Installation Canton Oil Pan

[geordie]

I tried to install my Canton Oil pan. I used a FelPro gasket, coated each side with Permatex gasket sealant, installed the rubber end pieces, dropped the pan on and torqued the bolts to about 8 in.lbs for the 1/4 UNC and 10 in.lbs for the 5/16 UNC. Result, the gasket extruded and split across about three of four of the 1/4 UNC bolts.

Where am I going wrong guys? Tips and techniques for presed steel oil pan installation please.

 

[krash kendall]

Do your bolts have the gasket width shanks on them to prevent squishing the gasket or are the threads all the way up to the head? How's the rest of the car coming?

 

[geordie]

Thanks for the reply Krash.

They are threaded all the way to the head, ARP stainless. Some of the holes in the pan were deformed by my attempt to fit it, I've since straightened them out. Do I need some kind of spreader washers similar to those on valve covers?

Once I get the pan on, I'll be done with the engine and can turn my attention to the rest of the car, specifically organizing the painting of the bodywork and engine.

I know this is counter to the rest of the country but I'm waiting for the cool weather so that I can work in the garage more comfortably. It's typically 85 deg. F out here in the evening.

 

[12sec67]

same thing happen to me so i went with the later 1990 5.0 one piece blue with metal inserts then i trimmed the ends at the front and rear of the pan to make sure the rubber goes all the way up to contact while being in the groove.

 

[geordie]

same thing happen to me so i went with the later 1990 5.0 one piece blue with metal inserts then i trimmed the ends at the front and rear of the pan to make sure the rubber goes all the way up to contact while being in the groove.

Metal inserts, sounds useful. What do you mean about trimming the ends?

 

[10secgoal]

Some gaskets are wider, too much wider than the timing chain cover at the ends. Makes for a tight fit, or doesn't. Trim the width down a bit to make sure it goes all the way in.

 

[12sec67]

there are the ( U ) shape part of the gasket that are on the gasket that go under front to the bottom of the timing chain and the rear main seal- when you stick those in place sometimes the points are too long and don't alow the gasket to seal tight to those areas (timing chain- main) so you need to trim them or cut the (U) off completly and use RTV in the front and rear... which is the way of 10SECGOAL here on stangnet.

did that help...?

 

[12sec67]

Some gaskets are wider, too much wider than the timing chain cover at the ends. Makes for a tight fit, or doesn't. Trim the width down a bit to make sure it goes all the way in.

just was talking about you!

 

[geordie]

Prior to starting this thread I just bought a new conventional FelPro fiber gasket, so I guess I would like to have another go at using one of these before I go for the 5.0 piece.

Is it worth doing this or is the 5.0 gasket so superior that I shouldn't waste my time with the fiber one.

If the fiber one is still a viable option what is the best method of using it to avoid it flaring and splitting? Does gasket sealant make it more likely to split?

 

[12sec67]

I'd go with the newer gasket with the metal inserts -- RTV works well just don't over do it

 

[geordie]

Thanks 12sec67. Who makes the new gasket and do you have a part number handy?

 

[302 coupe]

fel pro makes it. You can get it at any parts store, just tell 'em you need an oil pan gasket for a 1993 mustang 5.0.

 

[Edbert]

same thing happen to me so i went with the later 1990 5.0 one piece blue with metal inserts then i trimmed the ends at the front and rear of the pan to make sure the rubber goes all the way up to contact while being in the groove.

Of all the aftermarket or late model parts I've added this one is among the best. I strongly recommmend them to any classic owner!