Is CompCams camshaft a good selection for my 393 Stroker?

[wickedmach1]

I would like to hear some of your opinions before I buy. I am going to stroke my 1969 351w to a 393 and put it in my 1970 Mach1. Below are some of the parts that will be used along with the camshaft selection that the CompCams guy told me to go with. I want to convert to a hydraulic camshaft. Does anyone have a engine simulator and would you mind plugging these numbers to see what HP and torque I can expect? I know the simulators are not exact but maybe they can get me in the ballpark. I am looking for a street bruiser with an aggressive sound but not a pain to keep running at idle. I will also be using power disc brakes so vacuum is important. Any suggestions or comments on the build? Please let me know if you need anymore information. Thanks.

CompCams Hydraulic Retrofit Cam Selection = part# 35-427-8 (extreme energy)
Duration @ .050" = 242in/248ex
Valve Lift w/ 1.6 rockers = .576in/.600ex
Lobe = 100 deg

1970 Mustang Mach 1
Baer Disc Brakes Front and Rear
Caltracs Traction Bars
5-Speed Tremec TKO600
3.50 rear gears w/ Detroit TrueTrac Differential
1969 351w block bored to 4.030"
SCAT 393 Forged 4340 Crankshaft
Probe Forged Pistons
Probe Lightweight 4340 Rods
Calculated Compression = 10.3:1
Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake
AFR 205 Cylinder Heads
CompCams Pro Magnum 1.6 Rocker Arms
CompCams Link Style Hydraulic Lifters
Biggs 750 Carburetor
1 3/4" Longtube Headers

 

[Cyclone]

that cam should idle well at 1,000RPM, no problem, Good Cam Choice

 

[dennis112]

From the CC catalog:

35-427-8
HYDRAULIC ROLLER-Street/strip, 9.5:1
compression, intake, headers, 3000+
converter, 4.10+ gears, rough idle.

Lobe=100degrees ???? Should be 110 degrees.

Note the gearing and that it will give a rough idle.

I would expect for you to get around 450hp/435lbs torque or so at the flywheel by using a simulator.

 

[Cyclone]

In my 1966 Mustang I have:

308 CID, AFR 185 Heads (2.02 Intake Valves) Holley 750 HP series Double Pumper,
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake Manifold, Comp Roller Retro-Fit Cam 2.24 @ 50
Advertised 2.84 Duration / 5.36 Lift / 110 degree lobe center

I produce 425 at the fly wheel 348 at the wheels, the cam I have is basically an automatic cam if you ask me, I wish I had went with the bigger cam.

It's just my opinion, I have put 36,000 miles on the engine so far, With No Problems and I drive it every day, it is NOT a garage Queen

 

[brianj5600]

You have a nice list of parts there. For what you will pay for that cam, $255 at Summit, you are close to a custom cam. Don't skimp on a cam. Seems like I saw a similar motor with an FTI cam that made 560 on an engine dyno.

 

[wickedmach1]

Your right, Lobe should = 110 deg

What are realistic HP and torque numbers at the flywheel and rear wheels?

Should I call Ed Curtis and get him to gring a cam for me?

Would you guys do anything different?

Will the combo be good for a street car? Will my power band be around the 3 - 4K RPM mark?

 

[dennis112]

Your combination looks very thought out and should work great on a street/strip car. Note that is is very similar to my current build. With the right cam, you can expect to make decent power up to 7000rpm. I really do not have a "power band" as my 393w has gobs of torque well up to 5k+. Punch it at any speed and it rocks. Torque will not be a problem with your build either. Torque is great in a street car.

I will say that my custom is quite close in advertised specs as the cam you have mentioned.

A custom cam will probably give you a smoother idle and certainly the vacuum to run all your accessories (I was told by my grinder that "vacuum was easy.") Plus it can be tailored to the type of driving that you expect to do. There are several good cam grinders so if you choose to go this route, just be honest to them about your combo and your expectations. Your grinder will probably not ask you what HP/torque you want to make, but more than likely what ET's you want to achieve. That is much more important than any HP guest-i-mates.

 

[Cyclone]

Have someone grind you the specs for a Ford Motorsport X-303 Cam, Tha Cam Spec Would Be PERFECT

 

[rbohm]

i agree with dennis, your combination is well thought out, and should make power to about 6500rpm or so. the idle should be reasonably tame, though it will have some lope to it. your power band will likely be between 2000-5500 rpm, and the torque curve will be broad and fairly flat. as to peak hp, i would say better than 500, with a similar torque number.

 

[D.Hearne]

I will say that my custom is quite close in advertised specs as the cam you have mentioned.

A custom cam will probably give you a smoother idle and certainly the vacuum to run all your accessories (I was told by my grinder that "vacuum was easy.")

Vacuum is easy------they give it a wide lobe separation and less overlap AKA---- it's an EFI grind used with a carb. The Z303 I used in my 331 had no problem with idle or vacuum to the power brakes in my 89 Ranger. Ditto for Ford's last 5.0 roller cam used in all the 94-up trucks and the Explorer/Mountaineer---this is the F4TE roller. Best cam I've ever used with a carb. It's got virtually no overlap, no discernable powerband, goes from idle to 6000 rpms smooth as silk. LSA is 116*. If I didn't tell you the engine in my Ranger now had a carb, you'd swear it was EFI. Let it sit a week in the yard, bump the starter without touching the gas pedal and it fires right off and idles like EFI.

 

[wickedmach1]

Great feedback. I wonder what kind of vacuum I can expect?

Dennis112, are you running power disc brakes? If so, any issues?

What type of ignition and distributor would be best for this combo?

Electric or mechanical fuel pump?

 

[dennis112]

Although I do not have power brakes, I do have 13lbs of vacuum at idle which would be plenty to run the booster and other accessories.