Inner Fender/Wheel Well Liner Removal

MLC Stang · Jul 19, 2004

OK, I'm trying again with a different subject line. There's got to be someone out there who has taken this apart on their car, particularly you supercharger guys.

I've got to replace my EVR (EGR Valve Regulator). The bad news is that the EVR is INSIDE the right-front fender well.

Has anybody removed the inner fender well liner before? Does the entire fender liner come off or just part of it? What type of fasteners hold it on? Are the fasteners re-usable? Is it easy to do, or hard to do?

Any advice on the procedure or problems you ran into would be appreciated.

Thanks.

94TURBO5 O · Jul 19, 2004

The wheel liner is held in by push pins and they pull right out and they are re-usable if you don't murder them in the process of getting them out. The liner just peels down after they are out.

donjohn · Jul 19, 2004

i thought i remeber a couple phillips heads on the outer side of the well, could be wrong though- my advice, get on your back and check it out, should be a pretty easy job (removing the wheel well liner anyways)

1105 · Jul 19, 2004

Theres either 2 or 3 screws on the front side of the liner attaching it to the bumper, and 1 or 2 on the back side attaching it to the side skirts. After that theres just push in clips and then it'll come right out... Might need a little force though.

MLC Stang · Jul 19, 2004

Thanks much all,

Picking up my new EVR tomorrow, will do the install on the weekend. Sounds like it won't be too bad at all.

Appreciate the advice!

RIO5.0 · Jul 19, 2004

I usually just take side cutters and roast those push pins, there a pain to get out....I use Napa alot and they have those carousels with all the clips and pins and chit...pick up a couple bags, 1/4 and 5/16 dia...just in case...
you have 1 biggie on each side of the strut, and 2 down by your side skirts and one like back behind the tire....and the screws as mentioned..I just re-installed mine last week...its tit...

jmoore16 · Jul 20, 2004

Just removed my EVR...

The right hand fender liner is easy to move out of the way to get to the EVR in the fender. I removed my EGR entirely and the car runs without codes or issues.

What I did to remove:
Turn the wheels to the left to gain access to the two apron to fascia screws.
Remove these screws with a short phillips screwdriver.
Jack the car up on the right side until the tire is out of the wheel well.
Jack stand on the right hand side.
Remove the bolt underneath the fascia which attaches the leading lower edge of the apron to the fascia. I think you need a 7mm socket (poor memory)...
Pull the fender out from behind the sheel metal fender starting at the bottom bolt that you just took out. Continue to pull the liner free from the fender until you can easily access the regulator and vacuum reservoir. I found it easier to remove the entire bracket which held two sensors, the EVR and the reservoir first. It is held on by three nuts (about a 9mm deep well socket).

Good luck.

mo_dingo · Jul 20, 2004

Just out of sheer curiousity, why are you replacing the EVR? Are you getting trouble code for it specifically, or what? I've never head of this part. Does it "regulate" how much the egr valve is open/closed?
Scott

MLC Stang · Jul 20, 2004

jmoore16:

Thanks for the detailed disassembly instructions. That will help a lot!

mo_dingo:

I’m replacing my EVR because I got a code 33 – “EGR valve opening not detected”. This code could be caused by three possible components: the EGR valve itself (if the diaphragm leaks), the EVP (EGR valve position sensor, if its resistance was not correct) that screws onto the top of the EGR valve and sends a position signal to the computer, or the EVR (EGR valve vacuum regulator).

I tested all three parts according to the procedures in my Chilton’s manual. The EGR valve and EVP both tested good. The EVR tested bad.

The computer uses the EVR to control how much the EGR valve opens by controlling the amount of vacuum that is applied to the EGR valve diaphragm. The EGR valve should be closed at idle and at WOT, so no vacuum should be applied by the EVR. Starting at just off idle, the EVR should increase the vacuum to the EGR valve in direct proportion to throttle opening up to about 5 or 6 inches of vacuum at about 50% to 75% throttle opening.

I tested mine without having to remove it first like Chilton’s said! I built a little vacuum line adapter to do it with. I did it by adding a 1.5 inch piece of vacuum hose to the end of the EGR valve vacuum connector, putting a “T” fitting in it, and hooking up an 8-foot piece of vacuum hose to that. I then ran the hose across the top of the engine and under the far left corner of the hood so I could shut the hood without pinching off the vacuum hose. Then I connected a vacuum gauge to the end of that hose and dropped the hose and gauge through the driver’s side window into the car.

Then I went for a drive and watched the vacuum gauge for proper readings at idle, part throttle, and WOT. Mine was not reading right, it never got past 2 inches vacuum and dropped off to zero just shortly after getting off idle. Definitely not correct! The EVR was probably leaking air and was definitely bad.

BTW, an EGR system that is not functioning correctly is a definite candidate for causing PINGING problems!

When exhaust gases are re-circulated into the combustion chambers, they SLOW the burn rate since they are inert gases. This means that the computer has to INCREASE spark timing so that the fuel/air/EGR gas mixture completes burning at the proper time for optimum power. According to industry articles that I’ve read the computer will advance the timing about 2 degrees for each 1% of EGR flow, up to a total of 20 degrees of additional advance at 10% EGR flow! So, if your system is NOT re-circulating the correct amount of EGR gases and the computer still advances the timing… you’re gonna ping for sure!

Same thing will happen if your EGR system is sucking in outside air from anywhere that it shouldn’t, e.g. a leaking EGR valve to intake manifold gasket or a leak in the exhaust header to EGR valve transfer tube. Air burns! EGR gasses don’t. The extra air is gonna cause pinging if the computer thinks that it’s all EGR gases and advances the timing.

Just something else to check out if you are having pinging problems.

Inner Fender/Wheel Well Liner Removal

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