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Installed BBK 70mm T/B now idle hangs???

  • Thread starter Thread starter juiced_94gt
  • Start date Start date Nov 23, 2005

juiced_94gt

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
1,143
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36
Southern California
Nov 23, 2005
#1
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #1
Well today i installed a bbk 70mm t/b, it came with new sensors but when i fired her up, the idle is at like 1000 rpm's and when i drive it, it pulls good but when im coming to a stop, the idle hangs at like 1600 rpm's and finally drop's to like 1000 again, it's steady there but isn't kinda high? before it was at 600rpm's oh and the idle control screw is closed all the way because i cant screw it tighter, my mods are: 94-95 unported cobra intake, 70mm t/b, pro-m 75mm mass air (for 19 ponders), mac cold air intake. Any help would be appreciated, thank's in advance.

Mario.
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Nov 23, 2005
#2
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #2
was the one you adjusted on the side with all the linkage? try turning the other one in too
 

juiced_94gt

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
1,143
0
36
Southern California
Nov 23, 2005
#3
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #3
no i adjusted the idle crew on the top of the t/b not the stop bolt for the linkage
 

Guero

Active Member
Oct 11, 2005
2,148
0
47
Nov 23, 2005
#4
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #4
do you need a new sensors when istalling the new throttle body?
 

94GTLaserRC

Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my
15 Year Member
May 7, 2002
11,178
13
89
Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
Nov 23, 2005
#5
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #5
SHouldve listened to Mike and put in a 75mm one
RC
 

R.J.

Member
Aug 20, 2003
813
0
16
Warwick, Rhode Island
Nov 24, 2005
#6
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #6
TRY ADJUSTING YOUR IDLE LIKE THIS.
Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
 
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