in need of a tune or...?

[Rednex4u2nv]

I have an '89 Saleen 5spd, around 107k on the clock. It had a few performance parts on it when i bought it, such as; full Mac exhaust, headers, cold air intake, E303 cam, 95 GT front brakes. weld in subframe braces, K-member braces, and a rear strut tower brace. The car runs well aside from an issue with cold starts ( acts like a carburated car, have to hold the throttle for 5-10 seconds before it'll idle on its own) I did a tuneup on it, new bosch plugs, MSD wires, stock cap and rotor, and added an MSD coil. Also i bought a set of Toyo T1R tires, which i'm pretty happy with handling wise.

So i take it down to the local racetrack and the best i can squeeze out of it is a 15.5.... is it just me or does this seem a bit slow? i'm new to the mustangs so i'm not sure of anything to look for that could be robbing power. it still has all the smog stuff other than the cat's. But i talked to a local guy who has a supercharged fox in the 10's and he suggested i should check the computer. The tag on the car says it should have an A9L but i've yet to pull the computer down to check it. Is there anything else i should check? i haven't checked the timing, because the car seems to run quite well. Any tuning tips?

 

[88 Fox GT]

As far as the startup goes. It could be something as simple as your IAC being clogged up or dirty. Take it off and clean it with some carb cleaner and see if that helps the starting.

Checking the timing is pretty important, I would at least borrow a timing light from someone to check and make sure your timing is on or advance it a little if you want for a tiny bit of extra power.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong… Codes can be present without setting the Check Engine Light.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.