I'm really hating my car right now...

well my coils don't appear to have any rust on them but i'm gonna see if i can get some new boots.
i don't have a gauge to test fuel pressure but my car runs better in the higher rpm's, i always though a car with low pressure would fall on its face at higher rpms

if it helps anything, i recently had my alt. rebuilt because the regulator went bad which somehow threw a cps code which caused the car to die on start up but run on the second try
 
Brute03 said:
well my coils don't appear to have any rust on them but i'm gonna see if i can get some new boots.
i don't have a gauge to test fuel pressure but my car runs better in the higher rpm's, i always though a car with low pressure would fall on its face at higher rpms

if it helps anything, i recently had my alt. rebuilt because the regulator went bad which somehow threw a cps code which caused the car to die on start up but run on the second try



yeah it will fall on it's face if the presure is LOW. but if the rail presure sensor is off a bit and the presure is too high at low rpm's then that can cause this problem. what you need to test this is a scan tool with live data and a presure gauge..


I know your not going to want to hear this.. but how do you expect to be able to fix this car without proper equipment. you need a good scan tool with live data. A ford IDS/WDS would sure be handy so you can do a power balance and see what cylinders are droping out if any. You don't have a fuel presure gauge to test with..

This is like trying to shoot at a target with your eyes closed after being spun around for a half hour. :(

At the dealer I cna run a power balance to see what cylinders are dropping out.. I can run a fuel injector test and see the flow numbers for each injector. I can do coil stress tests, I can watch live data and compare it to specs. it's really hard to diag a car with nothign to diag it with
 
i was really trying to avoid carrying it in but i guess i don't have a choice because i can't get my hands on a scan tool with live data but i didn't test coils 1 2 and 3 because i'm lazy and #1 was stuck because the stupid is just spinning in the hole
 
i got the reddish tint on my plugs when i used an additive in my gas. i had a fuel system cleaner service done for free at a training class and all it did was make the car run like crap. the brand new plugs got fouled out adn the car ran really bad. changed the plugs and it ran fine. the insulator part on the plug was literally red on a few of them.
 
SPARK PLUG WIRES!!!

my 96 had an unbelievable hesitation problem for weeks. The car had so many people clueless. I changed so many things, and finally when all else failed I changed the plug wires. $40 something dollars later and about an hour in the autozone parking lot and i was burning rubber again!
 
96 GT JOE said:
SPARK PLUG WIRES!!!

my 96 had an unbelievable hesitation problem for weeks. The car had so many people clueless. I changed so many things, and finally when all else failed I changed the plug wires. $40 something dollars later and about an hour in the autozone parking lot and i was burning rubber again!


he does not have wires his car is a 03 it has coil on plug ignition..
 
svttech... do you know around how much a full set of Motorcraft COP's cost?

I have a similar problem, but not exact. Mine is more of a bog at cold start ups, and a slight bog off the line once warm, and if im crusing in a higher gear and a lower speed, and give it some gas sometimes it feels like there is a slight miss. Ive changed the plugs and fuel filter, both needed it... didnt really help the problem. What tool do I need to test the voltage on the COP's?

Sorry for the hijack.
 
Brute03 said:
i'm running autolite 764's and the car is always acting up, it has no balls whatsoever down low...

Are you running 764(copper Part#), AP764(single Plat. Part#), or the APP764s which are double plat. I put the App764s in yesterday and they are just fine, I can still roast 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.