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Ignition Module Failure on 94 5.0 with Distributor

  • Thread starter Thread starter JMBPE
  • Start date Start date Sep 15, 2022
J

JMBPE

Founding Member
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Bellvue, Colorado
Sep 15, 2022
#1
  • Sep 15, 2022
  • #1
I have gone through two ignition modules in two months. I have found no codes thrown and difficulty in isolating with power to the coil nothing coming back to the low voltage side of the distributor. distributor. With the last replacement I put in a #14 stranded wire from the module frame to chassis ground. Are these failures caused by a surge at start up? Is there a more substantial aftermarket module? (Both failures were NAPA). Am I on the right track?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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#2
  • Sep 15, 2022
  • #2
When does the failure occur?
 
J

JMBPE

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Sep 16, 2022
#3
  • Sep 16, 2022
  • #3
General karthief said:
When does the failure occur?
Click to expand...
Great question! Both times it showed no problem while engine was running just prior to the glitch. Failure could be pointed to startup, which then might point to the starter or solenoid as the source. The starter was replaced about 1,200 miles prior to the ignition module fiascos. I have beefed up the ground at the module with hopes that would take any surge or other transients safely to ground during start-up. I might be thinking about starter replacement again, but do not especially enjoy that procedure. Could be that carrying a spare ignition module in the trunk would be less painful than changing the starter again.

Thanks again
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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#4
  • Sep 16, 2022
  • #4
Starter........ignition module? One has nothing to do with the other.
What am I missing here?
 
J

JMBPE

Founding Member
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Sep 17, 2022
#5
  • Sep 17, 2022
  • #5
General karthief said:
Starter........ignition module? One has nothing to do with the other.
What am I missing here?
Click to expand...
An inductive device (such as a motor, especially with a partially faulted winding) is capable of producing a spurious voltage surge or spike. This often shows up at motor starting or when a high torque load is imposed on a motor. The voltage spike on a shared system can lead to failure of more sensitive equipment such as electronic modules, computers, video or audio equipment, etc. A voltage spike can be controlled by several approaches. The easiest and least costly remedy is by installing a low impedance path to ground that hopefully "bleeds" the surge to ground before it can damage anything. A similar approach is used in lightning protection systems. (See Ben Franklin for more on this). Sorry it that I fell into lecture mode. The 12 volt dc system in a vehicle is subject to the same problems as many other electrical systems.

Thank you for leading me to looking at the time of failure ... "start-up" and that put a whole different approach to the solution. The bottom line is that starter replacement is probably the next place to take this if more control modules bite the dust. Thank you also for your patience.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
Sep 17, 2022
#6
  • Sep 17, 2022
  • #6
General karthief said:
Starter........ignition module? One has nothing to do with the other.
What am I missing here?
Click to expand...

He's actually spot on with this. MSD ignition systems are notorious for blowing on start up from sharp voltage changes.

What brand of ignition control module did you get? Parts have been all over the place in quality since Rona. GM is replacing 1000s of engines that are blowing because they went to substandard suppliers during shortages. I wouldn't over think it if it's one module.

Kurt
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Sep 17, 2022
#7
  • Sep 17, 2022
  • #7
JMBPE said:
An inductive device (such as a motor, especially with a partially faulted winding) is capable of producing a spurious voltage surge or spike. This often shows up at motor starting or when a high torque load is imposed on a motor. The voltage spike on a shared system can lead to failure of more sensitive equipment such as electronic modules, computers, video or audio equipment, etc. A voltage spike can be controlled by several approaches. The easiest and least costly remedy is by installing a low impedance path to ground that hopefully "bleeds" the surge to ground before it can damage anything. A similar approach is used in lightning protection systems. (See Ben Franklin for more on this). Sorry it that I fell into lecture mode. The 12 volt dc system in a vehicle is subject to the same problems as many other electrical systems.

Thank you for leading me to looking at the time of failure ... "start-up" and that put a whole different approach to the solution. The bottom line is that starter replacement is probably the next place to take this if more control modules bite the dust. Thank you also for your patience.
Click to expand...
Thanks for explaining this to an electrical moron, I'm aware of voltage 'spikes' I just don't know the peculiarities, I know 'the dump truck' (my self loading tow truck) has some type of diode between the positive wire and ground on the clutch pump, didn't make any sense to me at first till I read about the pump getting 'energized ' at start up and they are not designed to operate above 1500 rpms so you can imagine what happens when the pump is operating above that.
 
C

chrlsful

Active Member
Mar 6, 2021
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Lawrence Swamp, S.Amherst, MA
Sep 18, 2022
#8
  • Sep 18, 2022
  • #8
JMBPE said:
Am I on the right track?
Click to expand...
dont know.
Please name/describe the components in ur starting system (asa start to dagnosis). '94 oem?
 
J

JMBPE

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Bellvue, Colorado
Sep 18, 2022
#9
  • Sep 18, 2022
  • #9
revhead347 said:
He's actually spot on with this. MSD ignition systems are notorious for blowing on start up from sharp voltage changes.

What brand of ignition control module did you get? Parts have been all over the place in quality since Rona. GM is replacing 1000s of engines that are blowing because they went to substandard suppliers during shortages. I wouldn't over think it if it's one module.

