Installing TCP export brace


Founding Member
Feb 14, 2001
Fresno, Cali
Im getting my export brace today. I want to try and install it tonight and i was wondering if there are any tricks to installing this piece. I already installed my Street or Track quick release montecarlo bar and found out that my fenders where saging in about an inch and a half. So I know this install my be somewaht of a punk to do. So if you guys have any helpful advice all is appreciated.
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The export brace has threaded ends which should allow you to shorten the assembly and the spread your towers apart; the process will be much easier if you go out now and jack your car up by the engine crossmember,(the large bar that runs under your oil pan and connects to each side of the subframe), thus relaking the structure. Jack it up in the center of the oil pan and let it sit for awhile. Disconnect your current braces first. Don't ask me what the correct measurement is because nobody has ever come up with it to my knowledge and if they did, I might consider them a prophet or holy man of some sort. If this process changes your specs., (and it probably will), you may need to get your frt. end realigned.
From past experience and from what others have posted, let it rest jacked up overnight. Even doing that may not make the install easy.

If, after it sets for a while, you still can not get the brace on, cut a 2x4 about 1/2" longer than the distance between the shock towers and drive the 2x4 between them.
Maxamil said:
...any tricks to installing this piece. I already installed my Street or Track quick release montecarlo bar and found out that my fenders where saging in about an inch and a half.

If you already have your monte carlo bar installed then you're pretty close to a somewhat correct dimension. You shouldn't have to jack up your car to install our export brace. The adjustable length is for installations such as yours, when everything isn't exactly where it was 35 years ago.

An inch and a half sounds like a long ways to be out. You should make a very through inspection of your chassis. If the underside of your car isn't very clean you may even want to pressure wash it to remove any dirt. Look for broken welds, stress cracks or rust. Hopefully you don't find anything but that dimension seems kinda suspicious. Out of the cars passing through the shop, I've only seen that dimension vary by about a half inch total.


Do I reallly have to install the firewall brace (part# TB-006) ??? I dont feel like climbing under my dashboard to install this thing. And you where right it was more like a half inch. The guys at my shope like to exaderate.

And another question on the install. In the directions it says " Using the 13 1/4" rod with attached rod ends, bolt one end to the underside of the firewall bracket." When in all of your guys install pics it shows you guys have it mounted on the top side of the firewall bracket. Which way does it properly go?
Maxamil said:
Do I reallly have to install the firewall brace (part# TB-006) ??? I dont feel like climbing under my dashboard to install this thing.

The support plate sandwiches the firewall and helps to spread some of the load. It really is the better way to do it. I think a 12 pack and a fellow gear head :cheers: with flashlight in hand to do the dirty work should do the trick. Make sure you are clear of any wiring before drilling. Something that would make this a bit easier is the use of "rivnuts" on the support plate. If you're not familiar with them, its a threaded insert that can be used on sheet metal. A few of these on the support bracket so you don't have to hassle with washers and nuts would make life easier. We use these things all over the racecar and they're great!


...bolt one end to the underside of the firewall bracket

The underside position puts the load more in line with the firewall bracket but the difference isn't a great concern. I vaguely recall an installation that required the rod to be on top to clear a breather or fitting or something but if you have room you can go either way. Personally I like to have all the rod ends sitting on top of the brackets just 'cause it looks better. :nice:
I'll add my two cents to the "easy job" side. With the adjustable setup, there's no need to jack up the car. I would definitely strongly suggest you use the support plate, otherwise you'll put all the pressure on a small section of the firewall. Either it will flex (negating the benefit of the brace) or your firewall will tear (also negating the benefit of the brace, plus the damage that will do!).

How do you like the Street or Track brace? Looks really nice and it is a snap to remove (disclaimer: a good friend of mine designed it). I'm still trying to convince him to do the export brace as well...

I talked to Bill at street or track abotu the export brace. They have one and the reason they are not selling it is that he said that its very expensive to reporduce and he dosent want us to think we are being ripped off like TPC did with the whole mustangs plus thing.

As for the export brace my app is the first one that will NOT be quick release. I had to get a bottle jack and jack up my car by the cross member and jack my fenders apart just to get it in. I told Bill about this and he said im the first one that has had this problem. My car is an everyday driver and so far I have noticed a big difference in cornering and overall ride quality has increased. Im not beat up as bad as i usually am, my suspension is very brutal on city streets.
I am finding it interesting that people are saying these cars should not be off much. Most anyone I know with these cars say the towers settle and need to be relaxed before getting the export brace on. My car specifically has settled towards the fire wall a bit. The width seems ok though.
An inch and a half? Holy **** batman, youve got bigger isues to contend with than a monte carlo bar not fitting. Id scrutinize every inch of that front end looking for cracks and signs of falling apart. Sure they all setlle some but IMO thats HUGE.