was black.

These are recently rebuilt heads. I am assuming a burnt valve or worse. What else could I expect when I pull the head??

Pertronix on the way!!

If only the horse could catch the cat

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