I'm doing an EFI conversion, have a few ?'s

[ashford]

im doing an efi conversion on my falcon, and have a few questions to ask.

1. im relocating the battery to the trunk and am not quite sure the best way to route the wires. should they be under the car with a shield, ran inside the car or should i do something else?

2. im goin to mount a feul pump from a late 80 f150 near the tank. for the fuel line im thinking 3/8 brake line(cheap and plentiful) for supply and 5/16 for return. also should i put a filter befor the pump and after?

the engine in the car is an 86 ho all stock with a little work to the heads. intake is from the same engine. computer is a mass- air conversion kit from ford motorsports. its for a auto but i have a manual. not sure what the programming difference is, i should probably ask in the 5.0 section for this though.

 

[Tim65GT]

The search feature on this forum is a great way to get info on popular subjects like yours. Here is a great thread that recently posted a crap load of info with links:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=608736

I particulary like the Cougar one:

http://www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/tccn/encata/tech/v728/toc.html

As far as the battery cable:

I plan to move my battery to the trunk some day and I think it would be better off under the car just outside the pass framerail.
You should move the solonoid with it, that way it's not hot all the time, only when cranking.

You can use a size 4 or 6 gage (fused in the trunk) to carry the battery current to the front of the car (for ignition and accessories). Also a 14 gage wire to carry the solonoid starting wire back. These can be routed in the pass side door sill similar to the way the taillamp harness is run under the driver side sill plate. Just make sure they are protected well and will not chafe through anywhere. You don't want what happened to:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=609754

View attachment 490260

 

[phutch11]

You need to be really careful with the computer and tranny thing. I can't recall which way is safe -- auto computer and manual tranny or manual computer and auto tranny. But I do know that one of those combinations will result in frying the computer due to a 12v signal sent from the tranny to the computer.

Bottom line -- do your homework before you start the car up.

Check out this book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883238/103-1167883-1435051?v=glance&n=283155

It has an entire chapter on the swap and covers a lot of questions.

Good Luck

 

[ashford]

As far as the battery cable:

I plan to move my battery to the trunk some day and I think it would be better off under the car just outside the pass framerail.
You should move the solonoid with it, that way it's not hot all the time, only when cranking.

You can use a size 4 or 6 gage (fused in the trunk) to carry the battery current to the front of the car (for ignition and accessories). Also a 14 gage wire to carry the solonoid starting wire back. These can be routed in the pass side door sill similar to the way the taillamp harness is run under the driver side sill plate. Just make sure they are protected well and will not chafe through anywhere. You don't want what happened to:

i sorta like that idea rather than runnin a constant hot 0 gague wire.
also i have mitchell on demand so ive got alot of reference material.

 

[ashford]

got most of my polishing finished. i really don't like this kind of work but one you start ya hafta finish it.
View attachment 490234

View attachment 490236

 

[0to100to0]

Bottom line -- do your homework before you start the car up.
Check out this book:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1557883238/103-1167883-1435051?v=glance&n=283155
It has an entire chapter on the swap and covers a lot of questions.

i have this book and it is great, but it doesn't have very much GOOD info about efi swaps

matt

 

[jbuening]

I have relocated my solenoid and battery to the trunk of my 70 mach. Only thing that cost me was the wires. I used the stock repro battery tray and removed the angle support piece and mounted it on the passenger side of the trunk centered on the frame rail. This allowed me to use the stock holddowns and such. Keep in mind that in order to do that you need a sealed battery like an Optima, otherwise you need a sealed box with it vented to the outside of the car. I mounted the solenoid on the vertical trunk brace under the trunk hinge. I ran 0 gauge battery wire over the wheelwell, through the passenger sill, and then drilled a hole near the top of my toe boards so the wire went straight to the starter. It is high enough that you can't see is unless you crawl under the dash, yet it is low enough that you can't see it too well when looking under the hood. One other option is to get a mini starter and use the solenoid on the starter to eliminate the stock solenoid. The wire that i used for my alternator was from an stereo amplifier battery wire and i think it was 4 or 6 gauge. Has a built in in-line fuse If you want pics let me know and i'll try to shoot a few.

 

[Steve69]

That looks great. What did you polish the manifolds with? I would by
a battery relocation kit. It will have all the cables to do the job right.
I beleive with the swap you still need your starter solinoid.

Steve

 

[ashford]

That looks great. What did you polish the manifolds with? I would by
a battery relocation kit. It will have all the cables to do the job right.
I beleive with the swap you still need your starter solinoid.

Steve

went to harbor freight and bought 3 cloth buffing wheels and a cheap buffer/grinder. the red and white componds they have that come with wheels suck. ended up buying emry compound and tripili in tubes worked much better.(also alot of 3m surfacing disks).

i also have quite a bit of old welding cable 2/0 and 0 gauge(the place my old man used to work got all new welding cables one day)