Intake Install Hurdles/setbacks HELP!!

jmuva44

jmuva44

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
1,338
0
36
Richmond, VA
#1
I am in the middle of an intake install and my dad has decided to ditch me. I can do it myself but I may need a little help getting over the speedbumps along the way. As of right now I am labeling everything and taking pictures of it all to make sure that I can get everything back the way its sposed to be.

A couple of questions that I have right now are:

1) Can I start the car without radiator fluid in it? I need to start it to release the fuel pressure and I've already emptied the radiator.

2) What is the easiest way, if there is one, to get the engine at TDC so that I can yank out the distributor?

3) Looking at the throttle linkage I cant tell how you get it off the throttle body. I dont see any bolts, screws or nuts keeping it on. How do you go about removing that?

These are all the questions that I have now. BTW....I tried removing the studs on the upper/elbow with the double nutting suggestion. Worked like a charm. Thanks!!

Chris
 
#2
jmuva44 said:
I am in the middle of an intake install and my dad has decided to ditch me. I can do it myself but I may need a little help getting over the speedbumps along the way. As of right now I am labeling everything and taking pictures of it all to make sure that I can get everything back the way its sposed to be.

A couple of questions that I have right now are:

1) Can I start the car without radiator fluid in it? I need to start it to release the fuel pressure and I've already emptied the radiator.

2) What is the easiest way, if there is one, to get the engine at TDC so that I can yank out the distributor?

3) Looking at the throttle linkage I cant tell how you get it off the throttle body. I dont see any bolts, screws or nuts keeping it on. How do you go about removing that?

These are all the questions that I have now. BTW....I tried removing the studs on the upper/elbow with the double nutting suggestion. Worked like a charm. Thanks!!

Chris
Click to expand...

you dont need to start the car....go to the trunk and unplug the harness from the fuel cutoff switch....left side of the trunk(looking from the back of the car) behind the tailight....just unplug that and you should be good to go.....there may be some fuel in the rails but just have a rag handy for when you pull them out...

....TDC...turn the motor over by hand with a big ratchet and a socket(dont remember size off the top of my head sorry)....assuming your timing is right (and stock)...you can turn it over till the either the rotor is perfectly lined up with the #1 spark plug on the cap or till the 10* mark is lined up with the timing pointer....my timing was off so Andy (RIO 5.0) gave me a nice way to do it....pull the plug from cylinder #1....and have someone turn the motor over by hand....shine a little flashlight down the hole and keep a finger down by the hole...you will see the piston begin to get closer and closer....and then air will piss out of the spark plug hole when it reaches TDC.....


Throttle...the spring comes off the TB easy...just take it out of the hole(dont loose it...i put it down and had a hell of a time finding it again :bang: )
honestly im drawing a blank on the linkage...i dont wanna give you wrong info here...ill check tomorrow morning and get back to you unless someone else does...i know its real easy and maybe thats why i cant remember exactly how....


Anything else feel free to ask....i fairly recently did a manifold install so i remember most of it...and many of the guys here have done it more than once.....


Anthony
 
#3
1)yes for a very short time only you can also press the schrader valve to release the fuel pressure.
2)Just mark were the rotor is pointing and put it back in the same spot when done.
3)the throttle linkage is just hooked on the tb I usually twist the throttle to full open and unhook the cable, the cruz is just a snap fitting so just pop it off.
 
#4
Jerry Leaming said:
1)yes for a very short time only you can also press the schrader valve to release the fuel pressure.
2)Just mark were the rotor is pointing and put it back in the same spot when done.
3)the throttle linkage is just hooked on the tb I usually twist the throttle to full open and unhook the cable, the cruz is just a snap fitting so just pop it off.
Click to expand...
yeah i should have mentioned...you dont NEED it to be a TDC to do it....as long as you mark everything....but i HIGHLY reccomend checking your timing with a light after....cuz i thought mine went in right....boy was i wrong...i finally recently got around to setting it right....car is a different beast now....


Anthony
 
#6
Its the valve on the fuel rail on the passenger side. There shouldnt be anymore pressure in the fuel system after a hour or so of being turned off...pop the fuel door open and undo the cap for a little while if you want. I use my fuel pressure gauge to release the pressure on my car...
 
#7
You dont need to put the engine on TDC to yank the distributor. Just mark where the rotor is pointing at in relation to the cap's mounting base, then mark where the distributor housing meets the block. Just 2 marks and yank it, simple as that! When you go to install it just play around with the rotor until it slips back in place. Make sure the rotor is pointing at the mark on the cap's mounting base and make sure the mark on the distributor housing aligns with the mark on the block. You may have to pull the distributor a few times and move the rotor one way or another to get the marks to align.

I dont even put the engine on TDC when I strip it to the shortblock. I just yank it, remove the lower intake, then reinstall the distributor. After that I can move the engine all I like when putting the rockers on and not have to worry about the timing being off. Last time I stripped my engine to the shortblock my timing was dead on when I restarted it. I was feeling pretty good about that. :D
 
#8
S/CBlack95GT said:
You dont need to put the engine on TDC to yank the distributor. Just mark where the rotor is pointing at in relation to the cap's mounting base, then mark where the distributor housing meets the block. Just 2 marks and yank it, simple as that! When you go to install it just play around with the rotor until it slips back in place. Make sure the rotor is pointing at the mark on the cap's mounting base and make sure the mark on the distributor housing aligns with the mark on the block. You may have to pull the distributor a few times and move the rotor one way or another to get the marks to align.

I dont even put the engine on TDC when I strip it to the shortblock. I just yank it, remove the lower intake, then reinstall the distributor. After that I can move the engine all I like when putting the rockers on and not have to worry about the timing being off. Last time I stripped my engine to the shortblock my timing was dead on when I restarted it. I was feeling pretty good about that. :D
Click to expand...
yeah i know you dont....but he asked....so i told him....


Anthony
 
#12
Update:

Got the upper off.

Need help with two things:


Trying to remove the EGR nut, I busted the pipe just above the header. What is involved in just doing away with the EGR? Just plug up the header and get a plate to seal up the elbow of the new intake?

47602PDR_0090.gif



Also, how do you remove the fitting this fitting that is holds the ECT sensor just above the thermostat housing?


47602PDR_0089.gif


Thanksyou!
Chris
 
#13
Chris, you can fix the egr problem with a couple of pennies...put one in each end of the nuts you took off, making a cap out of it. One that attaches to the headers, and one that attaches to the valve itself. This is a quick fix.

The other one you just unscrew the nut that holds it on. It threads into the lower. Kind of a pain but it will come off. The nut is under the ect sensor (looks like brass color). The heater pipes and ect stay in place as you unscrew it.

Hope this helps out.
 
#14
Thanks riff.....i got that second problem fixed. I'm not sure what you mean by the penny thing tho? Do you unscrew the nut from the header and then place the pennies in? And how do the pennies stay in place? Never heard of this before.
 
#16
I've seen different opinions on whether or not to use silicone on the head/lower gaskets. The Felpro instructions say to leave it dry. Only to put a dab at the corners of the rubber pieces. Then I've heard people say to silicone it real well. Any opinions? Thats the stage I'm at now.

Again, thanks.....
 
#19
I have same problem , my mechanic who installed LTs two months ago broke EGR tube , how I can fixed that , right now I have EGR nuts on both side of tube , so no air comming thru , can I delete EGR , whole thing or ???????
 
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