Interesting problem...car dies.

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
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Arkansas
Well this is kind of hard to explain but I will try my best.

Three things:

1. It doesn't seem to matter whether the clutch is in or out.

2. It dies at idle/neutral type speeds sometimes.

3. The car feels like it is bogging and the car will not go anywhere and has an "engine braking" feeling right off idle.

I was actually just cruising along at 60mph (2,000rpm) and the car gave that engine braking feeling real quick and then "relaxed" and did fine...out of nowhere.

I cleaned the IAB (IAC) and it seemed to help a little bit...but not much.

Most of the time the bogging occurs (which leads to the car killing itself) is when I drive and put it in 1st gear and cruise along and then stick the clutch in and have the car in "neutral" and when I put it back in gear and reengage the clutch the car gives that engine braking feeling and it has a hesitation and then finally power is applied. It really bothers me :bang:

I know it is a real bland explanation but it is hard to explain...any ideas?

Thanks...:nice:
 
David, any codes?
It almost sounds like you could have an ignition cutout in a couple cylinders (does it feel like hitting a rev limiter - like how it just feels like someone 'knocked the wind out of the motor'?). This might show up as a TFI, PIP or IDM code.

No other great ideas for ya bud. Let me think (I have had this happen on cars before - my description sucked - but I think I know exactly what you mean).

I do also like Mike's idea (more likely than ignition IMHO). I dont think it would be the fuel pump itself, but more likely the electronics. Codes 95 and 96 for that IIRC (and maybe no CEL for those since it is intermittant).

OT: Sorry to take so long on sending that dealie out. P.O. was closed today for mailing - Ill try to get it out Monday. :bang:
 
Thanks guys:nice:

JT, no hurry on that...just get to it when you get to it...very kind of you :)

I guess I need to get codes read. That reminds me...when I have the problem my check engine light goes OFF when it bogs. The check engine light has always been on since I added the h/c/i and never seemed to be hurting anything. But when the engine bogs the check engine light goes off :shrug:

I figure if I ever get codes read that would lead me to the problem;) I'm just too lazy :bang:

I do remember the engine "popped" one time after I applied gas trying to get out of the bogginess. So that could be a lack of fuel:shrug:

Keep them coming...thanks for the responses :)
 
stang22 said:
Timing/ignition related? How good or old is the PIP (HAL) in the dizzy? Module? These may be a long shot, but you can't really rule anything out until you find it. I hope you get it fixed David.

Tim


agreed PIP or module could cause it too ............I am getting stalling with mine but its like 2 times a day , not consistent at all , and I am about to get a new PIP for my distributor and Accel module for mine to try ....
 
I also get a slight near stall, or intermittent stall when depressing the clutch comming to a stop. I blame the cam/computer having issues with each other once in a while. Very often the idle will dip slightly before it catches itself and corrects when stopping. I keep my idle at 850-950 and this gives me the most reliable results...anything lower and the condition worsens..set it any higher and she wants to hang between shifts (rpms).
 
I would just chk the basics first, most importantly chking codes, unless you left something out after your h/c/i, (like smog or something) may cause a light, but a lot of mild h/c/i cars can run w/out the CEL, so the CEL should give you a good idea whats wrong. You could also chk the maf voltage, or if you have your stock maf put that back on, I had similar issues w/a faulty maf ( low voltage @ idle) . Maybe chk for vacuum leaks as well, and the pip are other possibilites.
 
I'm pretty sure I don't have a vaccum leak...

It is late at night (just got in a little while ago) and I can't think but what is the PIP. I know in the morning when I wake up it will be answered and I will feel stupid:)

I would put my stock maf on but I sold it and I also would have to change out the injectors to get it to run right anyways. It didn't start doing it until recently...last couple weeks.

I cleaned out the IAB valve and it helped out the situation...it will catch the low idle before it dies...but it does occassionaly die...but not near as much.

Thanks for the support and tips guys:nice:
 
PIP = Profile Ignition Pickup = Stator = magnetic pick up.

Quick and dirty test for a bad PIP: When a car wont start, check for spark. No spark, use a noid light and check for injector pulsing (there is constant 12 volts to the injector and the puter pulses ground). If neither is there, PIP is a possibility.

I cant remember how high your idle is David. If not too high already, bumping it a hair might be a band-aid (since the IAC cleaning helped a little).

Good luck bud. :nice:
 
HISSIN50 said:
PIP = Profile Ignition Pickup = Stator = magnetic pick up.

Quick and dirty test for a bad PIP: When a car wont start, check for spark. No spark, use a noid light and check for injector pulsing (there is constant 12 volts to the injector and the puter pulses ground). If neither is there, PIP is a possibility.

I cant remember how high your idle is David. If not too high already, bumping it a hair might be a band-aid (since the IAC cleaning helped a little).

Good luck bud. :nice:

Thanks as usual :)

Thanks for the clarification on the PIP...learn something new everyday.

My idle sits around 700-750rpm...but with my bit of an aggressive cam that could be a bit low for it. I may have to try bumping it.

While I'm on the subject of bumping the idle up...my friends 95 Gt keeps idleing way to low...like around 550rpm. So we went to bump the idle up and we didn't know how to turn the screw up. There was no nut to grab or anything. I didn't really want to remove the strut tower brace/throttle body adapter and all to turn it a hair...when I would rather do it while it is idling. Maybe on your sn95 you noticed this or maybe it just his :shrug: What do you think?

The package did come in fine and dandy...thank you:nice: You didn't "botch" it...I've just been busy with my leisurely things like usual. I'll get back with you asap. :cheers:
 
5spd GT said:
Thanks as usual :)

Thanks for the clarification on the PIP...learn something new everyday.

My idle sits around 700-750rpm...but with my bit of an aggressive cam that could be a bit low for it. I may have to try bumping it.

While I'm on the subject of bumping the idle up...my friends 95 Gt keeps idleing way to low...like around 550rpm. So we went to bump the idle up and we didn't know how to turn the screw up. There was no nut to grab or anything. I didn't really want to remove the strut tower brace/throttle body adapter and all to turn it a hair...when I would rather do it while it is idling. Maybe on your sn95 you noticed this or maybe it just his :shrug: What do you think?

The package did come in fine and dandy...thank you:nice: You didn't "botch" it...I've just been busy with my leisurely things like usual. I'll get back with you asap. :cheers:




I like the bumping of your idle - at least it might make the car more driveable right now (though it would be nice to find the issue).

On your friend's '95, did you see a a bolt-shank lookin-deal at the stop screw? Most folks just turn it with pliers. BTW, I hate it when there is no nut to grab. :D

Wait, at the bottom of this page it shows what I am talkin about. I have not had the pleasure of playing with that thing, so I dont have much more info. I can certainly go look at mine if it helps.

Glad to hear the thingie arrived.

Good luck and chat soon David. :nice: