Installed O/R H...Wont stay started...WTF???

95.0Stang

Member
Feb 20, 2003
538
1
18
Kansas
Hey,

Just installed an O/R H-pipe on my 94 GT, and the thing will not stay running... well not ALL the time, when I first start the car it runs fine, and idles fine right between 800-900rpms, then I drive it, and the first thing it does is stop at the first stop sign, WTF is going on???

I brought the car home, and disconected the battery for about 5-7 minutes, and thought that would help for some reason...no such luck, I have to sit at stop lights and kind of rev the motor to keep the car running...WHY?

What confuses me is that I did this same mod on a 95 GT I had about 3 years ago, and never had this problem...:shrug:

Help!

And I have tightened the nuts as much as possible, how do I get rid if two tiny exhasut leaks??? Would air tools help?

Jared
 
Hey,

Just installed an O/R H-pipe on my 94 GT, and the thing will not stay running... well not ALL the time, when I first start the car it runs fine, and idles fine right between 800-900rpms, then I drive it, and the first thing it does is stop at the first stop sign, WTF is going on???

I brought the car home, and disconected the battery for about 5-7 minutes, and thought that would help for some reason...no such luck, I have to sit at stop lights and kind of rev the motor to keep the car running...WHY?

What confuses me is that I did this same mod on a 95 GT I had about 3 years ago, and never had this problem...:shrug:

Help!

And I have tightened the nuts as much as possible, how do I get rid if two tiny exhasut leaks??? Would air tools help?

Jared

An exhaust leak wouldn't cause that...sounds like you forgot to plug in your o2's or forgot about them completely, they jump into play like 2 minutes after you start the car.
 
VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. You noted an issue when coming to a stop. The VSS works with the computer and IAC to create a rolling idle around 1200 RPM to help prevent stalling.
 
I guess I need a picture...got one handy?

Its on the side of the trans near the back ... You can't miss it :D

Just look to see if you got a plug on the trans that don't got a a wire on it :nice:

or

Just look to see if you got a dangling plug thats not hooked up to something :nice:

btw ... This thread in N O T worthless just because it ain't got no pics :nono:

Pics ... Pics ... Pics ... :shrug:

Just get under there and put the two of em together :crazy:

Grady
 
I have loosenend and reinstalled everything so far and to no avail. I checked the intake and one of the bands I took loose to unhook the egr was loose. thought that would be the fix. tightened everything back up, unhooked the battery for 10 minutes to let the computer reset, and I am still dying?:shrug: :shrug:

Come on :SNSign: help me out here, I can not seem to figure this out at all!!!:bang:
 
What happens if you let the car idle for 5-10 minutes.... does it jsut keep idling or does it die on you?

I am thinking that if the cats were pretty much dead then they were giving a lot of backpressure that you do not have now. This could be a problem for the computer to learn....

As for the exhaust leaks... welcome to the club. First make sure visually you are well alighned.... then What I have found that works pretty well is to get the exhaust hot and re-tighten the bolts HOT... Usually takes a few times but has worked for me pretty well. I actually gotta re-do this again...
 
Jared

The prob has to be with something you messed with while doing this
recent project ;)

Go back and check EVERYTHING you messed with to see if something
is not like it should be :D

Exhaust leaks around those ball & socket joints can sometimes be
caused from not keeping the bracket even as you tighten it up
causing more pressure on one side of the connection than the other.

Sounds like something to do with when you go into closed loop :)

If it is something along these lines ... Seems like you would
generate some codes :shrug:

Can you use a multi meter to check and see if you got good
activity with each O2?

Grady
 
def. sounds like you have some exhaust leaks, which are bringing in air that is then read by the o2's and messes up your idle because the computer thinks your running lean and then compensated for it. keep messing with the header to h-pipe flange until that leak goes away, and make sure you didnt strip out a bolt or anything because those things are extremly rusty.
 
Did you ever remove your induction tubing/MAF? When I installed my headers and h-pipe, I yanked the air pump and had to pull the induction out. If you forgot to reconnect the maf/iat harness that could cause the problem, especially if you have other modes (i.e. after-market cam).

Even if you have exhaust leaks, they would just drive the system rich, they shouldn't cause your car to stall. (Stock closed loop fuel system typically only allow +/- 20% correction, which isn't going to flood out the engine regardless of a huge leak.)

I would suggest checking all sensor connections like Grady reccomended - TPS, MAF, IAT, ECT, IAC, O2's, etc.. If everything is cool, you might look at your IAC motor itself. If the car has a lot of miles and the cats were partially plugged, the IAC could have been operating in a different position than where it's at now, and the lower opening position is partially plugged. You could clean it out, or take the chance on installing a new one.

My car ran fine after the headers and O/R H-pipe install with one exception; the car repeatedly goes into stall saver mode when the A/C kick on. Every time the compressor engages at idle, the rpm drops down to about 500rpm, the compressor disengages, and then the engine flares just over 1,000. Cruising there's no issue. I rarely use it, so I haven't looked into fixing it yet. I suspect that it might have something to do with the change in load after removing the smog pump, or that I capped off the EGR tube at both ends.

Good luck man!