Info needed - synthetic oil choice

[chgovfk]

Hey everyone -
I'm finally ordering my SCT tuner through brenspeed. I have shorties and an H-pipe - cherry bombs (like the 40 flows) and mutha thumpers stage II cams - the car has been sitting for a long time - so I'm thinking of switching it over to synthetic - before the tune arrives- now I'm thinking either Moblie 1 or royal purple full sythetic - w/a Motorcraft filter - what grade do I buy - I live in AZ so I'm thinking I should get the 5-20 - any thoughts would be great.

 

[echoinsilence]

I would say 5-20 is good, I always used mobil 1 then I switched to Royal Purple and I wont go back, I could tell a decent difference. I wouldnt use a motorcraft filter though, I'd go with either mobil 1 or royal purple.

 

[Ken04]

Hey everyone -
I'm finally ordering my SCT tuner through brenspeed. I have shorties and an H-pipe - cherry bombs (like the 40 flows) and mutha thumpers stage II cams - the car has been sitting for a long time - so I'm thinking of switching it over to synthetic - before the tune arrives- now I'm thinking either Moblie 1 or royal purple full sythetic - w/a Motorcraft filter - what grade do I buy - I live in AZ so I'm thinking I should get the 5-20 - any thoughts would be great.

ask 10 people and you'll get 10 different answers. All modern oils are good, filters however are another story because they're constructed with better or cheaper parts. I always stay away from orange, I use the Motorcraft FL820S. Ford Racing has an improved grade FL820S thats about 3 times the cost of a regular one. I always go with 5W-20 oil, I do that because the variable cam timing uses oil to actuate the timing. But you'll get as many opinions about oil weight as you will oil brands. I use Mobil 1 and change it every 3,000 miles. But search for what you are comfortable with based on others usage and opinions. Just beware that this is normally a heated subject, not sure why, but it is. .

 

[chgovfk]

Thanks guys - I didn't mean to stir up a Hornets nest here - I usually always leaned torwards Moblie 1 full syn - but I have blow by lockouts on my VCT - and from what I have heard that if your re-building an engine you should lube it with the royal purple - that's how good it is - I've looked through the related threads and posts - and your right .....it's All over the place- synthetic vs conventional / grade / filter etc etc...thanks for the info on the Ford racing filter - since the car basically sits for most of the week - it may be worth the extra $$

 

['08GTcaRED]

My motto has always been that your oil is only as good as your filter... pick a good filter along with good oil and your car will love you.

 

[Ken04]

Thanks guys - I didn't mean to stir up a Hornets nest here - I usually always leaned torwards Moblie 1 full syn - but I have blow by lockouts on my VCT - and from what I have heard that if your re-building an engine you should lube it with the royal purple - that's how good it is - I've looked through the related threads and posts - and your right .....it's All over the place- synthetic vs conventional / grade / filter etc etc...thanks for the info on the Ford racing filter - since the car basically sits for most of the week - it may be worth the extra $$

well, like I said, Royal Purple will say that, Amzoil will say that, Mobil 1 will say that, and they'll all have charts, graphs and reasons why their product is better, so you really can't go wrong with any of them. If you can afford RP or Amzoil it certainly wouldn't hurt to run either. I like the $22 5 quart gallons I can get of M1. But they're all good.

 

[chgovfk]

Yes I think your correct - I've been looking on not only other mustang sites but on the web pages of Mob 1 and RP - my car has 18K on conventional oil - so everything should be seated correctly - I'm going with the 5W-20 full synthetic - the best page I found was a guy who popped out his cams after 90K - using mobile 1 for it's whole life - lots of scars / markings - then another guy popped out his cams after 30K - using mobile 1 and they looked the same - then a guy running RP popped his out and they were 'clean' as a whistle - don't they use RP in the shelbys / 500 / super snakes - I thought I saw a commerical with Carrol himself pouring RP down the spout.....

 

[SpartaPerformance]

I use Ford Synth blend and I've been leaning towards RP also. My best friend uses it in his Marauder with 65K+ hard miles and when we installed the FRPP chrome cam covers there was not one ounce of sludge. I've heard similar Mobil 1 horror stories too.

 

[chgovfk]

Thanks.....I plan on RP - 5W-20 w/a motor craft filter for the switch - I'll probably up-grade to that ford racing filter after the second change (Thanks for the info on that) .....I was thinking on switching the grade b/c of the AZ heat out here - emailed Royal purple -the response is below - after my return


Thank you Chris for your prompt and informative response – great info – I’m going to stick w/the RP 5W-20 – after reviewing a lot of back and forth on the blogs and doing my own

research I’m very confident in RP’s product – sorry for all of the “hub bub” – but with over $47k invested in this plain old GT – not to mention all of the cracked knuckles – and my

wife digging shallow graves for me in the backyard every time a parts box comes in the mail – I know that the switch to synthetic is big a choice – and now one I’m sure I won’t regret

……(isn’t there an RP commercial w/ Carroll Shelby pouring RP into a ‘super-snake’ ?) – but really what sold me was on a blog – long story short – a kid yanked (3) three sets of cams

out of my years mustang – for switch overs – 1st – 90k using Mobile 1 – scarring / marks – the 2nd – 33K – mobile 1 – same thing (it was a check) – the last one 60K – using RP –

looked brand new – no marks etc etc ……so I’m off to auto zone to pick it up …thanks for the parts ##’s….take care
Frank



From: Chris Barker [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: 2007 Mustang GT

Good Evening

I don’t think moving to 10W-30 would hurt, but your engine is designed to use the 5W-20. Ambient air temperature does play a role in choosing the correct viscosity, but other significant factors are the design of the oil circuit/oil pump and the bearing clearances. In general, modern engines have been built with tighter tolerances to take advantage of the efficiency of lighter viscosity oils.

