ignition timing...

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Axel Kain

New Member

Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Jan 19, 2007

#1

• Jan 19, 2007

• #1

i have a 2.3 NA (86 LX single barrel carb) and it likes to diesel after cutoff, i have checked the timing via the cam "port hole" to see that the mark (with my gun set to 10* advance) is in line with the farthest (facing engine) right marker, i ended up setting it to the middle of the 3 marks. is this correct? or should it be lined up with the first mark?

BTW, i love :SNSign:

 

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RustBucket

New Member

Jun 8, 2003

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Buford, GA

Jan 19, 2007

#2

• Jan 19, 2007

• #2

You don't shoot the timing light at the cam pulley. You point it down at the crank pulley. There's another set of marks on the cover down there and a notch on the crank pulley itself. Also make sure you disconnect the SPOUT connector before you check timing or make any timing adjustments.

 

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Axel Kain

New Member

Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Jan 19, 2007

#3

• Jan 19, 2007

• #3

1)where is this SPOUT connector? 2)is the notch on the front face of the damper, or is it on the belt edge?

 

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RustBucket

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Jun 8, 2003

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Buford, GA

Jan 20, 2007

#4

• Jan 20, 2007

• #4

The SPOUT thing may not be an issue. I just reread your original post and noticed you had a carbed 2.3. It may not have the TFI ignition like the EFI cars did. Does your distributor have (or is supposed to have) a vacuum line running to it?

To answer your second question, the notch is on the inner edge of the pulley

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Jan 20, 2007

#5

• Jan 20, 2007

• #5

didnt see a vacuum line, it does have a (about 2 inch across) wire connector pluged to it. am i viewing where the notch is supposed to be on the driver's side?

 

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RustBucket

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Jun 8, 2003

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Buford, GA

Jan 20, 2007

#6

• Jan 20, 2007

• #6

Okay so maybe it is TFI.

Yes the driver's side.

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Jan 24, 2007

#7

• Jan 24, 2007

• #7

so if it (as you think...) is TFI, do i have to worry about the spout connector? at the moment is seems to lack power. (worse than before)

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Jan 24, 2007

#8

• Jan 24, 2007

• #8

well, ive got more power now, someone cut off the timing marks from the belt cover. anyone got a pic of their cover, for refrence. i ended up adjusting the timing by vacuum, turned until i got the most vacuum, with no knocking.

 

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ethangsmith

Member

Jan 28, 2007

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Manheim, PA

Jan 31, 2007

#9

• Jan 31, 2007

• #9

Are you still having dieseling issues? I had some problems with that and excessive spark knock before going with a 2 barrel carb.

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

Feb 4, 2007

#10

• Feb 4, 2007

• #10

well i adjusted the timing via vacuum, its MUCH better now, hasnt diseled in a good 2 weeks now, and it some times give a little kick back like its gonna start diseling, but stops immediately! i do have slight knocking when accelerating/under alot of load, but im going to adjust it a bit more later. i just dont have a tab by the crank to tell me where TDC, and all other timing is. looks like it was cut off, so if somebody could post a pic, for orientation, it would be extermely helpful!

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

May 26, 2007

#11

• May 26, 2007

• #11

**** figured out the problem when I put on new timing belt, and cover. the plug wires where all one place too far forward, like 1 was on 3, 3 was on 4, and so on. so redid the plug wires on the dist. cap, and then it fired up good, adjusted the timing after removing the spout connector (I FINALLY FOUND IT! it's on the same wireharness as the ignition controller, below the EGR) but Im getting a bit of spark knock, and not as good of performance as Id like, what else can I do, as far as timing? (planing on running mid grade fuel anyway)

 

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ethangsmith

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Jan 28, 2007

227

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16

Manheim, PA

May 27, 2007

#12

• May 27, 2007

• #12

Sounds like you made some improvement. As for the spark knock, be sure your EGR system is actually working. The 84-86 2.3L engines have a very weird and unreliable EGR vacuum control system. It uses a backpressure signal from your exhaust manifold and EGR tube. What happens is the little bellows inside the backpressure module (it's near the exhaust manifold, above the smog diverter valve and is black and round) blow out or crack from age and constant motion while driving. This allows exhaust gas to backflow into your vacuum system and totally removes the vacuum signal from the EGR valve. Not a good situation. What I did was simply cap off the black hard plastic tube that runs to the backpressure transducer and drove around. Ping was gone, but it does drive a little funny at times. There are other mods then you can do with the vaccum line going to the EGR valve as well that will help the ping situation. Your timing should be set at 10btdc (without the spout connected). Once the spout is connected, it should go up to 25-30btdc. Also, if the oxygen sensor hasn't been replaced in 30,000 miles, it wouldn't hurt to put another one on.

 

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Axel Kain

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Jan 30, 2006

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Midlothian Va.

May 29, 2007

#13

• May 29, 2007

• #13

yep EGR I took off the actuator, totally gummed up, and cleaned thouroughly. im getting around 3-5 InHg of vacuum at the EGR hose. so i expect its working, also I put 5 InHg vacuum on the port myself at idle, and the car started to run funky...so its working. I did set timing to 10btdc with spout disconnected (finally found it!). I put some mid grade gas in, and seemed to liven it up a bit!
]recently replaed the O2 also.

 

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ethangsmith

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Jan 28, 2007

227

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16

Manheim, PA

May 30, 2007

#14

• May 30, 2007

• #14

Good to hear you got that fixed. Mine always ran a lot better on midgrade and premium fuel too.