Installing the following on my car, what else will i need?

Morales

New Member
Apr 29, 2005
136
0
0
Miami, FL
Hi guys,

First time Stang owner here. I picked up a 92 notch about 4 weeks ago. It's pretty stock except for underdrive pullies and a K&N Conical filter.

Anyway, I've ordered the following.

Mac Equal Length Headers

Mac Off-Road X-Pipe

Mac Catback

as far as the headers and X pipe go, will i need anything else? will the stock o2's and all that jazz just connect right up to the Mac Stuff? im new to this and would like some advice.

Also, as far as CAI's are concerned i've noticed some are free standing if you will and some go inside the fender wall, which is better if any? or are they all the same. There's a bot a 10 - 20 dollar difference in price between the freestanding CAI's and the FenderWall units..


Thanks in Advance
 
You want a fenderwell cold air kit, if any at all. The stock unit works pretty damn good.. but a cold air kit should help your car breath in the heat as you have the conical filter sucking up all that hot air off the exhaust right now!!

Your o2 sensors should work just fine as long as your headers are shorties, if longtubes then you may need to relocate and/or extend the o2 sensor harness.
 
Mavrick said:
You want a fenderwell cold air kit, if any at all. The stock unit works pretty damn good.. but a cold air kit should help your car breath in the heat as you have the conical filter sucking up all that hot air off the exhaust right now!!

Your o2 sensors should work just fine as long as your headers are shorties, if longtubes then you may need to relocate and/or extend the o2 sensor harness.


Yes they are shorties... and I was aiming for the Fender CAI. Thanks for the quick response. Nice car color btw, mine's a Calypso Green too ! :)
 
The 02 sensors will bolt up but if they have never been changed, now is the time to do it. Soak all those bolts with PB-Blaster or something similar to help break them loose. You might have to stretch the 02 sensor wires a little bit, but you can buy extensions also.

You will hear mixed opinions on the CAI kit's. Some say the heat from the engine will affect performance so go with the fenderwell kit. I have the fenderwell kit and don't have any problems, but I had the K&N kit that sat inside of the engine bay and didn't have any problems either.

Good luck!

Tim
 
How many new 02 Senors will I need? and where can I buy them? The guy that owned the car previously started to neglect it and I found a lot of basic things wrong with it.. I doubt he's ever even changed the 02's
 
Morales said:
How many new 02 Senors will I need? and where can I buy them? The guy that owned the car previously started to neglect it and I found a lot of basic things wrong with it.. I doubt he's ever even changed the 02's

The two O2 sensors you will need can be bought from any good auto parts store.

Equal length header tend to melt spark plug wires. You need heat shield boots on the plug wires or some very creative wire routing to keep this from happening. They are also harder to install than regular shorty headers. The power difference is supposedly only 2-5 HP less for regular shorty headers compared to equal lenghts.

The MAC headers have individual flanges for the exhaust ports. This can make for installation problems, especially if you run them and re-install them. The headers get hot and warp, and the flanges are very difficult to get bolted back up. I try to stay away from MAC products since my MAC cat H pipe didn't fit well with my Tremec 3550. Some guys here have had other problems with MAC products as well. FMS or BBK make good headers with a single piece flange and are better quality.

If you live in an area that has smog inspection, forget about passing without cats if the inspector is completely legitmate. You won't pass the visual without the cats.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says since you don't know the car's history or engine condition firsthand.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

Plan on spending about $100 for new plugs, rotror, cap, spark plug wires, and fuel filter (an often neglected item).
 
jrichker said:
The two O2 sensors you will need can be bought from any good auto parts store.

Equal length header tend to melt spark plug wires. You need heat shield boots on the plug wires or some very creative wire routing to keep this from happening. They are also harder to install than regular shorty headers. The power difference is supposedly only 2-5 HP less for regular shorty headers compared to equal lenghts.

The MAC headers have individual flanges for the exhaust ports. This can make for installation problems, especially if you run them and re-install them. The headers get hot and warp, and the flanges are very difficult to get bolted back up. I try to stay away from MAC products since my MAC cat H pipe didn't fit well with my Tremec 3550. Some guys here have had other problems with MAC products as well. FMS or BBK make good headers with a single piece flange and are better quality.

If you live in an area that has smog inspection, forget about passing without cats if the inspector is completely legitmate. You won't pass the visual without the cats.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says since you don't know the car's history or engine condition firsthand.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

Plan on spending about $100 for new plugs, rotror, cap, spark plug wires, and fuel filter (an often neglected item).


Awesome advice man! thanks! where is the fuel filter located on these cars? is it in the tank? or outside of it?

thanks