jstreet0204 said:Stock Maf? If so, then yes it is a good idea, disconnect the negative battery cable and tap the brake pedal a few times and let it set for about 10 or 15 minutes. If it is not another stock maf you will need to do more than just clear the memory.
LaserRed01GT said:Yes, another stock sensor going into my 85mm C&L MAF housing. What does tapping the brake pedal do?
jstreet0204 said:C&L is not the best choice, but to answer your question, tapping the brake bleeds off the capacitors in the eec.
jstreet0204 said:C&L's are notoriusly hard to tune, and will lean the stock fuel curve out. If you are naturally aprirated you most likely do not need to change the MAF. The stock MAF is not a problem until you get to about 350 rwhp. The C&L's ONLY make power by leaning the car out. If you do get to the point where the stock MAF is saturated, then an 90mm Lightning MAF or an SCT MAF is a good choice. Stay away from any maf that calibrates to injectors.
LaserRed01GT said:I am using a stock replacement sensor that is going into a 85mm aluminum C&L housing. I had a nitrous backfire that toasted the stock MAF sensor's elements.
Are you saying the actual C&L MAF sensors are hard to tune, or just the actual flow characteristics of the aluminum C&L MAF housing?
LaserRed01GT said:The car was tuned right before I bought it, and the previous owner said the C&L MAF housing had been "considered" into the tune. Before the N20 backfire, the car ran and pulled perfectly all the way to 6,400 RPM's without a hiccup. So I am assuming that the tune was pretty good.
It was tuned by Coastal Dyno.
jstreet0204 said:If he had it on the car when it was tuned it will probably be alright.
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