Kurt
Click to expand...
I have had the problems with the NAPA version of the control modules that failed so catastrophically. At the last failure, I had an after-market module in my tool chest that came with an equipment package somewhere in the distant past (i.e. I don't remember exactly where.) If there are my modules that are more beefy, I would at least have it as a spare part to keep on board/
 
J

JMBPE

Founding Member
Jan 14, 2002
120
0
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Bellvue, Colorado
Sep 18, 2022
#10
  • Sep 18, 2022
  • #10
General karthief said:
Thanks for explaining this to an electrical moron, I'm aware of voltage 'spikes' I just don't know the peculiarities, I know 'the dump truck' (my self loading tow truck) has some type of diode between the positive wire and ground on the clutch pump, didn't make any sense to me at first till I read about the pump getting 'energized ' at start up and they are not designed to operate above 1500 rpms so you can imagine what happens when the pump is operating above that.
Click to expand...
There is no such thing as an electrical moron. I have spent my entire career chasing electrons and no one is capable of having a working knowledge of every aspect and detail of systems like these. That is why I so appreciated your question about when the failures took place. I opened a new perspective that I hadn't considered until you mentioned it. Thanks, again. I let you know of further problems as they come up.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,872
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polk county florida
Sep 18, 2022
#11
  • Sep 18, 2022
  • #11
JMBPE said:
There is no such thing as an electrical moron. I have spent my entire career chasing electrons and no one is capable of having a working knowledge of every aspect and detail of systems like these. That is why I so appreciated your question about when the failures took place. I opened a new perspective that I hadn't considered until you mentioned it. Thanks, again. I let you know of further problems as they come up.
Click to expand...
Dude, I'm telling you I am an 'electrical moron'! I close my eyes plugging in the blow dryer.
Last time I changed a light bulb I had the fire dept on 'stand by' for two days.
I still have not turned it on.
 
J

JMBPE

Founding Member
Jan 14, 2002
120
0
18
Bellvue, Colorado
Sep 19, 2022
#12
  • Sep 19, 2022
  • #12
General karthief said:
Dude, I'm telling you I am an 'electrical moron'! I close my eyes plugging in the blow dryer.
Last time I changed a light bulb I had the fire dept on 'stand by' for two days.
I still have not turned it on.
Click to expand...
I like that. We are digressing from Stang stuff, but take the words of a seasoned high voltage lineman: Working around live electrical systems need not be scary, but can be very unforgiving. Have a great day.
 
C

chrlsful

Active Member
Mar 6, 2021
278
37
38
Lawrence Swamp, S.Amherst, MA
Sep 19, 2022
#13
  • Sep 19, 2022
  • #13
"Steven" is my hero, the guy came up w/ go fast for less.
Glad they put up w/some prettyy ugly stuff & are still there for
the rest of us (me anyway). Not only do I have no automotive theory
I have the wrong, incorrect on it's electronics~
Thnx for ur humility JMBPE
 
Last edited: Sep 19, 2022
D

dcm0123

5 Year Member
Mar 11, 2017
94
30
28
Sep 23, 2022
#14
  • Sep 23, 2022
  • #14
I would go OEM Ford for the ignition module and all electronics.
$60 at Tasca Ford plus shipping.
Put a thermal paste between the metal plate on the back and the mounting surface to help conduct the heat out of it. I would use the same thermal paste they put between computer processors (CPU) and the fan such as Arctic MX-4 or Arctic Silver (Amazon).

1991-1999 Ford Ignition Control Module 5U2Z-12A297-D | TascaParts.com

1991-1999 Ford part # 5U2Z-12A297-D - Ignition Control Module
www.tascaparts.com
 
Last edited: Sep 23, 2022
Reactions: revhead347

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
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Cleveland OH Area
Oct 2, 2022
#15
  • Oct 2, 2022
  • #15
Late to the party, but are you sure it's the modules failing and not the distributor? Anything is possible with today's Chinese quality parts (even OEM) but the pickup (PIP) in the distributor often goes bad about the same time a module does with the same symptoms (no start, and may stall out when hot). I've had poorly wired amps, oversized fog-lights, electrically noisy fans, lots of jump-starts, faulty starters that needed a hammering, and all manners of electrical mayhem over that time and never had it bake the TFI module.
 
D

dcm0123

5 Year Member
Mar 11, 2017
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Oct 2, 2022
#16
  • Oct 2, 2022
  • #16
I have not had problems with the fender mounted TFI's myself buy did many times with distributor mounted on the earlier Fords. I believe part of the issue is heat related which is why I suggested when replacing using a heat transfer paste between the TFI metal plate and the mounting surface.

If the wires look ragged I would also consider replacing the connector which is available aftermarket.
 
Last edited: Oct 2, 2022
C

chrlsful

Active Member
Mar 6, 2021
278
37
38
Lawrence Swamp, S.Amherst, MA
Oct 4, 2022
#17
  • Oct 4, 2022
  • #17
2X ^ on both points (1st one - those R known to be overly heat sensative).
Vehicles this old have ground issues but slim chance in starting systems.
 
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