Installing the following on my car, what else will i need?

Mavrick said:

You want a fenderwell cold air kit, if any at all. The stock unit works pretty damn good.. but a cold air kit should help your car breath in the heat as you have the conical filter sucking up all that hot air off the exhaust right now!!

Your o2 sensors should work just fine as long as your headers are shorties, if longtubes then you may need to relocate and/or extend the o2 sensor harness.

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jrichker said:

The two O2 sensors you will need can be bought from any good auto parts store.

Equal length header tend to melt spark plug wires. You need heat shield boots on the plug wires or some very creative wire routing to keep this from happening. They are also harder to install than regular shorty headers. The power difference is supposedly only 2-5 HP less for regular shorty headers compared to equal lenghts.

The MAC headers have individual flanges for the exhaust ports. This can make for installation problems, especially if you run them and re-install them. The headers get hot and warp, and the flanges are very difficult to get bolted back up. I try to stay away from MAC products since my MAC cat H pipe didn't fit well with my Tremec 3550. Some guys here have had other problems with MAC products as well. FMS or BBK make good headers with a single piece flange and are better quality.

If you live in an area that has smog inspection, forget about passing without cats if the inspector is completely legitmate. You won't pass the visual without the cats.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says since you don't know the car's history or engine condition firsthand.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

Plan on spending about $100 for new plugs, rotror, cap, spark plug wires, and fuel filter (an often neglected item).

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