Imprivng handling / suspension upgrades

[JC6715]

I just got my new baby, '67 w/ the 289. She needs big help in the suspension dept. Here's my plan:
New leafs
1" lowering springs
shelby drop
prothane bushing kit
shackle kit to level her out
monte carlo bar

Am I on the right track? Anything else I should do, or do before what I have suggested?

Thanks for the help guys...

 

[Pbum5]

The 1st thing you should do is come up with a budget.
Then you can make the most cost effective mods.

I just got my new baby, '67 w/ the 289. She needs big help in the suspension dept. Here's my plan:
New leafs
1" lowering springs
shelby drop
prothane bushing kit
shackle kit to level her out
monte carlo bar

Am I on the right track? Anything else I should do, or do before what I have suggested?

Thanks for the help guys...

 

[JC6715]

.

 

[JC6715]

.

 

[JC6715]

I have about 400 bucks or so for the suspension right now... What do I need the most that with make the most difference?

 

[302 coupe]

get new leafs for the rear, don't use a 'shackle kit' in an attempt to restore ride height. It seems like new stock leaf springs are about $110 (been a few years), then you can use a lowering block to drop it an inch. Or you can pay a few bucks more and get mid eye or reverse eye springs to lower it without using blocks. Get new shackles, I like the heavy duty ones mustangs umlimited sells (thick metal and poly bushings). For the front, 550 lb or 620 lb coils, usually 1" lower than stock. Make sure your control arms, ball joints, springs perches etc are in good condition and properly lubricated while you're in there. Also, check your steering components (tie rods, idler arm, excessive play in the steering box). Shocks are up to you, seems everybody has a different opinion on them. KYB GR2's are a good all around shock for highway driving but still do good in the turns.

 

[JC6715]

Right on, thanks man...

 

[mustangdave]

302 coupe has you on the right track. One note: your shocks are probably shot and the cheapos from Autozne or Advance work fine, especially with stiffer springs like the ones mentioned.

 

[Jester67]

If I where going to do the drop take a close look at all the components in the front as stated above (ball joints, UCA, LCA etc). If you are not changing out anything else on the front I would not do the Shelby drop its not as necessary on the 67 and up as on the early cars and that will save you the bucks for the alignment. Take that money and upgrade the brakes power is no good if you cant stop.

 

[JC6715]

I am a big noob when it comes to steering components... Is there an easy answer to what i should be looking for in those components??? What would I have to see to know parts are worn out?

 

[180 Out]

Assuming a tight steering box and good tie rod ends, idler arm, and ball joints (because if you don't have these, everything else is a waste of money) and a $400 budget, you should do the Shelby drop (free), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks ($125), one-inch sway bar (dunno the price, about $80 I'd guess), and the cheapest deal on 1" lowering springs, all four corners, that you can find. A local spring shop will probably beat any Mustang supplier, and will work with you to get the ride height you want. Shocks, sway bar, and springs will use up your $400.

Next on the list has to be 16" or 17" rims and 50 or 45 series tires. Next, other doodads like an HD shackle kit, roller spring perches, and heim jointed strut rods.

You check your tie rods, idler arm, and ball joints first by checking for abnormal tire. If you've got none, then jack up the front end and shake the wheels around. If the wheels move but the tie rods and/or control arms don't, that's a problem.

 

[JC6715]

Right on, thanks for the info everybody. . .

 

[Jester67]

Please help me understand, everyone keeps saying the Shelby drop is free. It is my understanding that the car will need to be realigned after this is completed making it not free just no cost for materials if i'm wrong please help me out. The only reason I bring this up is that it the little expenses that add up and run some one over budget like $65 for alignment, new hardware etc if you are on a tight budget and I believe 400 bucks for suspension work is tight. Then one must account for the “ETC”

 

[2bav8]

Well,
If you're rebuilding your suspension you're going to need an alignment anyways. Plus, the factory specs plain SUCK!

 

[Soaring1]

Not that you can afford it right now, or even need this upgrade with that 289, but if in the future you plan to put some serious HP to the back wheels, here is a very nice looking rear suspension upgrade. Kinda pricey though. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rearcoil.html

 

[302 coupe]

 

[5.0ina66]

Rebuild the suspension (or just replace worn parts if you're on the cheap). The Shelby drop and a performance alignment, new springs/shocks, a big front swaybar, should get you started. One of the first things I'd do though is fork out the $200 for a professional steering box redo. They're worn out without a doubt if they're manual-steering. OTOH, you can get by for a while by refilling it with grease and adjusting the nut, but to me, doing SOMETHING to the steering box is mandatory! Too many people do everything but the box and then either bitch about the steering, or hack up the cash for a TCP setup when a box rebuild probably would've done worlds of good.
JMO
--Kyle

 

[chepsk8]

Whoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before you drop ONE dime on parts, how is the body structure? shock towers solid? floors & frame good? Make sure the body is good, or all that stiff suspension will do is twist, shake, and break your car apart.

First order of biz:

Export brace underhood to get the structure tight & stiff, so any front suspension mods will work, not be flexed away by a soft chassis.

Next order:

MAKE A PLAN.

Then:

Start conservative & work your way up. Simple, proven mods do wonders to these cars. Up front, 1" sway bar with hard bushings, GOOD shocks (KYB), and rebuild the suspension & steering. Nothing crazy is needed.

One of the most important factors will be your wheels & tires. The taller the sidewall, the less suspension work can be transferred.

Out back, the Mid-eye springs are good. Shocks & tires again. Don't go berserk back here, the front of the car does the majority of the handling work.

and, Brakes, brakes, brakes. Gotta stop after you finish carving the corners.

 

[LMan]

...guess I'll be the jerk again and mention that all this and tons more is available with some simple searches....

 

[projectwtf]

put a coilover kit on the front end... might cost a bit, but it will lighten it up, and give you great weight transfer characteristics for maximum traction.

http://www.projectwtf.com/classicexterior_64-70FrontCoiloverKit