Innovate LC-2 Problem

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Mine is an LC2. Got it to work today by following this procedure.

The calibration procedure requires that the oxygen sensor be in free air, this
means removed from the exhaust system completely.
1. With the sensor disconnected, apply power to the LC-2. When power
is applied, the status light will light up green for 2 seconds while the
controller initializes. The status light will then turn red and flash a two
blink sequence indicating an Error 2 condition. This error state
indicates that no sensor is detected. Leave unit powered on for a
minimum of 30 seconds while it is flashing the Error 2.
2. Power down the LC-2 and attach the oxygen sensor to the sensor
cable and the sensor cable to the LC-2. When making these
connections, make sure they are fully seated and locked. Again,
make sure that the sensor is in free air (not in the exhaust).
3. Power up the LC-2. The status light will light up green for 2 seconds
while the system initializes. The status light will then start flashing
green twice a second indicating that the sensor is heating up to it’s
operating temperature. After 30-60 seconds, the status light will flash
green for a series of very quick flashes indicating the sensor
calibration is being performed. Lastly, the light will light up solid
green indicating that the unit is operational and ready to take read
O2 content in the exhaust gas.
 
Am updating this post.
I bought the 14Point7 Spartan 2 & sensor in April 2020, but never installed it.

A couple weeks ago, I notice that the green status light on the LC-2 was not visible.
Took a closer look a couple days ago, & the LC-2 case has "exploded". It still functioned, but the case is no good.
The light pipe was still inside the remaining case along with other plastic bits.
It was mounted inside the car next to the ECU under the dash.
I've seen certain types of plastic do this, no heat, no impact, no nothing. They just swell & crack & split open.
I'm done with this piece of junk.

Installed the Spartan 2. The LED he provides is so dim, can't see it. Put a brighter one (12V) on the front panel of the DIYPNP (MS2).
It seems to be working normally even with the Innovate gauge. Nice to have a gauge if the laptop is not connected. IMG_2139.JPG
 
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Repaired the case with JB Weld. Put a piece of bicycle tube over it all, secured with zip ties.
Bench tested with a 12VDC 50A power supply. O2 sensor clamped in vise. Did free air calibration.
Green status light says "OK", but O2 sensor doesn't get very hot & analog output is unstable.
BTW, this is 1st gen LC-2 which uses Bosch 4.2 sensor instead of updated 4.9 sensor.
 

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Ive been looking at this lc-2 WB controller and the AEM X series WB controller. Ended up buying the AEM unit and wiring the output into my Holley pro dash. Just to monitor the other side. I had an old innovate LM1 dinosaur laying around that I just sold on corral.
 
Am updating this post.
I bought the 14Point7 Spartan 2 & sensor in April 2020, but never installed it.

A couple weeks ago, I notice that the green status light on the LC-2 was not visible.
Took a closer look a couple days ago, & the LC-2 case has "exploded". It still functioned, but the case is no good.
The light pipe was still inside the remaining case along with other plastic bits.
It was mounted inside the car next to the ECU under the dash.
I've seen certain types of plastic do this, no heat, no impact, no nothing. They just swell & crack & split open.
I'm done with this piece of junk.

Installed the Spartan 2. The LED he provides is so dim, can't see it. Put a brighter one (12V) on the front panel of the DIYPNP (MS2).
It seems to be working normally even with the Innovate gauge. Nice to have a gauge if the laptop is not connected. IMG_2139.JPG


Talking of a gauge with no laptop it sounds like you could benefit from a DDEFI dash.
 
I dont blame you. If mine wasnt a POS id keep it.

Have you noticed a difference in AFR with the Spartan? Curious if you had to change your fuel table after switching?
Didn't notice any difference. I made no change to the fuel tables, however, my tune is different from many. I use the MAF for fuel & the MAP for spark. It works great for low load rpm stability & driveability. There are some old threads about it in this sub-forum.

The LC-2 & gauge work on the bench.
 

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