If you really feel the need to try a heavier viscosity, I would suggest starting with a 5W-30, and seeing what your oil pressure is like. Moving to a heavier viscosity oil will usually result in higher oil pressure, which is not good, in and of itself. Oil pressure is not a good indicator of lubricant protection, just a resistance to flow. Generally oil flow and oil pressure will be inversely proportional to each other (ex. As oil pressure goes up, oil flow goes down). Sufficient oil flow is critical not only for lubrication, but also to help remove heat from high temperature areas in the engine.

- Royal Purple SAE 5W-20 (part #01520, quart bottle)

- Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle)

Hope I didn’t ramble too much. If you need clarification or more info, let me know.


Best Regards,

Christopher Barker
Tech Services
Royal Purple, Inc.
1 Royal Purple Ln.
Porter, TX 77365
281-354-8600

 

[mustangrider92]

hello.
I just read your message. I have a 2005 Mustang GT.
She arrived in France without actually driving on your roads.
I do not know if the 1st owner put the 5W20 (which is not found in France). I think for the revisions, he put the 5W30.
But me, since I have (about 1 year) I put the 5W20.
I do not know if this is due, but I broke a coil of a hydraulic pusher, and now, when the engine is hot, there is a bad smell at the exhaust. The candles have a color a little pale, then they should be caramel colored.
Problem wealth?, Oil?

 

[chgovfk]

Not sure what the coil of a Hydraulic pusher means? -

 

[mustangrider92]

i know what is the coil of a Hydraulic pusher. but i wanted to know if the oil was involved ...

 

[chgovfk]

Not sure - hopefully a person w/more technical resources can help you with this - I have owned alot of mustangs - but this is the first one I'm tearing into myself - learning and downloading everything as I go....

 

[mustangrider92]

when I had this problem rocker hydraulic, nobody in France had had this problem before. Quite strange. I think it's a manufacturing problem and not a maintenance problem, because otherwise the others would have broken too.
Now, since I have my mustang, I put Royal Purple 5W20 of.
But before she rolled over 15,000 miles with, I think a 5W30 oil.
Perhaps the odor problem came from there.
In addition, the poteur made a little noise "click, click" at the injectors ..

 

[AutoXRacer]

I've used it all, Red Line, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc...all synthetics... It really doesn't matter in a street driven vehicle with occasional track days...

After using Red Line for years and $$$$$$$$$$$$$... I decided to use Mobil 1 in my Mustang, its cheap (compared to RL, Amsoil, RP) and easy to find. I found out over the years that spending the extra cash on Red Line and Amsoil didn't really buy me anything.

JMO

 

[bhuff30]

Pretty much any oil on the market will keep your engine strong for a long long time after you get rid of the car. My 97 GT has gotten mobil 1 since we got it with 45k miles. I change the oil every 7000 miles and always run a mobil 1 or motorcraft filter. The car has 173k miles now, and it doesn't use a drop more oil than it did when we bought it. Better yet, the engine has never been opened. As you can see from my track times, I am not nice to the car. I've broken a rear end and a couple shift forks, but the engine is still strong as ever.

Seriously, just keep it full of the correct weight oil, with occasional changes and you'll be fine. The problems arise when you have owners who don't pay attention to the oil level or condition.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I would also like to add that I've been told to choose one oil and stick with it.

I've been told that if you constantly change brands,types/grades, that you will cause additional wear to your engine. That different brands/types/grades of oil change the wear characteristics/patterns in the engine...

Don't know how true that is...but I've always chose one oil brand/type and stuck with it for the life of the engine/vehicle...

 

[racerraj]

The premium Synthetics may be better, but I run M1 in all my cars. My 06 has 80,000 and now I run 5-30 in the summer, 5-20 the rest of the year. My 88 I bought new, it has 357,000 miles of M1. Still clean under the valve cover. And after Hurricane Andrew in 1992 I went over 25,000 miles without touching the car, no oil or filter change... Had around 100,000 miles at that point.

So I stick with M1, it's cheaper and easier to find.

 

[Rocket3005]

5w20 Redline is the only way to go. It has a better base grade on stock than Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. If you are going to spend the money why not buy the best !!

 

[StadEMS3]

Amazing all the differences in opinions. In 94-94 threads some were saying RP was garbage! I run RP for all fluids in my stang and M1 in my other vehicles. Never had any problems with either of them. Just take care of them and change regularly and use a good filter...simple.