Is it a good idea to reset the PCM when installing a new MAF sensor?

[LaserRed01GT]

Or does it matter?

Is the best way to just unhook the negative battery cable for 15 mins, or is there a PCM fuse on these cars?

 

[jstreet0204]

Stock Maf? If so, then yes it is a good idea, disconnect the negative battery cable and tap the brake pedal a few times and let it set for about 10 or 15 minutes. If it is not another stock maf you will need to do more than just clear the memory.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

Stock Maf? If so, then yes it is a good idea, disconnect the negative battery cable and tap the brake pedal a few times and let it set for about 10 or 15 minutes. If it is not another stock maf you will need to do more than just clear the memory.

Yes, another stock sensor going into my 85mm C&L MAF housing. What does tapping the brake pedal do?

 

[jstreet0204]

Yes, another stock sensor going into my 85mm C&L MAF housing. What does tapping the brake pedal do?

C&L is not the best choice, but to answer your question, tapping the brake bleeds off the capacitors in the eec.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

C&L is not the best choice, but to answer your question, tapping the brake bleeds off the capacitors in the eec.

Why is C&L not the best choice? What do you recommend then?

 

[jstreet0204]

C&L's are notoriusly hard to tune, and will lean the stock fuel curve out. If you are naturally aprirated you most likely do not need to change the MAF. The stock MAF is not a problem until you get to about 350 rwhp. The C&L's ONLY make power by leaning the car out. If you do get to the point where the stock MAF is saturated, then an 90mm Lightning MAF or an SCT MAF is a good choice. Stay away from any maf that calibrates to injectors.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

C&L's are notoriusly hard to tune, and will lean the stock fuel curve out. If you are naturally aprirated you most likely do not need to change the MAF. The stock MAF is not a problem until you get to about 350 rwhp. The C&L's ONLY make power by leaning the car out. If you do get to the point where the stock MAF is saturated, then an 90mm Lightning MAF or an SCT MAF is a good choice. Stay away from any maf that calibrates to injectors.

I am using a stock replacement sensor that is going into a 85mm aluminum C&L housing. I had a nitrous backfire that toasted the stock MAF sensor's elements.

Are you saying the actual C&L MAF sensors are hard to tune, or just the actual flow characteristics of the aluminum C&L MAF housing?

 

[jstreet0204]

I am using a stock replacement sensor that is going into a 85mm aluminum C&L housing. I had a nitrous backfire that toasted the stock MAF sensor's elements.

Are you saying the actual C&L MAF sensors are hard to tune, or just the actual flow characteristics of the aluminum C&L MAF housing?

The c&l housing with the stock sensor is the one that tuners don't like. The MAF is the most critical sensor in the system, it is best to use an oem style MAF. Some have drivability problems with them, and I've never heard of one that didn't need a/f ratio correction when they went to tune it.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

The car was tuned right before I bought it, and the previous owner said the C&L MAF housing had been "considered" into the tune. Before the N20 backfire, the car ran and pulled perfectly all the way to 6,400 RPM's without a hiccup. So I am assuming that the tune was pretty good.

It was tuned by Coastal Dyno.

 

[jstreet0204]

The car was tuned right before I bought it, and the previous owner said the C&L MAF housing had been "considered" into the tune. Before the N20 backfire, the car ran and pulled perfectly all the way to 6,400 RPM's without a hiccup. So I am assuming that the tune was pretty good.

It was tuned by Coastal Dyno.

If he had it on the car when it was tuned it will probably be alright.

 

[LaserRed01GT]

If he had it on the car when it was tuned it will probably be alright.

Ok, that's reassuring. Thanks!